How un(reliable) would a 2.5 DSE P38a be?

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MikeV8SE

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OK, I appreciate this is a pretty open question, but having sold my V8 Classic I need a more economical replacement that will safely take me around Wales' greenlanes, across the Pyrennes, down to Morocco and back and, possibly, a trip to Iceland too. Not all at the same time, of course.

I did look at Disco 1's but they just don't have the same appeal, for me it's all about Range Rover's. However, I am really struggling to find a decent Tdi Classic for sensible money, especially a 300Tdi with an auto box and leather, which I want.

However, DSE P38's are plentiful, nearly all auto's and have leather too. I know they are more complex than the Classic, but assuming the air suspension is in good nick, or has been replaced by coil sprung units (which would be OK as I'd need the extra ground clearance anyway), are they really that much more complicated and unreliable than a Classic? As if not, there's no reason why one of these would not do the job admirably!

Also, can you run a DSE on a veg oil/diesel mix? I know the older Tdi's can, and I know certain BMW diesel engine can quite happily too - is this one of them?
 
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I reckon that they are not too bad, trouble is that as a 10 year old car the maintenance has often been neglected. Stupid things like leak off pipes for example. The EAS is great if the airbags are in good nick. If doing long trips it would be worth doing an overhaul of the EAS. Worth buying a Faultmate too. Mine was fault free for nearly 2 years but the auto box has recently started playing up. I don't think it's up to the extra torque produced with a power box. More reliable than the Nissan I had before it.
There's a recent thread on veggie oil.
 
Cheers Datatek - pretty much what I expected! I reckon an expedition-prepared P38a would be brilliant!
 
Hi Mike,
mine has done 150K and runs fine (touch wood) there are lots with starship mileage so they must do something right, the auto does seem to be the best option and my one has the cloth interior which is remarkably fresh looking for its age and mileage, would not discount one with cloth, service history and condition is far more important, you could easily fit a leather interior. Some say they are too slow but if you don't drive like a boy racer they are fine, better power and economy than the Pajero I had previously. Coils tbh do give peace of mind and I would not change mine back even though some think its wrong, gives predictable handling and good stability but they do sit high so if anyone has any mobility issues getting in and out can be difficult, As usual with these motors they do suffer from well documented electical/electronic problems.
Hope you find a good one.
Davie
 
I bought a 99 DSE with 105000 miles on the clock last April and used it for travelling up to Scotland and the Outer Hebrides and then took it across the channel to Europe and travelled in France, Switzerland, Italy, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo,Montenegro, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Romania, Bulgaria, Austria, Germany, Belgium and then back to UK. On the whole I did about 28000 miles, changed the oil 3 times Using fully synthetic.Bought 2 new tyres and 1 second-hand one and had a centre console changed in Kosovo because all the widows did not work.
Had flat battery a couple of times and lock out issues and also a passenger door lock failure so the wife had to climb in from drivers side for a couple of months until I got a new lock when we got back.
The fuel seem to average 27 miles to the gallon and that includes so low range work in Greece and Turkey and also some other Off road work.
I am very pleased with the vehicle and hope to take it further afied next trip like to Russia Mongolia and maybe to Australia but that in the future and plans are flexible.
I would recomend anyone with basic knowledge of the P38 to use it as an expedition vehicle
 
I bought a 99 DSE with 105000 miles on the clock last April and used it for travelling up to Scotland and the Outer Hebrides and then took it across the channel to Europe and travelled in France, Switzerland, Italy, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo,Montenegro, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Romania, Bulgaria, Austria, Germany, Belgium and then back to UK. On the whole I did about 28000 miles.

I would recomend anyone with basic knowledge of the P38 to use it as an expedition vehicle

Wow! :eek: That's one hell of a list of countries visited - well done! Sounds like you've enjoyed the car too - can I ask what, if any, modifications you made to it or equipment you carried? What sort of proportion of your trips was on low-quality rutted roads, or offroad entirely?

Also, have you got any pictures of the vehicle loaded up and 'on tour?'
 
The Vehicle loaded up and on tour looks no different to a basic RR no roof rack or bull bar but i do have a bed rigged up in the back and some storage boxes under it .also carry a ring power pack as i run a compter at night. Have a set of snow chains but only used them oncealtough i did go though a town in Turkey that was -26 C,
I would advise you not to get irelli tyres as they were the ones that gave me most trouble and had to replace them after 15000 miles I got stung by Scorpions.
 
Thanks for the info. Any images of the bed and drawer setup inside? That sounds exactly like the sort of thing I would look to arrange.

Cheers!
 
Wow! :eek: That's one hell of a list of countries visited - well done! Sounds like you've enjoyed the car too - can I ask what, if any, modifications you made to it or equipment you carried? What sort of proportion of your trips was on low-quality rutted roads, or offroad entirely?

Also, have you got any pictures of the vehicle loaded up and 'on tour?'

Is this the bloke who brings all the illegals back?:D:D:D
 
OK, I STILL cannot find a decent Tdi Range Rover Classic for sensible money anywhere – the odd ropey hack pops up, and then there’s the odd mint example at silly money, but nothing that’s half decent for reasonable money anywhere!

So, I am considering dipping my toe into the ‘exciting and eventful’ world of P38a’s. Having spoken to a couple of expedition companies, apparently they actually make very good expedition vehicles, as long as the electrics are OK and air suspension is sorted – which is vital, given I plan on driving it to Morocco next year and around Scandinavia or Iceland the year after!!

So, two questions I guess:

1. Can you get a decent DT/DSE for £2k? Maybe £2.5k if I really had to?

2. In addition to all the usual checks, what should you check specifically on P38’s? And is there anything specific to the diesels? Is the DT better for its simplicity over the DSE?

Of course, if anyone knows of a decent DSE for sale within budget and somewhere near SE England, please do let me know!

Cheers :)
 
i've been watching ebay of late, and decent diesels seem to fetch 3k pretty consistently.
 
OK, I STILL cannot find a decent Tdi Range Rover Classic for sensible money anywhere – the odd ropey hack pops up, and then there’s the odd mint example at silly money, but nothing that’s half decent for reasonable money anywhere!

So, I am considering dipping my toe into the ‘exciting and eventful’ world of P38a’s. Having spoken to a couple of expedition companies, apparently they actually make very good expedition vehicles, as long as the electrics are OK and air suspension is sorted – which is vital, given I plan on driving it to Morocco next year and around Scandinavia or Iceland the year after!!

So, two questions I guess:

1. Can you get a decent DT/DSE for £2k? Maybe £2.5k if I really had to?

2. In addition to all the usual checks, what should you check specifically on P38’s? And is there anything specific to the diesels? Is the DT better for its simplicity over the DSE?

Of course, if anyone knows of a decent DSE for sale within budget and somewhere near SE England, please do let me know!

Cheers :)
Having now owned my P38dt for 3 months all I can say is get one!! Be prepared to put some time in to make sure EAS works properly (software and lead = sorted). By the nature of the beast they will not have been abused off road as the equivelant Disco or classic may have been, so no nasty surprises with bearings/bushes etc. Personally I would go for manual not auto as less electronics and the good old proven r380 box is quite a robust unit with the added advantage of having an oil cooler fitted so making it even better for any future expedition work. VCU in the tranny can give problems but available out there for decent money (just replaced mine at cost of £50 - s/hand).
For expedition work you have many advantages with the air springs, always be at the same level no matter what weight carried, can be driven on tarmac at normal height but at the touch of a button raised to give clearance and if replacing air bags as part of preperation work why not install Arnott 111 bags for more lift.
The boot space is massive and having spare wheel under floor certainly helps, the only downside that I can see with the P38 for expo work is the location of the ecu's under the front seats for wading at any depth.
 
Personally I would go for manual not auto as less electronics and the good old proven r380 box is quite a robust unit with the added advantage of having an oil cooler fitted so making it even better for any future expedition work. VCU in the tranny can give problems but available out there for decent money (just replaced mine at cost of £50 - s/hand).
quote]

Only one ECU less and one that is not known for trouble. The diesel is better suited to the auto box as there is no power low down the rev range which equals a lot of clutch slipping pulling away on a slope when loaded.
 
Only one ECU less and one that is not known for trouble. The diesel is better suited to the auto box as there is no power low down the rev range which equals a lot of clutch slipping pulling away on a slope when loaded.[/quote]
not having to slip my clutch more that I did on my 110, only advantage that I could see with manual over auto is that any roadside / track repairs required on any expo work the manual I think would be a bit easier
 
I wouldn't say the manual R380 box was more robust. I had an output shaft shear in mine just where a roll pin goes through. I was only pulling out of a junction too. Also, the gearchange was crap and the synchro weak on first and second. I'll go along with Data too on the no torque low down until the turbo is spinning. makes pulling out into roundabouts when you're towing something interesting at times:rolleyes:
 
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