Disco 2 Intercooler to EGR hose

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Better watch RAVE - electrical library which coresponds to what's on the fusebox's lid than that sh*t cos it's a wieird numbering in that link.
 
Yeah, RAVE is the go - F2 shown as a 15A fuse for MAF amongst other things. That other link that purports to show D2 engine fusebox is clearly wrong then (as you said)!
 
Okay, not able to check things until a couple of minutes ago and now getting dressed to go out! Did have a few minutes though and pulled out the F2 fuse (15A) under the bonnet - fuse looks 100% (will put another 15A in tomorrow just to be sure!) - no indication that it has blown - even used magnifying glass! So, will start Disco tomorrow, idle and rev and then unclip the MAF whilst it's running and see if there is any difference with idle or rev? Maybe the sprayclean with CRC MAF Cleaner on a 15-year-old, yet still functioning MAF, was the straw that broke the camel's back?! Better to be proactive than reactive I say! No diagnostic tool yet as I said before so I will have to go "old school elimination" for now! Gut says the old MAF may have carked it after my sympathetic clean!

Looking to add a diagnostic tool and multimeter to my tool-kit at some stage.
 
Last edited:
Okay just to be 100% sure with fuse I swapped F2 (15A) with F3 (15A). Tightened up intercooler hose at exit of intercooler to EGR bypass - had loosened this earlier in order to get the old EGR valve out - hose was getting in the way. So, checked vacuum plugs (two off) and they're secure, intercooler hoses secure and also fitted new DCV which arrived by courier today. All looks good then - started perfectly and squeezed the throttle many times - all seems okay now so maybe the MAF is working after all? Unfortunately I can't go for a drive just yet as some idiot has parked behind the Disco across the driveway. Anyway, engine seems to be running okay so I'll go and disconnect the MAF at the connector now and start her up again and see what happens this time? Once the car behind me moves I'll go for a drive!
 
Well unplugged the MAF, started and all good through idle and revs whilst parked in the driveway. So, noticed no difference from just before with MAF plugged in. Certainly the rough running (felt like about to stall) of a couple of days ago has now gone, with or without MAF connected; maybe there was air ingress and that was the issue. So, when I can drive out of the driveway (hopefully the car blocking me is gone soon) and go for a run I'll first have the MAF connected and then disconnected - seemed to make no difference in the driveway, but I'll see what happens on the road.
 
On the road - one decent trip with MAF connected - all good; identical trip with MAF connector removed - all good! So, MAF doesn't seem to do anything at this stage? Still a bit pricey to get a diagnostic tool, but maybe I can use a cheap multimeter to see if the MAP works? Any thoughts?

[Can't be definitive around what caused the rough running earlier - may have been the slightly loose intercooler hose?]
 
neilly said:
Have you seen this vid?



Cheers
Click to expand...


Yeah. Was going to buy a cheap multimeter to check out the MAF. MAF is original (15 years old and recently cleaned with MAF cleaner - but thinking it may not have been working for a while?). No warning light - only way you'd know if it wasn't working is if you checked with diagnostic tool or a multimeter.
 
Intestinalworm said:
Still a bit pricey to get a diagnostic tool, but maybe I can use a cheap multimeter to see if the MAP works? Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Sensor checks using the multimeter are only to confirm they are not completely FUBAR, you can't figure out with a multimeter how they work eventually only if you route wires into the cabin and watch readings under load too then compare these with the reading "chart", ... that's not the way to properly do things just a rudimentary partial diagnostic, if you want to fix things yourself bite the bullet and get a tester cos you can't read fault codes with a multimeter
 
sierrafery said:
Sensor checks using the multimeter are only to confirm they are not completely FUBAR, you can't figure out with a multimeter how they work eventually only if you route wires into the cabin and watch readings under load too then compare these with the reading "chart", ... that's not the way to properly do things just a rudimentary partial diagnostic, if you want to fix things yourself bite the bullet and get a tester cos you can't read fault codes with a multimeter
Click to expand...

So, I have to get a diagnostic (Foxwell as you suggested) before I can definitively determine whether the MAF is working properly. Worst case is that the diagnostic tool tells me the MAF isn't working properly so that means after buying a diagnostic tool I then buy a new MAF as well - total = c.$500? Other alternative is do nothing and just drive with the MAF plugged in or not and likely suffer reduced fuel economy and performance under certain conditions (ECU uses default values).

Wished it would be more clear-cut. Ah well,...

Anyway, Disco 2 running well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

heggars
Disco 1 Turbo air leak under boost
Replies
2
Views
719
heggars
heggars
A
Discovery 4 (2016) gives error code P045B-77 EGR “B” - does EGR valve need to be replaced?
Replies
0
Views
897
ahannula
A
ggrupea
Freelander TD4 vacuum hose servo EGR and turbo
Replies
9
Views
679
ggrupea
ggrupea
tweedandbriar
Fuel Cooler Leaking hose...
Replies
4
Views
333
tweedandbriar
tweedandbriar
HeywoodFloyd
Freelander 2 eating its intercooler turbo hose
Replies
5
Views
2K
Nodge68
Nodge68
Back
Top