Disco 2 Intercooler to EGR hose

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sierrafery said:
a missing engine cover can lead o that :D
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Makes sense, the heat obviously warmed up the brake fluid and caused a caliper to to self destruct :p

Just plugged my Hawkeye into the new D2 and the MANUAL gearbox has like 4 codes stored which only apply to an auto, mostly to do with xyz switch o_O
 
Jamiegreen said:
Just plugged my Hawkeye into the new D2 and the MANUAL gearbox has like 4 codes stored which only apply to an auto, mostly to do with xyz switch o_O
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You must have done something wrong there cos you can't acces a manual gearbox's ECU to read fault codes as it doesnt have one
 
sierrafery said:
You must have done something wrong there cos you can't acces a manual gearbox's ECU to read fault codes as it doesnt have one
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BCU is set to manual transmission but..o_Oo_O
And Hawkeye won't let me clear faults
Err sorry for the unrelated post :p
 

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That transmission menu is valid only for auto transmission, it might be a default inside hawkeye for that if the ECU is not present but you can't read or erase fault codes from a missing ECU... the setting in the BCU has nothing to do with that... open another thread about that if you still have dillemas
 
sierrafery said:
It's dual purpose MAP/IAT sensor, it has a small hole near that protuberance there's the pressure sensor, the ''probe'' is for IAT(inlet air temperature) so that small hole is important to be free'd of muck
View attachment 141745
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Great, that makes sense - lot of gunk on the small hole that is the pressure sensor - can now see what looks like maybe a tiny piezo electric crystal:D; so the temperature sensor is inside that protruding piece - that was dirty as well! Sorted - learning a lot via this forum!!! I could just read RAVE but it's a bit dry!:D
 
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sierrafery said:
IMO put that cover back, it's not only acoustic cover as some seem to think, it acts as a thermal shield too, it protects the electrics from the head's radiant heat, especially the connectors and the fusebox... as i already said in other post ;)... i've even fitted a turbo blanket which reduces the engine bay's temp even more(beside a slight improvement in the boost curve) and wrapped the downpipe .... i made all kind of comparative measurements on my car with laser thermometer pointed to various bits in the engine bay after longer drives with and without engine cover and the result is explanatory as at the same ECT the surrounding temperature was lower with up to 8*C even better after the turbo blanket was fitted while it was neglectable difference in the ECT without it.... so if you want to ''tenderise'' your electrics in the engine bay in favour of some "heavenly" sound it's your choice :cool:
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Checked out those turbo blankets - they look good; seen them on ebay for a reasonable price (c.$40). Makes sense from a thermodynamics viewpoint as far as the turbo performance goes and clearly will reduce the amount of convected and radiated heat energy under the bonnet - will help protect more sensitive componentry.
 
I presume the turbo heat shield is dispensed with once the turbo blanket is installed - looks too big to sit under the shield. That one on ebay looks good!
 
Okay, I'm hoping to tap into your collective brains - troubleshooting exercise to exercise the inner Sherlock Holmes!

Okay, facts:
  • 2003 Discovery 2 Td5
  • 11th Feb - vehicle running fine, no issues at all on long drive but want to keep going with preventative maintenance and improvement jobs
  • 12th Feb - parked in driveway to continue next work task:
    • Removed EGR (EU3 model - EGR cooler and two actuators and two vacuum lines on EGR valve) to install new EGR blanking kit
    • Blanked off EGR cooler at both ends, blanked exhaust manifold, installed EGR bypass pipe and re-connected the intercooler hose
    • Removed two vacuum lines from EGR valve, traced the lines back to solenoids - removed them at the solenoids and pushed/secured rubber blanks over each of the respective solenoid vacuum outlets
    • Disconnected negative lead on battery
    • Removed MAF sensor (original and never cleaned since vehicle purchased new in 2003) from vehicle and sprayed with CRC MAF Cleaner - sensor wires look shiny
    • Let MAF air dry and then reinstalled (checked air flow direction towards turbo)
    • Removed MAP/IAT sensor on inlet manifold and sprayed with CRC MAF cleaner - sensor was dirty and now looked nice and clean
    • Let MAP/IAT dry and reinstalled
    • Reconnected battery negative terminal
  • 13th Feb - started vehicle to go for a drive
    • Started perfectly but after around 5-10 seconds the engine started to rumble/shake (no history ever of rough idling to this point)
    • Gave it a bit of throttle - still erratic - didn't conk out, but seemed like it would - not keen to go out on the road!
Okay then, nothing obvious under the bonnet to see but what could it be? I'll leave it at that and see what you think are the likely scenarios and maybe even suggest some simple troubleshooting.

Couple of further items:
  • Plenty of diesel in the tank
  • I don't currently have a diagnostic tool
  • ECU was supposedly tweaked (memory flashed) around 5 years ago by an independent L/R mechanic - I didn't notice any difference whatsoever, in fact I had to go back and see him as he said he got it wrong first time around and didn't actually flash anything! Anyway, I only mention this because I wondered if the ECU is confused and is looking for the EGR which is of course now removed? Can't see this as an issue, but just a thought.
  • Does the ECU automatically adjust to a missing EGR, cleaned MAF and cleaned MAP/IAT?
Any thoughts, ideas, tests to carry out, things to check? Expected the above to be straight forward!
 
sierrafery said:
Can you hear the fuel pump running?
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Yeah, can hear the fuel pump come on when the ignition is switched to the position just before start. Started fine of course, but then that rumble/engine rocking. Not at home now, but will maybe try again tomorrow and have a good look under the bonnet while the vehicle is running. No warning lights, just the rough idling that has never happened before so therefore linking it to something I have deliberately done or inadvertently done.

Read on another forum that cleaning MAFs can be an issue - not uncommon for them to play-up after being cleaned? Hard to believe, but mentioned by several people. I just took it out (and also the MAP/IAT) with the battery negative disconnected and gave both a good spray with the CRC MAF cleaner - both were dirty, moreso the MAP/IAT.
 
yes, a very old MAF can fail after a cleaning but it doesnt affect idle much...unplug it and see how it goes that way but better wait untill you have a diagnostic tool otherwise it's a guessing game
 
sierrafery said:
yes, a very old MAF can fail after a cleaning but it doesnt affect idle much...unplug it and see how it goes that way but better wait untill you have a diagnostic tool otherwise it's a guessing game
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Okay, will unplug MAF tomorrow and see what happens. Could it be MAP/IAT? Not as if I threw them in the dishwasher!!!
 
Actually, will check again tomorrow, but thinking back I'm starting to think it idled fine - only went weird on me when I squeezed the accelerator!
 
You can rule out only the MAF by unplugging it, unplugging the MAP/IAT would only reduce boost but should not affect the running... check fuse F2 in the engine bay cos it's the feed for MAF and the EGR solenoids to not be some short on that circuit as you worked there... the EGR removal would not affect the engine's behaviour
 
sierrafery said:
You can rule out only the MAF by unplugging it, unplugging the MAP/IAT would only reduce boost but should not affect the running... check fuse F2 in the engine bay cos it's the feed for MAF and the EGR solenoids to not be some short on that circuit as you worked there
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Okay - will also check the fuse tomorrow. Always a worry working on something - always try to take care and take precautions but you can never rule out having knocked/damaged something!

Okay, will unplug MAF tomorrow and see how it goes at idle and with throttle. Will then check fuse F2.
 
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