Andy Reid
Member
- Posts
- 26
- Location
- Windsor, Berks
Hello all.
Range Rover. 2004. L322. 4.4 V8 (yes, sounds amazing and lovely to drive).
Have decided to give her TLC. Diamond cut the wheels, Install DVD player in roof, a nicer front grill and possibly a pool...
Upfront, the instrument cluster had a broken LCD screen. I could just about work out the range of miles left on a tank and my average speed and all the good info I want at the touch of a switch. But it was a case of squinting my eyes and working out from other characters the remaining fuel... things should work. and I think and easy fix.
I bought a new cluster. ebay. and checked the correct serial number before ordering. Taken the dash apart, dropped in the new cluster and then took to local 4x4 garage to get calibrated/reset as the cluster ran with most of the lights on and my air suspension wasn't active. Figured things needed to be 'told' they were now connected.
Have picked up the car. Runs perfectly as usual. Dash back on. Cluster lights all off... but so is the LCD band where I'd see 'range of miles to go' info etc. also the temp gauge says -40. I know it's been cold, but it's not that cold! Garage said they'd reset things and found the temp gauge was bust and I needed a new one as the reading (-40). but that wasn't' the case on the old cluster as it was working fine before and I don't believe the gauge breaks co-incidentally.
Pressing the "i" button on the steering stalk doesn't give me any changes.
I wondered if the "i" button had a fuse of it's own and figured fuse 8 and 49 (on board computer) would be worth a check. I checked. all okay.
The joy of YouTube allowed me to find the 'cluster test'. I pressed the buttons in the right order and I can see the cluster dials move all over a few times and ALL the lights and ALL the LCD screen has power. I can see each cell of the LCD screen go black/grey. Therefore the LCD ribbon is good and connected and power is available when needed; great.
I also noticed on the YouTube videos that these cluster demos also help temp at -40...
so...
1. Have I missed the obvious? A simple press of a switch or a 'take the battery off'? something that gets things going?
2. Is the reset process not complete? if so can I finish it?
3. is -40 and indication that the LCD screen and cluster not quite completed in its calibration?
4. Anything else?
I'm happy to go back to the garage ad say "hey, c'mon? this is essentially worse than the status quo I started with", but again, more time and money and I like the idea of fixing things on my drive.
Over to you.
Thanks. sorry for the long post, I hadn't time for a short one.
Andy
Berkshire.
Not posh.
Range Rover. 2004. L322. 4.4 V8 (yes, sounds amazing and lovely to drive).
Have decided to give her TLC. Diamond cut the wheels, Install DVD player in roof, a nicer front grill and possibly a pool...
Upfront, the instrument cluster had a broken LCD screen. I could just about work out the range of miles left on a tank and my average speed and all the good info I want at the touch of a switch. But it was a case of squinting my eyes and working out from other characters the remaining fuel... things should work. and I think and easy fix.
I bought a new cluster. ebay. and checked the correct serial number before ordering. Taken the dash apart, dropped in the new cluster and then took to local 4x4 garage to get calibrated/reset as the cluster ran with most of the lights on and my air suspension wasn't active. Figured things needed to be 'told' they were now connected.
Have picked up the car. Runs perfectly as usual. Dash back on. Cluster lights all off... but so is the LCD band where I'd see 'range of miles to go' info etc. also the temp gauge says -40. I know it's been cold, but it's not that cold! Garage said they'd reset things and found the temp gauge was bust and I needed a new one as the reading (-40). but that wasn't' the case on the old cluster as it was working fine before and I don't believe the gauge breaks co-incidentally.
Pressing the "i" button on the steering stalk doesn't give me any changes.
I wondered if the "i" button had a fuse of it's own and figured fuse 8 and 49 (on board computer) would be worth a check. I checked. all okay.
The joy of YouTube allowed me to find the 'cluster test'. I pressed the buttons in the right order and I can see the cluster dials move all over a few times and ALL the lights and ALL the LCD screen has power. I can see each cell of the LCD screen go black/grey. Therefore the LCD ribbon is good and connected and power is available when needed; great.
I also noticed on the YouTube videos that these cluster demos also help temp at -40...
so...
1. Have I missed the obvious? A simple press of a switch or a 'take the battery off'? something that gets things going?
2. Is the reset process not complete? if so can I finish it?
3. is -40 and indication that the LCD screen and cluster not quite completed in its calibration?
4. Anything else?
I'm happy to go back to the garage ad say "hey, c'mon? this is essentially worse than the status quo I started with", but again, more time and money and I like the idea of fixing things on my drive.
Over to you.
Thanks. sorry for the long post, I hadn't time for a short one.
Andy
Berkshire.
Not posh.