Hmmm..... Non starter

Oh, and Merry Christmas to you all

j b are you taking the ****,:crazy:, you posted this in august and your saying you still havent got it running ?

ok ,so you say initially it ran with the aid of easy start,,, the reason it ran using easy start was this was the initial fuel used to get it running , once you got running , the cam sensor signal is not required, and then runs on the diesel supplied by the injectors,and you say when it runs its fine , but once stoped it wont restart.

the reason i suggested you were misled going down the injector leak test route and should replace the cam sensor, as this is a very easy and cheap way to eliminate a potential problem , and the no 1 suspect given the symptoms you describe,

1, are you still able to get it running using easy start
2, is the battery cranking it over fast enough

merry xmas

It will still start with easy start, and the battery was new just before the problem started.

Check the connection and wireing to the cam sensor

Could it be a relay?, checked the volts going to the glow plugs and it was only reading 8 volts.

J_B said:

Could it be a relay?, checked the volts going to the glow plugs and it was only reading 8 volts.

Click to expand...

Have you still not got it sorted?

Have you tried connecting jump leads off another car or battery to see if it will fire up first time off that? Is it turing over and a decent speed or is it sluggish?

Blimey enough of us with the same fault! Hope mine is fixed quicker - will keep you informed of how I do.

Just posted this on another thread but thought I'd stick it here too: A quick thing to check could be your coolant sensor - if it's not working right, the glow plugs won't come on apparently. I also read that with a low voltage on the battery, the glow plugs won't come on either... took this from Rave:

ECT Sensor Resistance
In the event of an ECT sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:
* Difficult cold start.
* Difficult hot start.
* Driveability concerns.
* Temperature gauge reading does not accurately represent the coolant temperature.

Temperature, °C (°F) : Resistance, k
-30 (-22) : 4.916
-20 (-4) : 4.853
-10 (14) : 4.745
0 (32) : 4.584
10 (50) : 4.354
20 (68) : 4.046
30 (86) : 3.660
40 (104) : 3.220
50 (122) : 2.751
60 (140) : 2.267
70 (158) : 1.862
80 (176) : 1.490
90 (194) : 1.182
100 (212) : 0.938
110 (230) : 0.738
120 (248) : 0.581
130 (266) : 0.464

Considering, if you've got a multimeter, it's free to check it, I thought it might be worth a punt.... if it's fine, then you can cross it off the list!

There was no rush to be fixed so it was as and when time permitted, i know it seems like a long time but total hours spent on it were not that much.

Ok, some of you will probably know this from another forum, but finally got the old girl going wed night, so firstly I would like to say thankyou to everyone who posted an idea or suggestion to help me resolve this dilemma.

The problem was failed O-rings on the stop valve, which is situated (for those that don't know) on the end of the H/P pump, taking this off was a little fiddly, but once done and having a look at it you could see the small green o-ring the white support ring were shot to pieces, the third larger o-ring was non existent, replaced the o-rings but unable to sort out the nylon support ring out, no bother though, that'll be sorts this weekend. Anyway once put back together without priming the pumps or pre heating twice it started first time first turn of the key.

Thanks again everyone

J_B said:

There was no rush to be fixed so it was as and when time permitted, i know it seems like a long time but total hours spent on it were not that much.

Ok, some of you will probably know this from another forum, but finally got the old girl going wed night, so firstly I would like to say thankyou to everyone who posted an idea or suggestion to help me resolve this dilemma.

The problem was failed O-rings on the stop valve, which is situated (for those that don't know) on the end of the H/P pump, taking this off was a little fiddly, but once done and having a look at it you could see the small green o-ring the white support ring were shot to pieces, the third larger o-ring was non existent, replaced the o-rings but unable to sort out the nylon support ring out, no bother though, that'll be sorts this weekend. Anyway once put back together without priming the pumps or pre heating twice it started first time first turn of the key.

Thanks again everyone

Click to expand...

glad you finally got it sorted.

All I can say is I hope it isn't as bad as my problem

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/fitting-freelander-td4-starter-pack-150303.html

If you get to this stage let me know.

Have you had it on a TD4 diagnosis computer?

Burger