Is it possible to renew the front springs...

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Flossie

Flossie

Well-Known Member
Posts
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Location
Shropshire
by only removing the top damper nut and compressing the damper down?
Might be a silly question but got an advisory on the mot for all 4 springs, rears easy but the fronts can be a pita because of the usually corroded lower damper nut and access to it. I fitted new posh dampers to the front maybe 3 yrs ago and the old ones were a bugger to get off and I ended up cutting them off in the end and fitted the new posh ones. I suspect the new lower damper nuts won't undo so wondered if it is possible to squeeze the old springs out leaving the damper bottom attached? And fit the new springs.
 
Yep it can be done.

Remove top shock nut.
Jack/lift up chassis so the axle droops on 1 side. (Easy if you have a high lift jack)
Slide out spring.


(Cut shock at base & replace cus you know the nuts won’t come undone)
 
I would think quite challenging tbh. As you need enough movement (flop) of the shock to give enough room. You’ll want to lift the chassis from the axle. But depending on the springs length and rate they may still be a tight fit. Could try spring compressors, but they can be a pain and may reduce working room. The radius arm c cup limits droop, you could drop one bolt out at the axle end. But this all adds work. Might be worth seeing if they will undo.
 
Flossie said:
by only removing the top damper nut and compressing the damper down?
Might be a silly question but got an advisory on the mot for all 4 springs, rears easy but the fronts can be a pita because of the usually corroded lower damper nut and access to it. I fitted new posh dampers to the front maybe 3 yrs ago and the old ones were a bugger to get off and I ended up cutting them off in the end and fitted the new posh ones. I suspect the new lower damper nuts won't undo so wondered if it is possible to squeeze the old springs out leaving the damper bottom attached? And fit the new springs.
Click to expand...
I have 4 sets of spring compressors if u need them
Clam
Diy
Traditional
Inner spring

Frigging hate springs
 
Last edited:
300bhp/ton said:
I would think quite challenging tbh. As you need enough movement (flop) of the shock to give enough room. You’ll want to lift the chassis from the axle. But depending on the springs length and rate they may still be a tight fit. Could try spring compressors, but they can be a pain and may reduce working room. The radius arm c cup limits droop, you could drop one bolt out at the axle end. But this all adds work. Might be worth seeing if they will undo.
Click to expand...
That was my plan if leaving the damper bottom attached won't work. It's annoying when you have to potentially destroy a perfectly good damper to replace a knacked spring.
 
Flossie said:
That was my plan if leaving the damper bottom attached won't work. It's annoying when you have to potentially destroy a perfectly good damper to replace a knacked spring.
Click to expand...
Other option..

Can you undo the lower shock nut?
If yes,do this & remove the 4 nuts off the turret & lift out shock & turret out

lift up chassis & remove spring

Replace turret ring when replacing the spring.
 
Hicap phill said:
Other option..

Can you undo the lower shock nut?
If yes,do this & remove the 4 nuts off the turret & lift out shock & turret out

lift up chassis & remove spring

Replace turret ring when replacing the spring.
Click to expand...
Never had an issue undoing the top nut, always the bottom one although you've reminded me that I only just got away with reusing the turret rings last time, so need to add them and nuts cos they are weird thread, to the order. Think I'll just order new dampers, but cheapys, along with the springs(and discs cos the mot man advised on them too, rears look a bit w@nk and there is slight warpage to one of the fronts that I can feel through the peddle.
4 x discs, 4 x springs, 4 x dampers, 2 x rings, 8 x nuts ,1 x bruised knuckles, 1 x hurty wallet.
 
Flossie said:
Never had an issue undoing the top nut, always the bottom one although you've reminded me that I only just got away with reusing the turret rings last time, so need to add them and nuts cos they are weird thread, to the order. Think I'll just order new dampers, but cheapys, along with the springs(and discs cos the mot man advised on them too, rears look a bit w@nk and there is slight warpage to one of the fronts that I can feel through the peddle.
4 x discs, 4 x springs, 4 x dampers, 2 x rings, 8 x nuts ,1 x bruised knuckles, 1 x hurty wallet.
Click to expand...
The Britpart Celluar Dynamic shocks are pretty good and not a huge amount of money.

Go for some HD galv turret rings. They should last and be no bother in the future.

I also like the open turret style. The Gwyn Lewis ones. As they make access so much easier and don’t trap dirt.
 
300bhp/ton said:
The Britpart Celluar Dynamic shocks are pretty good and not a huge amount of money.

Go for some HD galv turret rings. They should last and be no bother in the future.

I also like the open turret style. The Gwyn Lewis ones. As they make access so much easier and don’t trap dirt.
Click to expand...
I've got the galv turret rings, two of the studs snapped off when I removed them to change the dampers a while back, quick weld job to get me back on the road at the time as she was a daily, forgot about it until the memory jog. Got a p38 now too so the 110 get sit a bit if necessary.
 
doriz said:
Are they safe or just rusty.
Click to expand...
Safe enough I suppose or I wouldn't have got an advisory? They are badly pitted and I carry heavy loads a few times a year so I'm happy to change them I just remember the ballache from replacing the dampers on the front a few yrs back. In fact, memory returning now, I had to remove perfectly good dampers to weld up the axle hole that the bottom stud goes into(gone oval) and as much as I tried to save the old but good dampers, I had to cut the bottom studs off in the end. Fitted new posh dampers and hoping that bottom nut will undo this time or I'll be wreaking another new pair of good dampers. Hence my query, if possible to leave the bottom nut untouched and still replace the spring?
 
I am going to buck the trend here and say I have never had an issue removing the lower nuts of the shock and have never needed to resort to cutting them off.
Set of chain link vice grips on the shock body around the weld where it is stronger, some penetrating spray and they have always broken free. it is the turret rings that always break and require replacement every time!

I would try and remove the nut first, you can always send back the dampers if not required to make the wallet hurty a little less.
 
dag019 said:
I am going to buck the trend here and say I have never had an issue removing the lower nuts of the shock and have never needed to resort to cutting them off.
Set of chain link vice grips on the shock body around the weld where it is stronger, some penetrating spray and they have always broken free. it is the turret rings that always break and require replacement every time!

I would try and remove the nut first, you can always send back the dampers if not required to make the wallet hurty a little less.
Click to expand...
I would say the same. As long as you can grip the shock firmly with the chain mole grips, the nut comes off
 
Pleased to say I managed to undo the bottom nuts after spraying the threads with release fluid every day for a week. Only just got round to doing it as I decided to repair all 4 door frames instead.
Just put the order in for the springs and what not, no dampers required.
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20240707_155618.jpg
 

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