I suffered a Run away diesel

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currymunster said:
I've turned it over by hand and it seemed fine. Then when I checked my camera, low and behold the recovery scrotes have started it and moved it 3 times at the recovery yard. Even when the RAC key tag said "does not run." The first time I can hear one say to another. "Doesn't start. My arse!"
They could have done more damage as when I got it back, the oil was just below the actual dipstick. 😕
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You should supply that info to the recovery company in a complaint form. That way you may be able to claim for some damage
 
steve2286w said:
Scary vid particularly if you’re nit sure what’s happening, hope you get it sorted soon
Can any bits get pushed through inlet valves
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Admittedly there's some air flow, but there is when I try to suck up rivet ends with my Henry in the workshop, and they don't easily carry up the hose.

What I'm saying is I reckon most bits will end up in a pool of oil in the bottom of the intercooler, rather than ever make it up hill to the inlet manifold.


...hopefully.
 
Oh dear, the repair is not as easy as I thought it would be. Its running. thats a start but with clouds of white smoke from the exhaust. okay idling but as soon as you drive it is terrible. it not coolant. that is fine. it's too hot too check anything now.
what do you guys think. valve, rings. head gasket. valve stem oil seals. its so bad its not drivable :-(

What I've done.
Cleaned every thing including intercooler, inlet manifold and all pipes
New(old) compressor housing
New(old) exhaust manifold
brand new CHRA from Mellet turbos at £210
New gaskets and studs and nuts.
still original actuator. (should i see it move when i rev the engine or will it only work under load????
 
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Lots and lots of white smoke

hi everybody, Just joined the forum, I was wondering if some one. Could shed some light on a little problem I'm having. So I have a 2002 Range Rover vouge 3.0 td6, And yesterday I was traveling around and I started to hear a slight whine/whistle then about 2-3 minutes later it turned into a...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk

Any clues here
 
steve2286w said:
Are the hoses sound before and after turbo, and not collapsing inside, another thread I searched mentioned goosed lift pump…?


Also here

www.defendersource.com

300tdi white smoke after runaway!

www.defendersource.com www.defendersource.com
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Lots of things to check. injectors for one. pretty sure all the hoses are good as i've removed them all and cleaned them all up.
i had an old 300tdi kept stalling due to the inside delaminated. the elbow on the compressor housing.
I initially thought it was oil but reading it could be completely unburnt fuel. that could be a buggered valve or piston ring or injectors. like I said. starts on the button. idles perfect. soon as you drive it, clouds of white smoke. when you stop it carries on for a minute then stops while idling again. If the actuator isn't working what would that cause???
 
Not sure I didn’t fit the turbo I to my series , running as a di, but sounds like it’s worth a check does the actuator move if you get some pliers on lever , also you can use a foot pump connected to see it it moves too
1 bar about 15psi
 
steve2286w said:
Not sure I didn’t fit the turbo I to my series , running as a di, but sounds like it’s worth a check does the actuator move if you get some pliers on lever , also you can use a foot pump connected to see it it moves too
1 bar about 15psi
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The lever on the manifold works perfect but like an idiot I didn't check the actuator. i'll get a foot pump on it tonight or tomorrow.
Thinking a compression test would be useful but I haven't got one :(
Injectors are going to need testing too. not got that tool either :(
 
Timing would be the first thing to re-check.

And air leaks into the fuel if you've been messing with any of the fuel line connections.

If you're 100% sure these are good then start looking at other stuff, but, if you have messed with the fuel lines, my money would be on them.

I've not read the whole lot - have you done the belt post incident?
 
julianf said:
Timing would be the first thing to re-check.

And air leaks into the fuel if you've been messing with any of the fuel line connections.

If you're 100% sure these are good then start looking at other stuff, but, if you have messed with the fuel lines, my money would be on them.

I've not read the whole lot - have you done the belt post incident?
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Hiya,
thanks for your reply. I've not touched any of the fuel lines.
Not touched the timing belt.
I suppose the timing belt could have jumped a tooth with the over reving. not my first thought but could be.
 
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Just been out and had a half hour ponder.
Actuator fully operates with foot pump, 18 Psi( old halfrauds pump )
re-checked FIP diaphram and boost pin as I took it apart to clean all the oil out from the run away incident.
all okay but all I know is the pin needs to face the 3 o clock position which it does.
Removed rocker cover and all okay in there, no broken springs or caps missing. collets all okay.
still warm so i left the valve clearances.

as a last thought. could it be something simple like loads of oil in the exhaust. what colour would that be....white...blue...black???
 
Oil in exhaust wouldn't cause significantly poor running.

If it's revved it's proverbial tits off, I guess the belt could have gone out. It's simple enough to check - simpler if you have one of those red box kits but simple enough with a drill and a torch k torch to peer though the bell housing drain hole and watch for the slot whilst your friend manually turns the engine, drill to check the pump when that's done)
 
The lift pumps die all the time in various different ways. Do you still get resistance on the manual lever when it's off the cam?

And if you loosen the banjo on the top of the filter and pump the arm, does a decent amount of fuel come out on an arm stroke?

The diaprham in the pump can do odd things when it breaks. I've never had one suck in air but I'd not be surprised if they sometimes do (I've had them fill the engine oil with diesel before)
 
julianf said:
Oil in exhaust wouldn't cause significantly poor running.

If it's revved it's proverbial tits off, I guess the belt could have gone out. It's simple enough to check - simpler if you have one of those red box kits but simple enough with a drill and a torch k torch to peer though the bell housing drain hole and watch for the slot whilst your friend manually turns the engine, drill to check the pump when that's done)
Click to expand...
Don't know what a red box kit is. I have air con so life will be more difficult again I expect :(:(
 
currymunster said:
Just been out and had a half hour ponder.
Actuator fully operates with foot pump, 18 Psi( old halfrauds pump )
re-checked FIP diaphram and boost pin as I took it apart to clean all the oil out from the run away incident.
all okay but all I know is the pin needs to face the 3 o clock position which it does.
Removed rocker cover and all okay in there, no broken springs or caps missing. collets all okay.
still warm so i left the valve clearances.

as a last thought. could it be something simple like loads of oil in the exhaust. what colour would that be....white...blue...black???
Click to expand...

Oil in the exhaust wouldn't really burn until it was proper hot.

Turbo leaking oil on the compressor side and you get loads of "burning tyres" smoke as the oil runs though the engine, but, once it's in a cool ish exhaust it's not really going to do a whole load more.

It would burn up in a hot exhaust manifold but there wouldn't be a lot left in there. And I doubt the rest of the exhaust probably would get hot enough in the sort of tests you're doing to burn anything further on.
 
currymunster said:
Don't know what a red box kit is. I have air con so life will be more difficult again I expect :(:(
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You get a kit that has various locking pins in it. It's mainly for changing the fuel pump as it has bits to lock / hold the pump sprocket without it loosing position.

But it has a nice spring loaded pin that screws into the bell housing drain plug too, that locks into the fly wheel groove.

You can 100% check the timing without it though. Again torch and eyeball the slot as your friend moves the crank. It whizzes past in the blink of an eye though.

If you have the rocker cover off, you can get tdc from the valves also, but you would need to look up exactly how as I don't remember the detail.

Torch looking though the hole is less thought!
 
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