How to fit 200TDi rear crank oil seal?

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richardjeaton

richardjeaton

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Wetherby, Leeds, West Yorkshire
I'm currently putting a 200TDi from a Disco into my Defender. I just wanted to check what is the correct way to fit a 200TDi rear crank oil seal?

The old one in the flywheel housing was an absolute git to remove. It was stuck to the housing so had to be chipped off bit by bit with a chisel to clean it up.

I then tried refitting the new seal but because of the hard plastic lip then it wouldn't fit no matter how I tried. The way I did it was to place it in the correct position in the housing, put it over the crankshaft, and then tighten up the flywheel to push it in. This seems to have done but as I've never done one before I'm a bit worried that I might have to pull the engine out again once fitted if I've messed up!!! :doh:

Cheers for any advice

Richard
 
NO NO NO!!!
That will come loose, spin in its housing and empty the sump on the floor.
Look.
Image100.jpg


Take the flywheel off. Then remove the starter motor. Now, take off the fly wheel housing.

Clean up the mating face between that and the block, and run a nice bead a silicon gasket between them. Now, put the housing back on.

Now, push the seal in AS FAR AS YOU CAN, so it looks more like this.
Image101.jpg


PM me if you want more help, cos i had a bit of a problem with mine, as the piccies might suggest :)
 
I found an easy way of getting seals out , Drill 2 small holes in the seal ( not too close to lip ) oposite each other then use a self tapping screws into the holes u just drilled . Put a pair of mole grips on the screw and lever the seal out againt the grips with a good screwdriver ( or heel bar etc ) .

Ive done 4 crank seals ( different vehicles ) cam shaft seals using this method and it works a treat every time :D .


But as Boydy said Dont leave it like that it WILL rip the seal to bits as soon as you fire it up and you'll be well ****ed with yourself ......


.
 
Last edited:
sypher said:
I found an easy way of getting seals out , Drill 2 small holes in the seal ( not too close to lip ) oposite each other then use a self tapping screws into the holes u just drilled . Put a pair of mole grips on the screw and lever the seal out againt the grips with a good screwdriver ( or heel bar etc ) .

Ive done 4 crank seals ( different vehicles ) cam shaft seals using this method and it works a treat every time :D .


But as Boydy said Dont leave it like that it WILL rip the seal to bits as soon as you fire it up and you'll be well ****ed with yourself ......


.
Click to expand...

Thats the way I get seals out aswel, great method, one last point give the crank a clean up with wet and dry to make sure there aint any rags on it to tear the seal and pack the back of the seal with grease to give it a little bit of lube as it starts up for the first few minutes.

A little smear of hylomar on the outer edge to make sure its sealed ok is a good idea, dont like silicone in engines it kills them, gets into an oil way and blocks it. Keep that for the bathrooms.

If the seal has worn a big grove in the crank try and position it further in or a tad back from that bit.
 
Sometimes the inner lip needs gently locating on crank before tap it. I'm guessing not many people have the correct size drift.

Therefore a small tapping hammer and then a punch with flat end
(big as possible without touching lip) gentle taps radially around it will seat it.

Just be careful your tools have no sharp edges and you don't hit it hard or you will split/damage seal.

Seal also must not tip or spring on lip will come off and oil will **** out
 
Thanks for all the info. Typically all I could get on Saturday morning was the Britpart seal (as I was hoping to get the engine in and running over the weekend, obviosuly didn't happen!) but having been advised against these from a few people a genuine LR one has just been ordered and will be going on.

Cheers

Richard
 
richardjeaton said:
Thanks for all the info. Typically all I could get on Saturday morning was the Britpart seal (as I was hoping to get the engine in and running over the weekend, obviosuly didn't happen!) but having been advised against these from a few people a genuine LR one has just been ordered and will be going on.

Cheers

Richard
Click to expand...

Smart move. After fitting 2 pattern seals (a slow learner) a genuine LR stopped the major oil leaks.

Got quite fast at engine swapping though - Out/seal change/back in, in uder 4 hours by the third go. :D

Not sure it needs to be tapped right back in though as stated above (mabye that was my problem).
 
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Well I just took an hour off, went and collected the genuine LR seal (26 quid rather than a fiver for the Britpart!) and got it fitted. I did some headscratching about the plastic bit that comes with it and which way round things fitted but sussed it out in the end.

I fitted the metal ring (with rubber skirt) in the flywheel housing off the engine, "solid" metal facing outwards as in boydy1989's photo above. I then fitted the plastic bit with the fat end inwards so the seal goes over the crank and as you bolt the housing up it pushes the plastic bit off. Simples (now I know what I'm doing) :)

Now I can crack on with the engine fitting :D

Cheers

Richard
 
boydy1989 said:
i hope u ran a bead of sealant round the back of the block, between it and the flywheel housing, or u will have a leak there too...
Click to expand...

Yep don't worry, I'm double checking EVERYTHING as I go along now! :)

Gonna take some time off work tomorrow so hopefully things will progress nicely now :doh: I'm really hoping I can get the engine fitted and started up by tomorrow night :D
 
yeah as boydy said in post 2, otherwise it will spit its self out, sealant as you go ;)

make sure yer tighten yer fly wheel bolts , ask si'


:D :D :D
 
I've got to do mine in the very near future & I ain't l@@king forward to doing it. A long with a Gear box change With New Heavy Duty Clutch.:D:D I am NOT going to brake down on this years Scott Williams Challenge. So double checking all things
 
Been reading this useful thread as have to do mine. Am I right that I have to remove the flywheel housing from the engine to get the seal in or can it be done whilst still on? Any tips on drifting it in??
 
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