Info for Bump starting a TD5 and checking injectors with a Nanocom

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Pigglet

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49
Location
N Yorks
Back on the TD5 Defender, this time with a nanocom and I'm still struggling to get it to fire.
It's had a recon gearbox before I got to it. when I put the Nanocom on it was showing zero RPM while cranking.
I discovered the CPS was not plugged in DOH. Multiplug connected and it's now showing 200rpm when cranking.
The fuel pump is running when the ignition is on.
It appears that the injectors aren't firing at all as it doesn't even attempt to fire.
I've cleaned the terminal that runs from the starter to the injector harness, replaced the injector harness, had the ECU checked by ECU Testing. The Nanocom shows no faults standing.

I'm wondering, is it possible to test fire the injectors with the nanocom and if so what's the process?

Also, in order to rule out a faulty starter motor stopping the injectors firing, I've read a couple threads suggesting bumping the vehicle off.
What is the process for this? Is it as straight forward as just ignition on and tow it off and drop the clutch?
I thought I had read that you may need to remove the starter solenoid and turn the ignition to crank as you drop the clutch?

Any thoughts gratefully appreciated!
 
Just seen this
Pigglet said:
it's now showing 200rpm when cranking
Click to expand...
it must get above 250 rpm to start, see the battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 10.5V it will hardly start cos it needs more to open the injectors
Pigglet said:
is it possible to test fire the injectors with the nanocom and if so what's the process?
Click to expand...
it's in the "Outputs" menu last line... better read the user guides available here https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads
 
Brilliant, thanks for the reply. Its a new battery and fully charged and was only showing 220 rpm at the first attempt. Voltage was 12.7.
The crank position sensor speed reading was stable with no apparent interference/fluctuation. so I thought it was ok. The starter sounded pretty quick so I thought it would be OK. Perhaps the CPS is on it's way out and reading low.

I will try bump starting it in second gear and see if that gets it to fire.

I have found the injector test function on the nanocom and have gone through each injector and get a 'click' sound from the injector when I press the test button. I was wondering if it is possible to remove the injector from the head and test fire it to see if it is actually firing fuel.

I will go back to it later today and have another mess around now that I know that it needs to see 250rpm or above to fire the injectors.
 
I tried bumping it off today and it managed to fire but only just. The battery was fully charged and showing 12.7 volts when towing. I let th eclutrch up in second and it span up to around 1750rpm and ran very lumpily with the throttle fully open.
At either lower RPM (tow speed) or anything other than full throttle it wouldn;t attempt to fire so I'm guessing it's a fuelling issue. The Nanocom is still showing no fault.

When I turn the ignition on the fuel pumps is quite noisy and runs for about 20 seconds before cutting out. I've done the purge cycle etc. I did try checking the voltage across the fuse and thought it was ok before I started this process but I'm now suspecting the pump.
 
Pigglet said:
I let th eclutrch up in second and it span up to around 1750rpm and ran very lumpily with the throttle fully open.
Click to expand...
You are not supposed to push the throttle once it fired up untill it didnt idle a bit on it's own and if it started once and ran no matter how never touch the throttle without engine already running cos you flood the engine, insisting to start it without knowing a corect procedure can prolonge the symptom, see that bolded note
1753131808474.png
 
Thanks for the reply Sierraferry. I did initially try it without touching the throttle but it wouldn't fire at all. I then tried it with the throttle open which got it to fire but then took my foot off the peddle and it died instantly. The only way it would run was with the throttle fully open and then it was lumpy and not on all cylinders. It wouldn;t even attempt to fire at speeds below 1500rpm.I tried multiple runs with various throttle positions, starting from closed and working to fully open. It only fired when I tried it with the throttle fully open.

I've tried the above procedure and it won't fire.
I'm going to order a new CPS as that is only showing 220rpm with a new battery, fuel pump, regulator and non return valve and see what that does. The vehicle had been stood for 3 years so I'm guessing the pump is past it's best.
 
Pigglet said:
I'm going to order a new CPS as that is only showing 220rpm with a new battery
Click to expand...
I must insist for the last time to measure the battery voltage WHILE CRANKING, the fact that the battery is new is irrelevant if there is a draw while cranking for some reason and the voltage drops more than 2V it will not start
 
sierrafery said:
I must insist for the last time to measure the battery voltage WHILE CRANKING, the fact that the battery is new is irrelevant if there is a draw while cranking for some reason and the voltage drops more than 2V it will not start
Click to expand...
Thanks again for replying Sierrafery. I will check the voltage while cranking tomorrow when I go back to the vehicle.
 
The voltage dropped about 1.5V while cranking.
My gut feel was it's a fuelling issue (given it would only attempt to fire while bumping
at full throttle and high revs) so having worked through the easy/obvious stuff I pulled the pump out of the tank. It was noisy and I was suspecting it's not producing full pressure.
There was bit of black bio gunk on the strainer on the bottom of the pump but not loads.
The inside of the tank was pretty clean as was the fuel.
Hmmm, Given the pump is noisy I'll strip it down........... got nothing to lose at this point as there are no other obvious faults..
20250724_144743.jpg


20250724_144751.jpg


I think I've found the issue.....
The inside of the lower cage was full of gunk and the gauze strainer above was absolutely choked.
I wiped the pump clean and got the thick thick off the gauze before removing it from the pump.
The LP intake was spotless under the gauze filter so it had done it's job. I've cleaned it all, drained and cleaned the tank and changed the filter and pressure reg. Just waiting for a new pump lock ring before I refit it and see what happens.
 
Pigglet said:
The voltage dropped about 1.5V while cranking.
My gut feel was it's a fuelling issue (given it would only attempt to fire while bumping
at full throttle and high revs) so having worked through the easy/obvious stuff I pulled the pump out of the tank. It was noisy and I was suspecting it's not producing full pressure.
There was bit of black bio gunk on the strainer on the bottom of the pump but not loads.
The inside of the tank was pretty clean as was the fuel.
Hmmm, Given the pump is noisy I'll strip it down........... got nothing to lose at this point as there are no other obvious faults..
View attachment 346218

View attachment 346219

I think I've found the issue.....
The inside of the lower cage was full of gunk and the gauze strainer above was absolutely choked.
I wiped the pump clean and got the thick thick off the gauze before removing it from the pump.
The LP intake was spotless under the gauze filter so it had done it's job. I've cleaned it all, drained and cleaned the tank and changed the filter and pressure reg. Just waiting for a new pump lock ring before I refit it and see what happens.
Click to expand...
So, do you have any idea what on earth that gunk is?
 
It's basically the diesel tank equivalent of algae. Biological matter that grows in the diesel. The vehicle has been stood for nearly 4 years so without any agitation or fresh fuel its probably provided ideal growing conditions. It's not that uncommon. Some of the more expensive fuels have biocide added to prevent it growing.
 
Pigglet said:
It's basically the diesel tank equivalent of algae. Biological matter that grows in the diesel. The vehicle has been stood for nearly 4 years so without any agitation or fresh fuel its probably provided ideal growing conditions. It's not that uncommon. Some of the more expensive fuels have biocide added to prevent it growing.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
I have chucked stuff into the tanks of all my vehicles that are lying idle. Not in the country so I cannot check the bottle out.
Is that likely to have prevented it? I think it calls itself "fuel conditioner" blue stuff, as far as I remember.
 
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