Drove through 2 feet of water, next day, clunking/sputtering when turning left/right slowly?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I’d put my first bit of money on front cv related, due to the noise on turning, if your symptoms are correct.
Check the rubber boots for splits,,or play in the shafts. Take you 20 minutes and zero money to confirm/rule out, then go from there.
 
Freddie17 said:
I’d put my first bit of money on front cv related, due to the noise on turning, if your symptoms are correct.
Check the rubber boots for splits,,or play in the shafts. Take you 20 minutes and zero money to confirm/rule out, then go from there.
Click to expand...
I'll check them all tomorrow, take wheel off, put car in neutral, chock wheels and then check all arms with pry bar and look for stuff not recentering on the bushes or adverse play in shafts and/or split boots?

That make sense?

Thanks Freddie.
 
mantrid said:
One thing though @Stanleysteamer, might be a silly question, but there is a big knuckle at the back of the rear prop shaft, that moves in 4 directions IIRC, could that answer why the clunks only happen on turning, if that part is locking up?
Click to expand...
U/Js are very similar to CV joints, they perform more or less the same function in that they transmit power to another part of a transmission but allow for the flexibility that occurs between the fixed part and the moving part. U'js work between gearboxe,s or in the case of 4x4s between transfer boxes, and axles. CV joints do their work between gearboxes or differentials and wheel hubs, and in the case of the front of the vehicle they have to be able to cope with the fact that the hubs they are supplying power to not only move up and down but they turn from side to side.
This excellent article explains the difference.
 
mantrid said:
I'll check them all tomorrow, take wheel off, put car in neutral, chock wheels and then check all arms with pry bar and look for stuff not recentering on the bushes or adverse play in shafts and/or split boots?

That make sense?

Thanks Freddie.
Click to expand...
You'd be better off jacking up the side near a front wheel so that you can turn the front wheel and locking the gears up so the wheel will not turn the transmission so you can feel and listen for any play when you turn the wheel.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You'd be better off jacking up the side near a front wheel so that you can turn the front wheel and locking the gears up so the wheel will not turn the transmission so you can feel and listen for any play when you turn the wheel.
Click to expand...

Okay, thanks Stanley & also for the link you posted, got axle stands coming today from halfords as I only previously had 2 bottle jacks on gravel/mud which made me too nervous to get under the car, had to go to the industrial estate locally after hours to get under the car, also got some boat grease coming so will grease up the u-joint on the prop shaft once I've finished checking the cv joints on the wheels, not sure if that will help was just going to try it.
 
mantrid said:
Okay, thanks Stanley & also for the link you posted, got axle stands coming today from halfords as I only previously had 2 bottle jacks on gravel/mud which made me too nervous to get under the car, had to go to the industrial estate locally after hours to get under the car, also got some boat grease coming so will grease up the u-joint on the prop shaft once I've finished checking the cv joints on the wheels, not sure if that will help was just going to try it.
Click to expand...
It ought not to be hard to remove the U/J with its flange from the diff flange so you can REALLY test it for play in all directions. You often cannot feel it properly when it is on the car and connected.

You are totally right to only go under a properly supported vehicle, too many people have been maimed or killed by jacks moving or seals in hydraulic jacks failing.
 
okay folks an update, I checked all arms/rods on all 4 wheels no play at all. The OG mechanic ran away because he couldn't figure it out, had another guy out yesterday, he checked the wheels/arms said no probs there, he got under the car as I slowly reversed and turned and the prop shaft judders a bit and the centre part has play in it, but he was flummoxed, as @Stanleysteamer mentioned as to why it only clunks when turning hard left/right. I told him the problem didn't exist until I drove through water at some speed (which would explain the bushing get pulled off on the centre prop shaft) and I asked if there was a possibiity of water getting into the diffs/gearbox oil boxes underneath, perhaps change the oils in those three places as they likely need doing anyway? he's off ordering the centre prop support ring thingy, something I noticed is that when I put the car in park and/or put the parking brake on there is a springing/clicking sound underneath that wasn't there before as far as I know.

also, the last two mot's said play in steering rack so maybe ask the guy to look into that as well?

It's probably something stupid like a loose bolt somewhere ffs, it's driving me crazy!? 😂

thanks so far all and all the best!
 
Last edited:
Update on this guys, took it into a local garage and asked them to diagnose the issue and they came back with a few issues.

Requires steering column lower UJ
Suspected faulty transfer box

They also noted a suspected throttle body and air intake duct/plenum chamber for the oil spilling out onto the engine block below.

They also made note of suspected turbo issue due to the amount of oil in the plenum chamber.

What do you guys think, not sure of cost of replacing the transfer box or labour involved, was going to do the steering UJ and test the throttle body & plenum for leaks first, thinking the UJ may be causing the clunking, they claimed the wheels were way out of alignment also?

@Stanleysteamer @gstuart
 
mantrid said:
Update on this guys, took it into a local garage and asked them to diagnose the issue and they came back with a few issues.

Requires steering column lower UJ
Suspected faulty transfer box

They also noted a suspected throttle body and air intake duct/plenum chamber for the oil spilling out onto the engine block below.

They also made note of suspected turbo issue due to the amount of oil in the plenum chamber.

What do you guys think, not sure of cost of replacing the transfer box or labour involved, was going to do the steering UJ and test the throttle body & plenum for leaks first, thinking the UJ may be causing the clunking, they claimed the wheels were way out of alignment also?

@Stanleysteamer @gstuart
Click to expand...
I'd do the steering U/J and tracking first and go from there.
After you took it for a swim did you check all transmission parts for water entry? The transfer box would have come under that heading. Could have happened if breathers have been displaced at some time in the past.
 
Yep, UJ & tracking first, thank stanley.
I haven't checked the transmission parts, I did ask about changing the oil in the transfer box and they said that there was no leakage, the box was squeeky clean and their thoughts were that if it was letting water in it would have to be leaking oil out and that would have been visible? - I took that as being a reasonable statement, correct me if I'm wrong though, is there anything else with regards to the transmission parts I need to look at?

cheers, stanley.
 
mantrid said:
if it was letting water in it would have to be leaking oil out and that would have been visible?
Click to expand...
A diff breather vents to air - it should not leak oil out.
It is designed to release pressure that builds from the hot air in the box.

If the water level went above the breather, then water could have got in…
 
Freddie17 said:
A diff breather vents to air - it should not leak oil out.
It is designed to release pressure that builds from the hot air in the box.

If the water level went above the breather, then water could have got in…
Click to expand...

Okay then brother, what should I be checking here? - not the transfer box? the differential boxes, front and back if they are at both ends? - thanks Freddie.
 
mantrid said:
Okay then brother, what should I be checking here? - not the transfer box? the differential boxes, front and back if they are at both ends? - thanks Freddie.
Click to expand...
Yes do all of them. Just undo the filler plug and see what is in there.
I don't know the D4 so @gstuart will be better to tell you what to check and how.
Even if you find all is well, you will have done no harm. One or more may need topping up anyway, if you can, check all breathers.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Yes do all of them. Just undo the filler plug and see what is in there.
I don't know the D4 so @gstuart will be better to tell you what to check and how.
Even if you find all is well, you will have done no harm. One or more may need topping up anyway, if you can, check all breathers.
Click to expand...

Okay, so I guess put a diptick in there to check the colour of the oil, see if its creamy as opposed to black, if so water?
As for the breathers where are they and how do I check them?
Sorry for the daft questions!
 
mantrid said:
Okay, so I guess put a diptick in there to check the colour of the oil, see if its creamy as opposed to black, if so water?
As for the breathers where are they and how do I check them?
Sorry for the daft questions!
Click to expand...
Every time i have taken a level plug out, if it is up to level or higher, it simple trickles or flows out!
If you need to mess about with bits of stick, they are too low.
As for all of this especailly the breathers just wait till @gstuart comes on as he will know.;)
 
mantrid said:
As for the breathers where are they and how do I check them?
Click to expand...
the one circled with red is the TC breather tube, if you can reach it undo it and blow it with compressed air

sorry, never mind , that's nt for D4 :mad:
 

Attachments

  • 1732830936926.png
    1732830936926.png
    391.4 KB · Views: 12
mantrid said:
Okay, so I guess put a diptick in there to check the colour of the oil, see if its creamy as opposed to black, if so water?
As for the breathers where are they and how do I check them?
Sorry for the daft questions!
Click to expand...

Hi

Will see what I can find for u , I think some are tucked on the back of the bulkhead

One u have to be careful is the front diff breather as it can block up and cause issues with the diff seals leaking

I done mine and had some spare pipe so extended it along with fitting the upgraded breather on the end , being a later model it might have already been done , it’s located on the RH side as u look at the engine by the expansion bottle

Found the part number as well for u

Leave it with me and will search through the many bookmarks that I have
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3561.jpeg
    IMG_3561.jpeg
    272.7 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_3560.png
    IMG_3560.png
    3 MB · Views: 7
Picture of the old front axle breather pipe , ur also can tell if its blocked as u open ur axle fill plug as it will be pressurised as u take the plug out

Hope that helps
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3563.jpeg
    IMG_3563.jpeg
    165.6 KB · Views: 8
Here’s the breather pipe from the gearbox, I’m pretty sure the TC also comes up by the back of the bulkhead , there hooked shaped on the ends
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3564.jpeg
    IMG_3564.jpeg
    164.8 KB · Views: 8
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

MAF Diver
Disco 2 Steering wheel noise when turning left and stationary-ish — changing PAS and hose did not fix
Replies
3
Views
738
MAF Diver
MAF Diver
G
Disco 3 (LR3) Having a nightmare Discovery 3 (2007)
Replies
17
Views
1K
gawjie
G
F
Disco 3 (LR3) Dreaded Limp Mode - Suggestions?
Replies
13
Views
1K
ffisher
F
D
1999 Td5 running roughly...
Replies
3
Views
619
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
I
Disco 2 D2 water leaks
2
Replies
33
Views
3K
jamesDiscoTD5
jamesDiscoTD5
Back
Top