htr
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,554
- Location
- Central Otago, Southern New Zealand
Things I've done that can help prolong HG life:
- a careful cleaning of the cooling / heating system - I use a citric acid solution, lots of water after that and an air line of finish up with
- a good radiator - I renewed mine - update June 2017 New rad' failed no support from LRD so I had to buy another- choose a rad' marketed by Bearmach, bought from LRD.
- replace coolant and heater hoses
- replaced that coolant pump along with the cam belt and tensioner
- relocated the thermostat [PRT] and ‘gut’ the original to allow coolant flow
- my liners were at uneven heights. A asked around and took the advice of fitting a Payen BW750 elastompolimer gasket with metal dowels
- new head bolts of course
- fitted a strengthened bottom oil rail
- I ground out the casting flash… from the coolant passages in the head with my Dremel and a TC burr
- replaced the coolant expansion tank and cap. - this is a more recent photo - the black spots were some greasy stuff - prob' remnants from earlier motor work.
- put a little sealant around either end of the IMG prior to fitting AND checked that the jiggle valve [circled ] was working.
- used deionised water for my red OAT coolant mix [50% solution]
- fitted an engine oil cooler with a thermostatically controlled take off on the filter mounting - also added an oil pressure sensor to the filter mounting.
- Added a low coolant warning LED to dash binnacle - [see Hippo’s threads]
- I've had to replace two coolant bottles as the newer ones crack / craze around the base of the neck and loose pressure & coolant.
Other work done:
fitted 5 Bridgestone ATs
replaced the springs - Dobinsons
replaced the diff side seals
replaced disc rotors and pads - put a seal kit in the callipers & replaced fluid
renewed the VCU and bearings
replaced LH drive flange [I managed to bend it!], bearing and seal
replaced LH drive shaft OS
flowed oil pump internals [see the k-engine page for info' on this]
de-burred IM
de-burred EM, down pipe
de-catted exhaust
replaced cam belt covers [ they were seriously damaged when the cam belt moved for the previous owner!]
removed ’step’ from lower side of valve seats
smoothed valve guide protrusions
opened up inlet and exhaust runners
replaced the camshaft seals
fitted an oil pressure and oil temperature gauge
replaced fuel pump and filter, replaced dist’ cap, rotor and plug leads
fitted an auxiliary fuse box
fitted auxiliary high current power sockets [F & R]
Fitted DRLs [LEDs] and relay
Fitted new play head [ CD -USB- Bluetooth]
fitted a reverse camera
modified rear lamp set-up
fitted DVRs - front & rear
fitted a TPMS
fitted a front alloy sump plate
fitted a CAF & K&N Apollo AF
removed surface rust spots from leading edge of sills
made drain holes in front mud flaps
replaced mesh on scuttle air intake
fitted LED interior lamps
fitted auxillary power socket to load area
fitted a ‘cubby box’ arm rest to front
sealed rusted sunroof frame
fitted window louvers
Bought a second set of 15" rims and fitted Maxxis Bravo 215 75 15 Mts
Bridgestone A/Ts 697
New Maxxis M/Ts
fitted a muffler protection plate.
Work still to do:
replace the front LH drive shaft OS [again!] √ now done along with the driveshaft too.
replace drop links - esp RH side
replace anti roll bar bushes - √ now done.
replace brake hoses all round and brake fluid √ now done.
replace centre diff' mount
replace rear muffler & rubber hangers √ now done
fit a rear facing DVR √ now done
fit 23mm white LEDs as rev' lamps √ now done
fit 23mm Red LED's rear fog 'lamps' √ now done but now removed - WoF fail = MoT
make and fit 40mm lift kit
make and fit bolt on recovery point [unbolt t'ball]
may fit a VVC inlet manifold as plastic ones are a weak point for IMG leaks
colour coded items will be done together - I hope!
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