immobiliser problem .out of country

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andrei220490

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Hello to all comunity. My name is Andrei and I'm from Romania so I'm sorry if my english is bad. Me and my wife got a Freelander facelift as our wedding gift. Its a manual gearbox 2.0l tdi from 2005 , wheel on the right side. Last wheek i tried to start the engine but he didnt wanted to be started. Put the egnition and when the "check engine" light remains on the engine wont start and sometimes when the light is turnin off ,the engine starts like a charm . It not happening all the time . I put it on a tester and its showing me the imobiliser problem . That guy told me that he cant erase the error and that i must go and check it out. I saw that there are plenty of people with the same problem but mine is quite different. Sometimes it work and sometimes it doesnt work. I have 2 keys with 2 remote control and the right door isnt opening from the remote... i saw that this problem can be a factor . I must say that first 2 guy who looked over my car sayd that might be something wrong with the comouter. Some easy tricks to bypass the immobiliser or to put an end to it ?
 
ive allready tried a bunch of metodt. opening the ar with the key , opening the car with the remote , pushing brake pedal for 5 times ( this one i saw somewhere on the internet ) and it doesnt work . i will try changing the remote battery today maybe i will have some luck .first time i pushed the car because i thought i ran out of power and the light went off and ive managed to start the engine .
GrumpyGel - i dont know what VIN number is :)
 
First post and imobiliser problem - does sound suspicious, HPI check doesn't show it as dodgy though.

Does anyone know if an imobiliser problem would throw up the check engine light? My Freelander is very different to yours as its a 99 with inducer if the fob not key. But I had intermittent failure to start and that was due to the battery in the fob needing replacing. It lit a light on the dash - but it was the one the alarm one that flashes when you're away from the car.

It would be good to see what the actual error codes are.
 
There's no way to bypass the engine immobiliser. The engine ECU is coded to the immobiliser ECU.
The state of the remote battery is irrelevant too. On a 2005 Freelander, the remote simply opens and closes locks the doors.
The key has a coded transponder inside which tells the immobiliser, the key is in the ignition. It uses a transponder coil around the ignition switch to do this. This coil has been known to fail.
 
does it happen in the same place all the time?

Some door opening sensors on shops etc and radio masts can interfere with the signal.
 
Check engine light won't come on due to an immobiliser issue.

What does the temperature gauge do when it won't start?

Any other warning lights?

Sounds like a wiring issue to me knocking the engine management ECU offline
 
Nodge68 said:
There's no way to bypass the engine immobiliser. The engine ECU is coded to the immobiliser ECU.
The state of the remote battery is irrelevant too. On a 2005 Freelander, the remote simply opens and closes locks the doors.
The key has a coded transponder inside which tells the immobiliser, the key is in the ignition. It uses a transponder coil around the ignition switch to do this. This coil has been known to fail.
Click to expand...

:behindsofa:

Thank your lucky stars that you do not have a Range Rover P38...then you could have real trouble !!!:eek::eek::eek:
The system on the Freelander is not as complex.
Nodge is right in his description of the immobiliser function..the remote does not have any direct involvement other than to unlock the doors.
If the keys are genuine originals, it is highly unlikely that the transponder chip is faulty in both keys.
The transponder coil which is fitted around the ignition switch barrel could be breaking down...it has many turns of fine copper wire. The coil is not matched to the key chip it is a standard part and a coil from another car of the same model would be identical and could be fitted. The coil, when energised by inserting the key into the ignition switch, causes the chip in the key to send it's unique code to the immobiliser ECU...if the code matches the stored value, the car will start.
Firstly, I would remove the plastic cowl around the switch and check all connections to the ignition switch & coil for security or damage. Try wiggling the wires and look for dirty contact in the multi pin connectors.
I believe that the coils are not available seperately, you have to purchase the complete ignition switch assembly. You would probably get just the coil from a breakers-have a look on Ebay.
Do NOT replace the ignition switch and keys from a breakers as the keys will have a different chip code from the originals and you will be in deeper trouble :eek:
Another thought, if the car is Automatic, the inhibitor switch could be faulty and sending a spurious output that the car is not in "P" or "N" which would immobilise the starter motor.

Good Luck :)
 
I'm with td4van on this, I'd have though its a 'generic' electrical issue rather than something specific to the imobiliser.

My reasoning being the Check Engine light coming on and the intermittant occurance.

First stop I'd ay would be to change the battery - this looks to have solved all manner of strange faults on Freelanders !
 
That you al for That many repplyes. Since my last post i couldnt start my car.the check engine light remains on and the engine didnt start at all. I park it like a drunk driver 3 night ago because of i didnt had enough space around my Work and now i cant start it at all ti move it. I will try disaamble the plastic cowl (ITS That one under the steer That i have to disaamble?) and check the wires also Find That coil. But cant do That now ,cause im on work till 8pm and o have to Walt for a wa weather too before i'll do something cause Its -13 degrees outside. But thank you.this is something where i should start. The car is manual by the way and i intend fixin it because we want to came in england in a month or two with the car
 
this may sound a daft question but could a faulty starter motor cause this fault along with a bad earth lead

as the immobiliser cuts the power to the starter motor and u say when u try and turn it over u just hear a noise could it be the starter trying to spin but is worn

have u got power to the starter motor because if u have wouldnt that mean the immobilser is working and got the correct code to allow it to start

just an idea and wondered what u guys thought, im most proberly completely wrong ????
 
Last edited:
Ive never had problems with car's battery or contacts. Some months ago ive installed a subwoofer on the car but i didnt touch the earth lead , just the positive lead. Yesterday ive met with the guy who ran the diagnose for the car and he Said That there a one on a milion chances to ne That coil under the steering wheel. Also i changed the battery again for the remote and That flashing red light sea to ne normal.
 
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And ahe started !!! My sent my father in law to try to start the engine cause i thought he is more luckyer than me and she started. he didnt wainted to dash light to turn on and of ,he simply turm the key all the way and she started. ive tryed myself 2 time and started like a champ. but if i put contact and waint the dash bord lights to turn on and then try start the engine ,it fails. so what do i have to do now ...?!
 
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