It must an age thing.

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THE BUDDAH said:
Hi,

Does anyone have an idea?

Once iv'e checked the battery for any power loss after disconnecting the the blue wire on the RF Receiver if i still loose power what could be the next common fault?
Click to expand...

The RF receiver itself which as said can cause the door locks to burn, after that think alternator, fuse box and duff battery self discharging.:eek:
 
Datatek said:
The RF receiver itself which as said can cause the door locks to burn, after that think alternator, fuse box and duff battery self discharging.:eek:
Click to expand...

Hi Datatek,

Thanks for reply, I have new battery fitted and the charge from the alternator is fine.

The Rf Receiver blue wire has been disconnected.

I checked charge on the 7/5/12 reading = 13.3v 25.8a
Then again on the 10/5/12 reading = 12.8v 27.6a

Both readings were taken three times and the car has not been started or moved, it seems strange to me that the figures have changed.
The volts reading has gone down and the amp reading has gone up, shouldn't the red stay the same?
 
Datatek will advise better as he is more versed in such than me....

Causes of Volt drop include:
Ambient Temperature
Electrical Loads (Don't forget the HEVAC unit varies Fan Speed automatically based on internal and external Temperature)
Various ECU activity waking up and sleeping etc.
Radio Volume
EAS Compressor running or not
Brake Hydraulic Booster Pump running or not.
etc etc.

If you want to take comparative Readings, disconnect the battery take Volt Reading recoonect...leave for prescribed amount of time.....disconnect battery read volts again, that will tell you if there is a difference, trying to read it while still connected will give various readings dependant on may conditions....

Obvioulsy you won't get the Amp reading with it disconnected.!!!
 
THE BUDDAH said:
Hi Datatek,

Thanks for reply, I have new battery fitted and the charge from the alternator is fine.

The Rf Receiver blue wire has been disconnected.

I checked charge on the 7/5/12 reading = 13.3v 25.8a
Then again on the 10/5/12 reading = 12.8v 27.6a

Both readings were taken three times and the car has not been started or moved, it seems strange to me that the figures have changed.
The volts reading has gone down and the amp reading has gone up, shouldn't the red stay the same?
Click to expand...

I take it your readings are not with the engine running? The battery will never stay at 13.3v even disconnected, 12.6 to 12.8 would be the max with no charge from the alternator. Left for a week without running the engine expect the voltage to drop to 12.5v or thereabouts
How are you taking the current readings?
Just because the alternator charges, it doesn't mean that it can't also drain your battery when not running. Equally a lot of new batteries seem to be faulty these days.
What voltage do you see at the battery with the engine running?
 
I'll let you know when the new water pump, viscous fan and belt tensioner are all fitted and the cooling system blead. Hopefully this weekend.

If it don't feckin rain too much... Lol
 
I'll let you know when the new water pump, viscous fan and belt tensioner are all fitted and the cooling system blead. Hopefully this weekend.

If it don't feckin rain too much... Lol
 
THE BUDDAH said:
Right,

Car running with the new bits on.
I checked the battery when car was running = 13.8v and 29.8a
Before i ran the car it was 12v and 25.5
Click to expand...

Is that measured on battery or alternator? if its on battery try measure on alt. & body

PS: forget about your second reading whatever that a is
 
THE BUDDAH said:
That was measured from the battery.
How do you measure from the alternator? ill try it.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

On the alternator where the cable attach to alternator body - try negative on battery as well to check for bad cable/connection
if the readings are much higher your cables/connection aint good
 
Last edited:
But, to get Amps to measure in series, and for Volts you measure in parralel...

I.e. Across terminals for Volts and inline for Amps....

Who makes your unit? as I know Fluke et al are clever so maybe they have a unit that can measure both in one configuration.....
 
THE BUDDAH said:
I have two settings on my reader, all i do is flick the switch and i get volts or amps.

easyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy....lol
Click to expand...

do you understand how to measure current and voltage in a circuit ?

and it's not just a matter of flicking a switch BTW
 
Sean said:
do you understand how to measure current and voltage in a circuit ?

and it's not just a matter of flicking a switch BTW
Click to expand...

Just read my battery with the engine running and it was 13.8v.

On my battery reader there are two setting one set to the left and one set to the right. one side there is a "V" and the other side there is an "A".

Its a small hand held battery tester that uses a 9v battery.

I have noticed that after disconnecting the blue wire on the RF receiver the window do not close with the key fob.

Sorry no i don't know about electrics, though you would have guessed....lol
 
Last edited:
THE BUDDAH said:
Just read my battery with the engine running and it was 13.8v.

On my battery reader there are two setting one set to the left and one set to the right. one side there is a "V" and the other side there is an "A".

Its a small hand held battery tester that uses a 9v battery.

I have noticed that after disconnecting the blue wire on the RF receiver the window do not close with the key fob.

Sorry no i don't know about electrics, though you would have guessed....lol
Click to expand...

The window closes with the key fob?
 
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