Hubs, front, need one?

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Cool, so a later hub cannot be fitted, even wrongly, the axle isnt original to the vehicle you see so I have no real history on it or any bodge jobs that may have been dont to it in the past..
theres 2 lengths of stub axle ,later been shorter early been long which also has tab washer slot
 
theres 2 lengths of stub axle ,later been shorter early been long which also has tab washer slot

That means the hub would still sit tight to the swivel housing but the drive member would either cover or leave too much stub axle showing, so you cant really get it wrong and still make it work? So that means the existing hub is right? Thats how Im reading it, and not being able to get drag means the race must be turning?
 
That means the hub would still sit tight to the swivel housing but the drive member would either cover or leave too much stub axle showing, so you cant really get it wrong and still make it work? So that means the existing hub is right? Thats how Im reading it, and not being able to get drag means the race must be turning?
yes but no drag would indicate bearings arent been compressed enough,have you got the spacer washer between bearing and nut,do the bearings spin easily on the stub
 
All went together how it came apart, had to whack it off and tap it on again. I will have to strip it out again and have a look at it.
 
Ok, so stripped it, sanded clean the stub axle, bearings move freely but tight , especially tight at the beginning of the stub, reassembled and still no drag!
I looks like, the tab spacer between nut and bearing is reaching the end of the recess in the stub axle, I could see damage on the end of the recess as it slopes upward. This means that the nut cannot tighten all the way to lock the bearings. So either something is missing or the stub and/or hub has badly worn, we already know the hub is worn but thats a hell of a lot of wear to cause that. Surely that key washer (12) shouldn't go back far enough to foul at the end of the recess in the stub axle?
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Looking at the stub axle, the only thing that could cause the nut to go tight and not tighten the bearings is the nut running out of thread?
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In a last desperate attempt to get this sorted, I put on a second key washer, so thats two key washers between nut and bearing, still wont drag the bearing, I used just the nut to bearing to make sure it went home Ok and it tightened right up to the bearing, so, why wont these bearings compress?
The races went in Ok, as stated the inner race didn't take much and can be rotated by hand so that has to be the problem?
 
In a last desperate attempt to get this sorted, I put on a second key washer, so thats two key washers between nut and bearing, still wont drag the bearing, I used just the nut to bearing to make sure it went home Ok and it tightened right up to the bearing, so, why wont these bearings compress?
The races went in Ok, as stated the inner race didn't take much and can be rotated by hand so that has to be the problem?
the rear race would be pushed against the raised seal boss
 
the rear race would be pushed against the raised seal boss

The inner race? The outer race gets drifted into the hub, its the race drifted into the hub that can be rotated by hand.
I suspect the inner race is against the boss, the hub goes on with a good solid feel as its thrust onto the stub axle.
Im totally at a loss with this, Im thinking just leave as is and run it, there is no play in the bearings with the wheel on.
 
The inner race? The outer race gets drifted into the hub, its the race drifted into the hub that can be rotated by hand.
I suspect the inner race is against the boss, the hub goes on with a good solid feel as its thrust onto the stub axle.
Im totally at a loss with this, Im thinking just leave as is and run it, there is no play in the bearings with the wheel on.
outer races spin freely in the hub ,how lose are they?
 
outer races spin freely in the hub ,how lose are they?

Ive never had one spin freely James, I have always had to drift them in and out with a hammer and drift.

The one on the inner side of the hub didn't take much at all and will rotate but without play, the race on the outside end of the hub had to be drifted in.
 
As long as the outer race that spins has no side to side movement fix it in place with bearing lock, it wont move the stuff is a lot stronger in sheer than thread lock.
 
Inner one will, but ive never had one before that did that.
One thing though, 14 years ago I had a bearing seize in this hub, it was the outer bearing, I had to cut it out! But I am sure ive replaced the bearing again during the 14 years and I have always set them by inducing drag then letting off slightly, The old bearings were quite loose and have been for quite some time, im thinking the hub and/or stub are just worn out, buts its a really odd one because the bearings still should compress.
 
Inner one will, but ive never had one before that did that.
One thing though, 14 years ago I had a bearing seize in this hub, it was the outer bearing, I had to cut it out! But I am sure ive replaced the bearing again during the 14 years and I have always set them by inducing drag then letting off slightly, The old bearings were quite loose and have been for quite some time, im thinking the hub and/or stub are just worn out, buts its a really odd one because the bearings still should compress.
to set the wheel bearing all you need to do is just remove any free play, whn tightening the outer nut it gives a little extra nip
 
to set the wheel bearing all you need to do is just remove any free play, whn tightening the outer nut it gives a little extra nip

Thats what I do by backing off, I dont know James, Ive always been able to induce drag on the bearing, until now. There is no play when its all tightened up so I might just run it and check it after a few miles. I have until Monday to make sure its safe and usable so a good drive in it tomorrow morning will tell me if its working or not.
 
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