I suffered a Run away diesel

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Ps watch out as (and I've never understood why!) there are two slots on the flywheel. You need the right one.

One will get you lined up on the injection pump, one will be some way out.

They'll both be out if the timing has shifted but one will still be close (else it wouldn't be running at all) and the other will be way out.
 
finding tdc is not a problem and ive done a few timing belts in my time. I used to have a reverse light switch for the flywheel but I couldn't find it last time. more worried about having to learn about the air conditioning as I've not worked on a air conditioned 300 before. I expect it is going to get in my way for checking the timing???
car was at normal temp when I test drove as I'd left it to idle for a long time. I got into 3rd gear and no faster than 30mph and clouds of white smoke. none while idling???
 
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200Tdi FIP Timing....

Coming up to the first week of ownership with the Defender Ninety...200Tdi conversion (Disco engine). She has always smoked DERV white in the few days we have had her and on occasions struggled to start, then when she did fire up, she was missing on a couple of pots until she warmed a bit...
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Been out there and checked. Whoever suggested timing is spot on... Thank you. Tried with cover on. Put pin in fuel pump on 4 revolutions and every time there was no slot visible on the fly wheel. So. Cover now removed. Pump needed to be turned about 1 tooth clockwise to line up. Belt was way too loose, thought the tensioner had come loose but on further inspection it wasn't. Belt in okay condition except one tooth cracked at the base. I guess that's where it jumped and stretched it, hence why tension was loose. Gates belt and ina tensioner/idler.

Have photos I will post when I get time
 
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Timing belt photos
 

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It’s the thin slot of the two in the flywheel you want, was that the proper timing pin fully in, it looked very wobbly, mine was a neat sliding fit
 
You are correct, it wouldn't go in, that was what I was trying to show. It is the correct pin. Flywheel was locked in place. I found my reverse light switch. I couldn't get the pin in until I removed the belt and was able to turn the pump pulley. Was a tooth out maybe 2. Had to turn it clockwise to line it up. Bearings were a bit noisy so I've got to order a new timing belt kit.
Interesting that the over revving would cause this??
 
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julianf said:
Timing would be the first thing to re-check.

And air leaks into the fuel if you've been messing with any of the fuel line connections.

If you're 100% sure these are good then start looking at other stuff, but, if you have messed with the fuel lines, my money would be on them.

I've not read the whole lot - have you done the belt post incident?
Click to expand...
Spot on. Looks like you were right. thanks
 
I reckon you may know this, but the fip, at idle, never sits at the "tdc" position. It almost does, but just not quite - you have to get a socket on it and just apply a touch of tension for the pin to slide in and out without friction.
 
Order from paddocks due tomorrow..... Hopefully.
Timing belt kit and I took the liberty to add a few extras to make the free postage. New air con tensioner pulley as it's got a noisy bearing.
Any gaskets and o rings for the oil filter housing as that looks like it's leaking. Plus the inevitable cyclone o ring x 5 :cool:
Let's hope I can get it all running sweet soon 👍👍
 
You've ordered it now, but there are two kits. One moves the lip from the idler to the crank sprocket (ie the kit comes with a crank sprocket as well as the idler)

You (someone) only needs this kit once (or maybe twice as there was a revision to the lipped crank sprocket also) and then you can go with the cheaper kit that only has the idler.

Iirc (which may not be the case!) the crank sprocket that you want looks like a single bit of metal with a lip.

The one before looked like a sprocket with a lip spot welded onto it.

And the one before that had no lip.
 
julianf said:
You've ordered it now, but there are two kits. One moves the lip from the idler to the crank sprocket (ie the kit comes with a crank sprocket as well as the idler)

You (someone) only needs this kit once (or maybe twice as there was a revision to the lipped crank sprocket also) and then you can go with the cheaper kit that only has the idler.

Iirc (which may not be the case!) the crank sprocket that you want looks like a single bit of metal with a lip.

The one before looked like a sprocket with a lip spot welded onto it.

And the one before that had no lip.
Click to expand...
Thanks, but not too worry, I already knew. This car is a MY98 on. T plate. It's one of the last ones the sold in 1999 as a Safari edition.
Due to its age it obviously has the later type, which is the one I've bought. I've also got kit with both the tensioner and idler. I noticed some don't have the idler which seemed pointless to me...lol
If look closely at the previous video you will see it's got the later type set up. 👍😁👍
 
How the hell does one replace the metal/rubber oil seal on the front timing cover. I've removed the old one but I don't want to hit the new one too hard in case I brake the case. Any advice please 🙏

Edit,
Went to my garage down the road. He lets me use his press. Oh wow! How easy was that.
Done now
 
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New turbo fitted,
New cam belt and pulleys.
Timing set and valve clearances done.
Started and sound okay.
Took for a spin. Okay till on motorway. White smoke and lack of power at very top end.
After speaking to James Martin it would seem that most of the smoke is coming from the exhaust. However, I overlooked the Cat!
Completely forgot about it, it was on my list to de cat it but all the time it was okay why bother right?
Anyway. Cat will be clogged with oil and causing back pressure, inturn causing smoke and lack of power so I've ordered a de cat downpipe.
Hopefully that solves the issues 👍👍
 
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New exhaust done but still not running correct. I notice when starting cold now it's difficult, have to press accelerator to start after hanging on the starter for a while. When it does start it almost as if it's on 2 cylinders because while holding accelerator down a bit and not moving it will run rough for 10 to 15 second then speed up a bit as if it's now on 3. Then a few seconds later speed up again as if it's now running on all 4. I notice it's like a kettle boiling with oil cap removed so too much back pressure.
When I did the valve clearences 8 was a little out and 7 was a lot out, bent pushrod and damaged valves?
Knacked head gasket?
Rings?
Still smokes under load
I'll have to get a compression test done but I don't have that tool. Then I expect I'll have to whip the head off 😞😞😞
 
Compression test done, I don't know why but I did one cold first. Lol

Cold. Hot
1-310. 300
2-315. 275
3-290. 315
4-360. 340

As 10% goes ..... Think we've failed there
What is that result telling you guys?

I've checked the cyclone, that is clear. I will check the pipe coming out of the bottom but came in for dinner. Think I'll check the timing again and remove the injectors. Maybe get them tested if nothing obvious on them but it looks to me like something is wrong on cylinder number 2. I can't do a leak down as I have no compressor.
Looks like head off I think 🤔
 
Quick update, it's taking a while due to being busy at work. 😞
Removed injectors and stripped each one and cleaned. Looked like the washers were leaking so obtained new ones, re assembled with ridge towards injector(I'll explain why if I need to)
New compression check and I got a really healthy
1 - 345
2 - 340
3 - 350
4 - 350
So it looks like the injectors were leaking which I expect over revving would cause,
Leak off pipes replaced and now it starts lovely.
Got a knocking and still smokes so took the plunge and stripped it. Head off.
Number 3 exhaust pushrod bent.
Decided to take sump off and remove all 4 pistons just to check.
Cylinder 2 a few vertical lines but not deep and cross hatching hardly visible.
Then I noticed piston 2 was not original so I assume the cylinder is historic. All things are good.
Just a bit of play in the small ends so I'll get some new bushes pressed and machined.
It looks like the bent pushrod is the likely culprit with a possibility of an issue with a valve but I've not stripped the head yet. I'll let you know 🙂 🙂
 
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steve2286w said:
Well done getting to the bottom of it, do you think bent pushrod there before or occurred during running on
Click to expand...
I did the head gasket about 18 months ago and it wasn't there then.
If you remember at the beginning the timing had slipped a tooth, maybe two on the fuel pump. I don't think that would have caused it. I suppose the over reving would. No marks on the pistons from a valve hitting but that doesn't mean it didn't.
Hence why I'm going to strip the head completely and check all the valves aren't sticking or something else. Pointless putting it back without checking.
I think the bent exhaust push rod, maybe could cause the smoke? Only one bent is the strange thing.
I will check the others but that one was obvious....lol
 
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