I've made a cock up of painting my bulkhead

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GRUNT

GRUNT

Well-Known Member
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Location
On the lake Geneva shoreline.
Well I have. I got some etch primer and sprayed it with that then I got some zinc primer and brush painted it with that, it dint go on very well and left some brushmarks. So I wet and dried it and brush painted it with coach paint. An it looks absoferkinlutely ferkin ****e!!!. Fortunately I've only done the bit behind the dash so it won't matter that much. Any how when I had the paint made up I got a tin of spray paint the same colour to do the niggly bits a brush wouldn't get into, so I sprayed the footwells with this and they look sort of ok but you can still see brush marks from the zinc primer, an I flatted it back before hand.

Any owld how, what do I need to do to get a decent finish with the coachpaint? Who was it that posted pics of theirs a bit back? Would I be better off thinning it down? If I use a roller how do I do the bits a roller can't get to an if I use a brush won't you see the difference between the rollered stuff and the painted stuff?

An I have done a search and seen the site that tells you how to brush paint properly. But in reality the way it tells you to do it dunt work!!!
 
Thin the paint, and borrow a compressor and airbrush ;)

What grade of wet and dry did you use - I would say go with P400 and tickle it with P600 afterwards. Where you brushed painted it, try some self lubricating finishing paper. I had quite good success with the finishing paper stuff when trying to simulate a piano gloss finish on some shelving. Cheapo flat packed pine shelf, stained medium oak and about 5 or 6 coats of clear varnish, each one sanded down with finishing paper before applying the next coat.
 
before you apply any more paint, try digging your thumbnail into the zinc primer and see if it is firmly adhering to the substrate............the reason for the dragging (brush marks) could be incompatible solvents or entrapment.
What brand/type of zinc primer did you use?
 
Why are you using Zinc primer after etch primer?
Click to expand...
Cos I'd wet and dried the etch primer with 800 grade and gone back to bare steel in a few spots, so I brush painted another coat of primer that I happened to have, it's "Davids Zinc182". The primers gone off Ok, the brushpainted coachpaint is still soft but going off the spray paint has gone hard, this is since 6 oclock last night. I've got an air brush but it'll take ferkin ages filling the little bottle, unless I can find a bigger bottle with the same thread to fit the brush. My compressor int up to a proper spraygun an I don't reeely want to start covering everything up in my shed. Thats why I went fer brushpainting it.
 
How doos Grunt, I had a problem with the paint still being soft after puttin it on ( still soft after a week!!!) Gave up and scraped the bloody stuff off. I used a couple of coats of etch primer and a bit of trial and error with thinners and 2k fast hardeners it seemed to have done the job. I used a small 25ltr compressor and a spray gun, it took a wee while to do but came out ok in the end.
 
GRUNT said:
so I brush painted another coat of primer that I happened to have, it's "Davids Zinc182". The primers gone off Ok, the brushpainted coachpaint is still soft but going off the spray paint has gone hard, this is since 6 oclock last night.
Click to expand...

if the same brush was used for zinc primer and the coach paint did you clean it Xylene or sub turps?..........Coach paint dries by a process of oxidisation and will harden over time, but I would have expected it all to be tack free after 8 hours if the bulkhead was inside.
 
Cleaned the brush in thinners. It int tacky it's soft.

IM000061.JPGHere yar then it looks better on a piccie.

IM000062.JPGI've ferked this up as well, I'm gonna cwy. £35 fer a new pipe.
 
bustersbus said:
How doos Grunt, I had a problem with the paint still being soft after puttin it on ( still soft after a week!!!) Gave up and scraped the bloody stuff off. I used a couple of coats of etch primer and a bit of trial and error with thinners and 2k fast hardeners it seemed to have done the job. I used a small 25ltr compressor and a spray gun, it took a wee while to do but came out ok in the end.
Click to expand...

Forgot to say it were a couple o' light coats of etch and then a good coat of phosphate grey primer with thinners
 
right............it's not that bad, if you squint and squeeze your eye lids together.Give it time to harden properly and then rub down with 800 grade paper before touching up.
 
bustersbus said:
Forgot to say it were a couple o' light coats of etch and then a good coat of phosphate grey primer with thinners
Click to expand...
I'm gonna have a go at thinning every thing an spraying it wiv me airbrush.

"it's not that bad, if you squint and squeeze your eye lids together", an turn the lights of an hide it behind a skip. It don't look half as bad in the pic as it reeely is!!!!!
 
GRUNT said:
Wots them then?
Click to expand...

It's summit that sets the paint a bit quicker i think?!!? It certainly helped.When I just used the thinners it still didn't set proper like, so off it came again!!!! Spoke to a couple of painters and they sed they always use thum, and it worked:D Just tryin' to save ye a bit of grief like I had:D
 
bottom line is your paint job's 'fooked'.

Your cocktail of coatings include a large % of Butyl Acetate, Propanol, Xylene, Ethylbenzene, Trimethylbenzene, Disocyanates with a dash of thinners, a combination neither desirable or normally seen together for the home car refinisher.Hence the dragging and delayed going off (brush marks/soft paint)

Applying more paint now will result in the creation of that popular 1970's custom paint job called 'crackle'............you have a couple of options now, strip off and start again or wait till it goes hard and then rub down.
 
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