P38A I think it's no longer dodgy. :-)

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Well the new MF31-1000 is rated as a "Truck" battery, I am hoping the Voltage drop is not continuous down below 12.48.
Got the same on one of my P38's, drops to 12.6 quite quickly but doesn't drop much more even after a week. Not checked over a longer period but it starts with no problem after 3 weeks stood.
 
I fiited a tractor battery to mine!!

It can stand for weeks now!! ;)

oHoTSpZl.jpg


See you want a diesel really you have already started the conversion:D:p
 
See you want a diesel really you have already started the conversion:D:p
Pffffft ;)
If i had the moolah i'd have a 1995 DT manual with no bits, just a commuter car..
Can't justify diesel though as my commute is so short.. :D
And all the DSE's i saw could only muster 22mpg :eek::D
 
The all too familiar battery issue that every Range Rover owner (all models) becomes familiar with.
Battery just losing charge/volts it seems.

Not quite ALL models :rolleyes:
My 32 year old Classic V8 is a second car, parks outdoors all the year round & covers only around 2k per annum.
It has never seen a battery-charger & standard auto-shop batteries last me around five years.

There are advantages to KISS (keep it simple)
 
And all the DSE's i saw could only muster 22mpg :eek::D
They are most likely autos. My manual will do 30mpg easy even with the 32 MTs. None of the EGR nonsense either.
She’s good daily since new battery has been on and static set.
My battery is a truck/lorry one. If I plug the RF in it used to drain in about a week with old battery. I did reconnect it once for a month, knowing it would drain the more MF31. needed only small top up.

They will cope no probs Dan, will just take a little time before you trust it ;)
 
Pffffft ;)
If i had the moolah i'd have a 1995 DT manual with no bits, just a commuter car..
Can't justify diesel though as my commute is so short.. :D
And all the DSE's i saw could only muster 22mpg :eek::D
Long term average for over ten years with brim to brim checks is 24mpg on my MY2000 diesel auto. On the autoroute it gets close to 30mpg.
 
Ahhhh.....
I charged her up yesterday and REMOVED that USB charger from the rear convenience socket in the boot (because I wondered if it could be drawing a current all the time).
Just been out there a moment ago ( >24Hrs later) and the "Ctek Comfort Connector" is still showing a Green Flashing LED (i.e. Battery is 12.7V or greater). Before I remove the Ctek thingy, I will monitor the thing for a day or two before disconnecting it.
Maybe the USB charger WAS able to draw current????
I know the socket is supposed to be dead when ignition is off though.
@Datatek @Grrrrrr
 
Ahhhh.....
I charged her up yesterday and REMOVED that USB charger from the rear convenience socket in the boot (because I wondered if it could be drawing a current all the time).
Just been out there a moment ago ( >24Hrs later) and the "Ctek Comfort Connector" is still showing a Green Flashing LED (i.e. Battery is 12.7V or greater). Before I remove the Ctek thingy, I will monitor the thing for a day or two before disconnecting it.
Maybe the USB charger WAS able to draw current????
I know the socket is supposed to be dead when ignition is off though.
@Datatek @Grrrrrr

Don't know without checking RAVE wiring diagrams. Mine's a '95 and the only reason I have a power point in the boot is because I put it there and deliberately made it permanent 12V live in case I wanted to plug a solar trickle-charger in.
 
As long as you don’t ctek it to death ;)
It has a warranty.

Just unplug it and relax see what happens after few weeks. Top it up in 6 months maybe. Itl drive you mad er
You cannot Ctek a battery to death as you put it, smart chargers go into float mode when a battery reaches full charge and can be left connected for ever, mine always have either a solar panel with a smart regulator or a smart charger connected at all times when parked at home. Fully charged batteries last longer.
 
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