Jacking the car to bleed brakes

Good Morning all, quick question.
Planning to flush and replace the brake fluid, have everything that's needed but was wondering.....
Is it necessary (or even advantageous) to remove the spare wheel from a D4 to pinpoint the rear centre line lifting point ?,
I've never seen the lift point so not sure of the size of the "slot" (shown in the WSM) for the trolley jack pad to fit in. Its only to avoid having to jack each wheel and placing the stands individually, and making easy access to left & right callipers on each axle, also is it the same at the front centre.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. Mick.

Do you even need to lift the car ?
On my L322 RR I just raised the suspension to Off-Road height & could get to each bleedscrew with the wheels left in place while lying on the floor.
(NB using an axle stand as a safety "stop" each time I went underneath at each corner - just in case of air failure !)

Pawl said:

Do you even need to lift the car ?
On my L322 RR I just raised the suspension to Off-Road height & could get to each bleedscrew with the wheels left in place while lying on the floor.
(NB using an axle stand as a safety "stop" each time I went underneath at each corner - just in case of air failure !)

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TBH I'm surprised that such a modern car can't bleed its own brakes, flipping thing!!

Pawl said:

Do you even need to lift the car ?
On my L322 RR I just raised the suspension to Off-Road height & could get to each bleedscrew with the wheels left in place while lying on the floor.
(NB using an axle stand as a safety "stop" each time I went underneath at each corner - just in case of air failure !)

Click to expand...

That sounds like a simple solution; I hadn't thought about the chassis lifting as well (not a mechy) , then just slip a stand in place as back-up.
I'll give that one a go. Thanks Pawl

Hi @micknkazzyfonce

hope u don’t mind me adding , when I’ve done mine ( D3 ) , I indeed raised the suspension to off road height , then removed fuse F26 in the engine bay , this prevents the suspension from self levelling along with as suggested by @Pawl with regards to using axle stands underneath

also plse ensure that no air enters the master brake cylinder as if air gets into the ABS module diagnostics will then be required

I used one of the brake vacuum kits to replace all my brake fluid

hope that’s of some use and none of the above is trying to teach u how to suck eggs

Almost forgot , brake fluid must be DOT 4 class 6 , I used this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28363301...M2aJMXxZVtEfxEHEtf8NwEjKaLuy|tkp:BFBMzqaJu8Bh

hope that helps

gstuart said:

Hi @micknkazzyfonce

hope u don’t mind me adding , when I’ve done mine ( D3 ) , I indeed raised the suspension to off road height , then removed fuse F26 in the engine bay , this prevents the suspension from self levelling along with as suggested by @Pawl with regards to using axle stands underneath

also plse ensure that no air enters the master brake cylinder as if air gets into the ABS module diagnostics will then be required

I used one of the brake vacuum kits to replace all my brake fluid

hope that’s of some use and none of the above is trying to teach u how to suck eggs

Click to expand...

Hi gstuart.
You can never get too many additional safety tips, a simple fuse removal, plus the off-road height & axle stands, certainly something less to be concerned about.
My intention is; to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir using a "baster" but leaving the two outlets covered, then make a witness mark 20mm above the low fluid level. Refill with the new fluid (I have the DOT 4 full spec as per the owners book).
Connect my Sealey Bleed bottle, (Nr side rear) crack the nipple and, using a well placed mirror, count the peddle depressions needed to reduce the fluid to the mark, then keep refilling until I get crystal clear fluid at the caliper; and move on to the remaining caliper's in the correct sequence.
I bought 2Ltrs to hopefully complete a thorough flush. I am really hoping that by never going below the mark, the ABS module will remain full of nice fresh Brake Fluid.
Since joining Landy Zone, and not being a trained mechanic, I have learned there are an awful lot of egg's you have to learn to suck; before daring to tackle some of the tasks on Land Rovers. As a result, I have saved a fair lump of cash by DIY-ing, top is probably replacing the Auxiliary & Timing belts. Being well & truly retired, maintaining & servicing etc is almost a hobby, 2013 D4 L319 and it runs beautifully.
Many thanks again, to you and all the guy's that have provided help and advice along the way, plus a few "Don't even think about it's"

Nanocom does Disco 4 brake bleeding.
I have a picture of the Nanocom screen for bleeding the brakes but LZ hasn’t fixed the image upload issue.

JUKE179r said:

Nanocom does Disco 4 brake bleeding.
I have a picture of the Nanocom screen for bleeding the brakes but LZ hasn’t fixed the image upload issue.

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Are you on mobile or PC?

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/image-upload-problem-workaround-on-pc.383972/

Unapologetically an iPhone and MacBook Pro user mate.

JUKE179r said:

Unapologetically an iPhone and MacBook Pro user mate.

Click to expand...

Should work on mac, it works fine in Ubuntu

JUKE179r said:

Nanocom does Disco 4 brake bleeding.
I have a picture of the Nanocom screen for bleeding the brakes but LZ hasn’t fixed the image upload issue.

Click to expand...

Hi Duke. Quick question, I've looked at the Nanocom & wondering if you are aware of a unit that is any cheaper than the £550 that will also Bleed the ABS Module on my 2013 D4 3L Diesel sdv6.
I am still not sure if that ABS Bleed is absolutely necessary if there are currently no problems with the braking, (I'm not a mechanic) and I just want to replace the existing brake fluid, so there should be no air to bleed anyway. I read that the brake fluid passes freely through the module under normal braking so I would just need to ensure no air enters the system.
Any advice would be very much appreciated. Mick