instantsquid
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Yup - but no different from what a lot of Landys have bolted to the front of them. How are you getting on with the wiring?
High Beam Fail
- Thread starter storm99
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Langers
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- Kent or Shropshire
I'm gonna have a bash at it today
I found a suitable wiring diagram for it, so that will make things easier.Not sure about the details though - for instance the relay, where is best to fit that? Under the bonnet or in the fuse box in the cabin? And where's the best place to splice into the full beam feed to activate the relay?
I'm gonna go to town later to pick up a couple of fuses, one 20a for the battery feed and one 1a for the relay. I have a four point relay, a switch (which will be put into the circuit as a master) and some wire (fairly thin stuff for the lights and 2.5mm for the main battery feed). Anything else you can think of?
instantsquid
New Member
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You got connectors? And a decent crimping tool? (One of the ratcheting ones - the others are pretty useless) Ideally, you'd also have a soldering iron, some heatshrink and a heatgun.
I took the feed for my relays off the blue/white wire coming from the light switch on the stalk. I've got three lighting relays (spots on front and on roof) and they're all mounted behind the fuse holder. Run your switching wire from where it's spliced into the light switch, through your new switch, and down to the relay. The other side of the relay switch should go straight to earth. At this point, you can test your relay is working (listen for the click) with main beam on.
I've got an extra fusebox behind the passenger seat which all my ancilliaries run off. But essentially the wiring is the same. Take a wire from the battery, through the 20A fuse to the relay. Then take a wire from the relay through the bulkhead, along the side of the engine bay to the front of the vehicle where the lights are.
With not much effort you can make a pretty neat job of it. I wanted to be able to disconnect my spotlights, so I bought some Superseal connectors - unfortunately you need a special tool to crimp them onto the wires. Mr Mad Hat Man very kindly offered to put them on for me. An alternative would be those bullet connectors with rubber "boots" which would give the connector a bit of weather protection. If you're not bothered about disconnecting the lights, then you can ignore this paragraph!
One other thing - make sure your lights are well earthed or they won't perform well.
Ian.
I took the feed for my relays off the blue/white wire coming from the light switch on the stalk. I've got three lighting relays (spots on front and on roof) and they're all mounted behind the fuse holder. Run your switching wire from where it's spliced into the light switch, through your new switch, and down to the relay. The other side of the relay switch should go straight to earth. At this point, you can test your relay is working (listen for the click) with main beam on.
I've got an extra fusebox behind the passenger seat which all my ancilliaries run off. But essentially the wiring is the same. Take a wire from the battery, through the 20A fuse to the relay. Then take a wire from the relay through the bulkhead, along the side of the engine bay to the front of the vehicle where the lights are.
With not much effort you can make a pretty neat job of it. I wanted to be able to disconnect my spotlights, so I bought some Superseal connectors - unfortunately you need a special tool to crimp them onto the wires. Mr Mad Hat Man very kindly offered to put them on for me. An alternative would be those bullet connectors with rubber "boots" which would give the connector a bit of weather protection. If you're not bothered about disconnecting the lights, then you can ignore this paragraph!
One other thing - make sure your lights are well earthed or they won't perform well.
Ian.
Langers
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- Kent or Shropshire
Awesome, great post
I'll let you know how I get on I'll get some piccies up either tonight or tomorrow, depending on how fast I run out of light!
