It got worse and is now broken

no splits thaT I CAN SEE EITHER

ooops

Right, I would be tempted to put in a temporary supply and start rounding down the possibilities.

Clean milk bottle (3 litre would be good), fill it with diesel, undo the lift pump feed pipe and put a wee bit of pipe onto it, the other end in the milk bottle. Disconnect the return line and shove it in the milk bottle too. Tie the bottle into place, start her up and go for a drive. If this works there is a fault somewhere between the sender and the pump in the fuel lines.

Yup-milk bottle test sounds good,will narrow it down a bit

right did the milk bottle test seems to be fine can the sender be faulty ? I reconnected to that and the fault repeated itself

Have you tried blowing the pipes through from the sedimenter back into the tank ?
I've just had a fuelling problem that was a combination of a faulty lift pump and some crud in the pickup pipe. The crud kept blocking off the flow whenever you put the engine under load.

barmatt said:

It could be something as simple as air getting in the system, are you sure when you put the sedimentor back on that the rubber seal didn't twist a little?

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take the fuel filler cap off and see if that helps.

If the vents are choked or it's the wrong cap a vacuum can form in the tank that is enough stop the lift pump from being able to SUCK fuel through.

Leaving it for a minute or two allows air to seep into the tank and she goes again.

This is a CLASSIC problem, all makes, petrol or diesel.

CharlesY

Right time for an update disconnected at the sender extended the hose and dipped it into a can of diesel it ran fine. took the sender out and replaced problem repeated itself. got fed up ****ing about so took the sender out ran a fuel line from the lift pump and dipped it directly in the tank ran fine. putthe new sender in and connected the fuel pipe from the sender to the lift pump runs perfectly I have now permanatly fixed that pipe in place bypassing the original fuel line and the sedimentor. I carry enough spare fuel line and a spare fuel filter so if it cocks up i am confident i can get home

Has this repair lasted?As I now have a ticking from the injector pump,it will dissappear sometimes on tickover,but rev to 1000 or over and it is back-if I stop the engine when ticking it is a sod to start-if I stop engine when not ticking it starts fine-is the thinking air ingress somewhere-or is my pump going home-this has been on and off for a few weeks now,but deffo getting worse-when the ticking stops,the engine runs much smother-I love intermittent faults-help please

undo all injector pipes and see if pumps actually working ,remove front inspection cover 3 x screw and check 3 x 10mm headed pump pulley bolts are tight pumps normally not much trouble but could be especially if its making unusal noise

[JP];1216495 said:

you can test your lift pump before removing it though...

just take the hose that goes from the lift pump to the fuel filter (remove on the fuel filter side), turn the ignition key and you should have fuel shooting off that hose, if its just dripping, you've found your problem

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No you won't. The lift pump is a mechanical pump that operates from the cam shaft when the engine is running. Turning the ignition on won't do anything. The lift pump as a lever underneath that you use when you want to prime the system. Open the vent on the fuel filter and operate the lever, if fuel comes out the pump is working. If the lever is "floppy" turn the engine over then try again, it will only work when the cam is in the right position

Yeah,i have a new lift pump,that is working.This is deffo something with the injector pump-seems it might be pulling air somewhere,for if i stop it when running clackety,then go and bleed filter via lift pump,I get one or two small bubbles out.then restart her and she runs quiet until it goes clackety again-when I get home,going to go thru whole fuel system,to try and find what is letting the air in-I guess the clackety noise is cavitation in the injector pump,with air in there-just hope it hasn't damaged the pump-should have sorted this before

Ran a complete new diesel pipe from sender to fuel pump cable tying to the old one, totally bypassed the sedimentor! That was 12 months ago and works a treat for me

MikeDISCO said:

Ran a complete new diesel pipe from sender to fuel pump cable tying to the old one, totally bypassed the sedimentor! That was 12 months ago and works a treat for me

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That sedimentor thing is a menace, and causes any amount of trouble.
By-passing it isn't entirely easy as the INLET pipe is a 10mm, but the outlet is a size smaller at 8mm.


A simple by-pass could be done using
one 10mm inline connector,
one 8mm inline connector
and some means to join an 8mm to a 10mm.

I wonder if they make a push-fit connector that is 10mm at one end and 8mm at the other?

Anyone?

Don't worry about those connectors - for over 40,000 miles my TD5 Disco has had one in the fuel line to repair where it wore through at the back just ahead of the tank. Common fault, I think it was even a recall job. I fixed it properly. Those connectors are super.

CharlesY

just call your local plumbing supplies place and ask for either a compression or pushfit reducing straight coupler 10mm to 8mm. if they dont have it in stock the willbe able to orderit for you

I

discobill said:

Changed my lift pump last week on the Defender 300TDi thinking I'd sorted my running problems......I was wrong. Ended up taking the fuel line off from the tank to the pump to make sure it was clear of any blockages, that was okay. Next step, removed fuel tank to see if there was any crap in there... looked fine. Removed sender unit and fook me there was a blade of grass about 6" long up the feed pipe.
Removed that and put it all back together and now seems good.

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had a similar problem a few weeks back.....

Lyndon said:

just call your local plumbing supplies place and ask for either a compression or pushfit reducing straight coupler 10mm to 8mm. if they dont have it in stock the willbe able to orderit for you

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The Pushfit reducing straight coupler 10mm to 8mm is EXACTLY what all 300 TDI users need to fit in place of the Goddam Sedimenter. If the pipes are cut cleanly close to the unions, it should be possible simply to push them into the 10mm>>> 8mm straight coupler, and "Bye Bye Sedimenter troubles!"

CharlesY

Well tomorrow subject to snow,going to start with the tank and work forward-might try running the old girl on a bottle of diesel first(lift pump feed in bottle plus return) to see if she runs ok first,at least I'll know it is fixable

biolandy said:

Well tomorrow subject to snow,going to start with the tank and work forward-might try running the old girl on a bottle of diesel first(lift pump feed in bottle plus return) to see if she runs ok first,at least I'll know it is fixable

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Perfect Plan.

After that you know whether to work forwards or backwards, and that alone eliminates half of the potential problems.

Whatever you do, get rid of the sedimenter.

Carry a few spare fuel filters just in case.

CharlesY

Yeah as I run bio,I have plenty of filters on board-just in case