Freelander 1 Hypothetical discussion - lowering FL 1 Overall gear ratio.

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The injectors were done on their own. They increased power noticeably with a massive increase in black smoke. The injectors I seem to remember were marked with a lower break open pressure. So open earlier and close later so put more fuel in
 
Next I put a new turbo on cos original was knackered couldn't tell you the spec. I just made sure I put the latest type. I fitted a manual valve to set the boost to 19psi. After that came the evry mod. Then recently the decat and silencer removal.
 
Hi DD, one of the big issues with modding the L series is the dreaded 'black smoke' - the over rich (considerably over rich) condition. The engine DCU has no way of knowing this is occurring (it has built in smoke maps that can be adjusted in a remap - as of course can the quantity injected providing the parameters and components used are known.)
This is one of the weird issues with SDi injectors in Freelander L series - you mention massively increased black smoke. However, then fitting an EVRY mod could only make this worse as that also increases fuelling. In that area the results are not logical if you look at it objectively and I see no way it can be explained - I am not saying that was not the situation you achieved, I am simply saying it is illogical if you think about it. - . AFAIK, the opening pressure on the SDi injectors is around the same as the L series Freelander ( but very different though compared to the sdi in a 25 / 45), I believe the spray nozzle is very slightly different as well.
Whichever :), damn good output though ;)
Joe
 
Evry mod didn't make much difference. It still smokes like a bitch. Want a remap but not until I'm happy with it all
 
Diesel Do said:
Evry mod didn't make much difference. It still smokes like a bitch. Want a remap but not until I'm happy with it all
Click to expand...
Hi DD,
The SDi injectors make a tremendous difference if fitting to a rover 25 / 45 engine, but not to a Freelander where they can potentially make a small amount (it is IMO debatable as to if it is worth the cost and the effort.)
They certainly should not make a HUGE difference and should definitely not produce 'bitch like smoking' ;) ....
Seriously !. Something is wrong there mate.
Can I suggest that you remove the SDi injectors and replace with the original ones - again - IMO there is not 'much' difference on the freelander - perhaps you have an issue with the needle lift sensor ? (that certainly could explain 'smoking like a 'beatch !') but not a feeling of power increase.
Then adjust the fuelling via the EVRY mod. You should easily be able to get the same or more power without those injectors as the injectors have caused an issue that should not have happened. You should also get the extra power without the smoking. There is definitely something amiss with those injectors.
Joe.
 
Great thread chaps - sorry I missed it first time round! :D

Changing the FD ratio is straightforward - and as noted, there are a huge range to choose from, but the 4.2:1 is perhaps the easiest and best "low range" ratio to obtain.

Further advantages can be obtained by using a different gearset - the "G" is probably best in this regard (found in the MG ZR160) - but what I have not researched is whether this is compatible with the "U" gearbox shafts, but I suspect that they are...
 
rob_bell said:
Great thread chaps - sorry I missed it first time round! :D

Changing the FD ratio is straightforward - and as noted, there are a huge range to choose from, but the 4.2:1 is perhaps the easiest and best "low range" ratio to obtain.

Further advantages can be obtained by using a different gearset - the "G" is probably best in this regard (found in the MG ZR160) - but what I have not researched is whether this is compatible with the "U" gearbox shafts, but I suspect that they are...
Click to expand...
Hi Rob
Yes, it would appear that the final drive can be changed from any other U suffix box - the shaft bearing journal width is larger on the U if I remember correctly - as well as the dual bearing setup being different - I think the bearing housing in the casings are larger as well..
One would need to change the output shaft and the final drive ring gear at the same time as the final drive gear is part of the output shaft assembly.
By the ZR160 box I presume you mean the G4BSV model. From what I have gleaned the G is the gear kit (ratios) the 4 is the final drive designater and the BS suffix with the V is unknown to me ? -BST is limited slip Diff - Torsen - BPQ is same but Quaife - maybe the BS'V' just refers to the VVC ? (it will HAVE to be a U model definitely) - edit - actually - maybe NOT ! - it would appear the Elise VVC had a NON U box !. - maybe it is a non u with a slippy diff ??? - dunno..
That is an interesting box though :) . Personally I would only be looking for a change in final drive as the other ratios in the S7EMU box are fine.
there is some interesting data here as well -http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Rover_PG1_gearbox
It would be amazing to have a selectable 4.2 and standard final drive... :eek: - but, I doubt anyone would make one :D
I am STILL waiting for the brake parts form the UK. ! - with them fitted, I will then remap the L series and see how it performs. I may well be happy. The realistic increase in Torque from remap & boost increase (on later turbo) figures by Kris is amazing. It should pull tree stumps :cool:
Joe:)
 
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Yes, the G4BSV. I've converted mine to a G4BP, with a plan to finally convert it to G4BPT ;) (I should add that this is for a track MGF! But a G4EMU would be good for a Freelander?)

G is the ratio set. 4 is the final drive. B is the speedo drive ratio and S is the clutch actuation. I don't know what V stands for? Not for VVC I am afraid... If a Quaife, it will have a Q suffix. If the suffix is a "T", then it'll have a Torsen LSD diff :) The U suffix is for uprated - as you describe :)

A selectable FDR? That'd be neat - but I don't know if it has ever been done?
 
rob_bell said:
Yes, the G4BSV. I've converted mine to a G4BP ;)

G is the ratio set. 4 is the final drive. B is the speedo drive ratio and S is the clutch actuation. I don't know what V stands for? Not for VVC I am afraid... If a Quaife, it will have a Q suffix. If the suffix is a "T", then it'll have a Torsen LSD diff :) The U suffix is for uprated - as you describe :)

A selectable FDR? That'd be neat - but I don't know if it has ever been done?
Click to expand...
Excellent info Rob - I didn't have the decode for the B and S !... I did edit the above post as it may NOT be a U box - I noticed the Elise VVC had a non U box...

So you are not running a U box either ? - AFAIK BHP / rpm isn't the issue for the U - it is Torque that is the limiter. :) - I should be WELL over that limit when the mapping is done along with the turbo tweaks and decat etc.. :D -
 
The G4BPT will be for a VVC 160 engine that I plan to build with a gas-flowed head (Dave Andrews), solid cams and throttle bodies. I'd be hoping for close to 200 bhp, but not stonking torque. But it may be sensible to rebuild with metal caged bearings to get somewhere close to the "U" spec.

Perhaps the original designation of G4BSV will become apparent when I open the box? o_O
 
And for the turbo project, a C6BPU would probably be the most sensible option! :)

Actually, having briefly driven a 1.8T powered MGTF, it could probably do with even longer ratios that is provided in a C6 - although a diesel box might be a bit OTT. There again, if you could drop the FDR by using a S4BPTU combination...? Food for thought...!
 
rob_bell said:
And for the turbo project, a C6BPU would probably be the most sensible option! :)

Actually, having briefly driven a 1.8T powered MGTF, it could probably do with even longer ratios that is provided in a C6 - although a diesel box might be a bit OTT. There again, if you could drop the FDR by using a S4BPTU combination...? Food for thought...!
Click to expand...
That will be a bit of a beast - to say the least. ;)
Which is the C6BP U box off Rob ? - is that a version of the KV6 MG ? - also, an S4 box would be a 4.2 final drive - surely you wouldn't want that ?:eek:
A 7'U'' final drive would be good with the C gear set :D

The chart on the previous page is slightly wrong on the FD of the C4BP as well, that should be a 4.2 FD. I am glad you filled in the gaps with the 3rd and 4th character.

Joe:)
 
I'd have to build a C6BPU, assuming that non-U gears can be fitted in a U box (if you get my drift!)

The turbo TF was great, but I was having to change gears so frequently, progress would likely to be faster over all with taller gears!
 
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