1988smithy
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Your man on lrtime didn't preload did he? Think his new bushes lasted less than 12months. A case of jacking the arm up til hub is at ride height? How many recip blades did you go thru??
Disco 2 how to remove rear radius arms easily
- Thread starter Kaijun
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Your man on lrtime didn't preload did he? Think his new bushes lasted less than 12months. A case of jacking the arm up til hub is at ride height? How many recip blades did you go thru??
funny enough I saw that where he is rebuilding the D3, by just torquing up the top knuckle bearing and left the other 2 x loose , unless of course it was the earlier occasion when he didn’t pre load them
think I went through around 15 x blades as didn’t realise at first the bolts were toughened steel
also seen some that forget to out the bump stop plastic insert into the wishbone buses as in the picture , one saving grace was getting the bush extractor kit for the upper knuckle bushes , rest came pre installed in the wishbones
Kaijun
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I got 21 and 24 mm spanner’s from halford. I have removed the bolt to chassis, it should stay there before I loose bolts to axle, the rear bolt has room to use break bar. I use Jack to lift the bar, the bar has been bent but nothing happened.
Has the term we may need a bigger boat bar come to you yet 
.
Perhaps a 3/4 drive socket and bar may be worth investing in. We all only work on LRs so we can have loads of tools dont we? Its a man thing, bit like handbags and wimmins
.
J
.Perhaps a 3/4 drive socket and bar may be worth investing in. We all only work on LRs so we can have loads of tools dont we?
Its a man thing, bit like handbags and wimmins.J
Ahh….the tool addiction affliction. Incurable I’m afraid.Has the term we may need a biggerboatbar come to you yet
Perhaps a 3/4 drive socket and bar may be worth investing in. We all only work on LRs so we can have loads of tools dont we?
J
TBH, the images above don’t show any heavy corrosion and I’m surprised it’s taking so much effort to shift these !!
1988smithy
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Your defo turning it the right way??
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Kaijun
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mot guy told me that I need to change it, it will fail next year. Anyway only whack conquer them.
PopPops
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It’s worth hitting the bolt with a hammer when the bar is lifted with the jack. It could shock the bolt free.
I have on occasion in a situation like this ground part of the nut away without touching the bolt thread, leaving enough to still grip with a 6 sided socket. It both weakens the nuts grip, and heats it up. If that fails, change the grinding disc to a cutting disc 
Kaijun
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Here is a problem, rear bolt to axle is not sliding out for watts linkage on the way? It seems to me bolt head should be at outside. But all rear bolts are fastened same way, driver side rear bolt has clear space. How did you guys handle this?
Have you got it jacked up on the axle ?? If so, jack it up on the chassis and let the axle drop.
Kaijun
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For safety, I have jacked both up, near the bolt to chassis is good jack point?
You need a good set of axle stands long enough to support the chassis only. I think you need to let the axle fully drop and hopefully that will give the bolt clearance to come out.
1988smithy
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This
Kaijun
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Sorry I meant stand point
Has the term we may need a biggerboatbar come to you yet
Perhaps a 3/4 drive socket and bar may be worth investing in. We all only work on LRs so we can have loads of tools dont we?
J
Got too many tools then, she has 1 normal handbag, 1 holiday handbag.
Kaijun
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- Berkshire, U. K.
I got rear bolt out, but front one is at trick position, also blocked by something on axle, need a bit more room 
Mate. That rear drop link bracket is welded to the axle. So that bolt must come out !! How else would they have got it in
And your wheels are still on the ground ?? Not that dropping your axle will help in this instance.
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