How much Waxoyl for my 90???

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BuzzLand said:
Don't listen to the naysayers mate, just go for it and see how it works for you.
Naysayer of the year even said it was with a Merc and not a landie he had the probs so there's mud in the eye ;)

Rust can be dealt with. As long as the wheels keep on churning and moving while the chassis stays strong you'll be fine. :)
Click to expand...

I aint gona spray my merc with hydraulic oil stupidy.:rolleyes: although this winter when its off the road I'm gona experiment with mixes that I can brush on the bad bits, probably grease and hydraulic oils the first port of call, I greased all the brake pipes and that seemed to have preserved them, 9 years old and still perfect.

If you research you will find that old engine oil causes corrosion, and so does diesel, thats why I used hydraulic or trans oil. It soaks into the rust and all the cracks, something that waxoyl dont do. hammerite is good on new metal but total **** on rusty stuff. But if you are spraying oils a good mask is required because the vapours can cause a type of pnemonia.

The rust gels are fairly useless aswel, tried a few of them over the years, and the acid etch paints, looks good for a bit then a big scab falls off because it rotted underneath

Best to do more research, although plenty on here if you look or google it, but once you cover it with waxoyl its too late, and remember you cant wire brush the inside of your chassis, I drilled holes in mine and fooked the oil into it.
 
david451 said:
I aint gona spray my merc with hydraulic oil stupidy.:rolleyes: although this winter when its off the road I'm gona experiment with mixes that I can brush on the bad bits, probably grease and hydraulic oils the first port of call, I greased all the brake pipes and that seemed to have preserved them, 9 years old and still perfect.

If you research you will find that old engine oil causes corrosion, and so does diesel, thats why I used hydraulic or trans oil. It soaks into the rust and all the cracks, something that waxoyl dont do. hammerite is good on new metal but total **** on rusty stuff. But if you are spraying oils a good mask is required because the vapours can cause a type of pnemonia.

The rust gels are fairly useless aswel, tried a few of them over the years, and the acid etch paints, looks good for a bit then a big scab falls off because it rotted underneath

Best to do more research, although plenty on here if you look or google it, but once you cover it with waxoyl its too late, and remember you cant wire brush the inside of your chassis, I drilled holes in mine and fooked the oil into it.
Click to expand...

So is Waxoyl hydraulic oil? I meant Waxoyl not Hyd in that case :D

As the only person I've heard of seeing poor results from Acid Etch and hammerite I'll agree to differ with you on that one rabbit man :)
 
I used to spray the wifes MGB with waxoil every year,inside the chassis and all the underside,she drove it for 12 years summer and winter and it was still solid when we sold it 5 years ago .I only had to replace the inner and outer sills,back hangers,boot floor,petrol tank,footwells,wings,both doors and all the chrome trim.:eek:
 
Hi
nice one daz like the triggers broom MG! lol sorry only joking.
Hey roger rabbit what the deal with the trans oil? only ask as i have resisted the urge to waxoyl the world! lol
Seriously though, i know rust is a relentless beast and as one fine gent says if the wheels are still rolling and the chassis still strong, there aint no probs;)
But i still want to hurt the oxidisation of the steel.
Why is my 23year old chassis so clean right where the engine sits? when i remove this miricall formlai of oil, grit, presumably derv and all manner of grime accumilated over the years..why is that part still factory shiny and lovely?

I hear the inside chassis comment, and yes i did try to wire brush the inside...lol..no i did'nt really. But i was gonna use my underbody seal gun and fill chassis up with used oil, thinned with petrol after i waxoyled the outside. but now i dont know what to do as, oil+derv still corrodes, wax is pap and the olny thing that works is rust bullet and i never heard of it and is blatantly to good to be true:mil15:
 
Vagrent said:
Hi
nice one daz like the triggers broom MG! lol sorry only joking.
Hey roger rabbit what the deal with the trans oil? only ask as i have resisted the urge to waxoyl the world! lol
Seriously though, i know rust is a relentless beast and as one fine gent says if the wheels are still rolling and the chassis still strong, there aint no probs;)
But i still want to hurt the oxidisation of the steel.
Why is my 23year old chassis so clean right where the engine sits? when i remove this miricall formlai of oil, grit, presumably derv and all manner of grime accumilated over the years..why is that part still factory shiny and lovely?

I hear the inside chassis comment, and yes i did try to wire brush the inside...lol..no i did'nt really. But i was gonna use my underbody seal gun and fill chassis up with used oil, thinned with petrol after i waxoyled the outside. but now i dont know what to do as, oil+derv still corrodes, wax is pap and the olny thing that works is rust bullet and i never heard of it and is blatantly to good to be true:mil15:
Click to expand...

I think the engine areas are kept good by heat and protection from direct contact with the elements, they are usually coated in all sorts horrible stuff. Spraying good oil on the other areas would do the same thing, they do that with sheet metal, however you need to protect it from washing off, probably waxoyl on top. The main issues are stopping the chemical reaction once its started "rust" it holds water and you need to replace that with something that keeps the water out, oil?

Petrol in a chassis is gona burn your motor, woosh
 
yeah good point:) how do you make a landy go woof? hah
ok thats what i am gonna do, good coating of oil then seal the lot in a fine wrapper of waxoyl.. ;) nice that should do me till i ca afford a galv chassis!
Cheers dave:)
 
I filled the sills of my MG up with NEW engine oil (20/50) and jacked the front up on night, and the rear up the next (to wash it around inside) - worked a treat

The trick i'm told is to get the thing completly dry (i.e. in a heated garage for a week) before you start putting oil everywhere as this minimises the amount of water you are going to trap behind the oil (which if you spray will have fine bits of air traped in it)

The engine compartment survives in prestine condition as it too is kept dry by heat and then covered in a layer of thick low volitility oil that cover new metal, that s painted and has no signs of rust there when it got covered - there is no way in hell i'm ever going to clean this off the landy of the MG

i guess putting it in a vacume would also work - perhapse the first landy to enter orbit :mil3:
 
while were loosely on the subject bought a 110 td5 last week and need to clean up the chassis ready to be waxoyled/painted etc. was going to jet wash it a couple of days before. any areas i need to be careful of with sensors and the like. cheers
 
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