Is this hole as bad as it seems!

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ProjectX said:
but the chassis looks really very good...
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Ok, I'll see your "very good", and raise you....

20190527_155948.jpg


Couldn't resist ;)

I'd be getting fertan all over that ASAP... Linseed or Coroless internally......:)
 
Just get some engine oil inside it! I tried linseed oil years ago, and although it did work, I think engine oil would be better, linseed oil dries hard, engine oil wont.

That oil leak, thats not good, and that bulkhead will need some welding done to it, the rot around the bonnet hinge is a disaster waiting to happen, dont use filler on that!

Replaced 6 years ago? With a second hand or new one?

I dont think that vehicle is ''as described'' , did it come from a dealer?
 
Yes that bonnet hinge rot looks familiar, I can now appreciate why one of my ones has been replaced, you wouldn't want that coming off through lack of metal to hold in place!
 
Don't use filler, it will all have to be welded sooner or later and its just more work to get it off. Filler over rust just traps water and speeds up the corrosion. Get an inverter mig (now around £200 if you shop around), get one that runs off the mains (nominally 13A but the 16a seem to work ok at the power you will use), watch a lot of you tube videos and practice. My recent expreince with a new inverter MIG is that the latest gasless wire works really well (a lot better than I was expecting) which makes it much easier to work outside (gasless works in a breeze, gas doesn't). Start on the most non-structural part and only move on to the important bits once you are sure you are getting good welds. Cut a few up to check. I had some holes in my bulkhead, so I welded some scrap, then welded the lawn mover (it did need it!) then the trailer (about 4 hours solid welding) then aced the bulkhead.
 
rob1miles said:
... Get an inverter mig...
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Can you recommend a suitable rating? I have seen them for sale rated 90Amp, 180A, 200A, 250A, and not sure what to choose. Obviously the higher rated ones tend to be more expensive.

Input power is not a problem, I have 3 phase and can pull up to 40A if I like ;)
 
Disco1BFG said:
If you have 3~, I suggest you consider a old battleship of a welder from an auction - either online or in person ... You might get a better deal on a top quality machine .... and you might not... it's worth a look :)
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Yeah worth a look, good idea. I've got a big 3ph diesel backup generator acquired like that.

flat said:
Get a bigger welder than you think you need, as you can always turn it down and then you have more power on tap if needed :)
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Re. above 2nd hand and also re. a new gasless MIG, good point.
 
If you go new get an inverter mig that can be gas or gas-less, this gives you the option and the gas ones should be able to do TIG as well. The gas and gas-less are opposite polarity so getting one that does both you get the facility to change the polarity. I've not been a big fan of gas-less, always saw it as a poor substitute, but I'm finding it really usefull for thin work outside and with no garage that's really helpful.
 
rob1miles said:
I bought one of these and I've been very impresed so far:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIG-160A-IGBT-INVERTER-DC-WELDER-3-IN-1-MMA-TIG-MULTIFUNCTION-WELDING-MACHINE/272512400939?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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Thanks for the product link.

You certainly aced your bulkhead, excellent repair. Mine needs an almost identical repair and while there was a temptation to stick some filler in it temporarily, I can attest to what happens with that as others have described - did a temp fill repair on another vehicle to make it 'smooth' for the MOT and it started bubbling up within a couple of months.
 
I left it as hole for around a year as I was unhappy about my welding on another similar hole using the old welder. The inverter mig (plus a decent auto helmet) made it so easy it transformed my welding ability (after a bit of practice). I used the trick on "Wheelrdealers" - cut the hole to a neat shape with clean edges, press masking tape over it, transfer the tape to the new metal, cut the shape out, press it into the hole and hold it with a magnet, weld.
 
rob1miles said:
If you go new get an inverter mig that can be gas or gas-less, this gives you the option and the gas ones should be able to do TIG as well. The gas and gas-less are opposite polarity so getting one that does both you get the facility to change the polarity. I've not been a big fan of gas-less, always saw it as a poor substitute, but I'm finding it really usefull for thin work outside and with no garage that's really helpful.
Click to expand...
Been browsing these and many of them do MMA/MIG/TIG gas+gasless, thanks for your thoughts on this, I'll be doing exactly the same - thin repair work outdoors.

rob1miles said:
I left it as hole for around a year as I was unhappy about my welding on another similar hole using the old welder. The inverter mig (plus a decent auto helmet) made it so easy it transformed my welding ability (after a bit of practice). I used the trick on "Wheelrdealers" - cut the hole to a neat shape with clean edges, press masking tape over it, transfer the tape to the new metal, cut the shape out, press it into the hole and hold it with a magnet, weld.
Click to expand...
Some of Ed's tricks make such sense, this one particularly would make life a lot easier. The bonnet hinge rot which started me on this thread has been done quite shoddily on mine, so once I get proficient I might have a go at doing it again, especially after I found the original hinge piece in the back, makes me wonder why on earth someone fabricated a clumsy curl of metal and welded that on in it's place :confused:
 
You’ve some work ahead of you on bulkhead I’m afraid. You will cut out that section and likely find rot behind it and everywhere within
 
Oh and don’t feel too much of a tit - you’ll learn your lesson, just the hard way! I bought on a whim. Have had to do a little welding...
 
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