Hevac - New edition....

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zebcrs said:
The whole kit would end up at around 100£.
That is for front plastics,pcb's with new buttons,arduino and display.
Fully mounted I would charge 150£.
The assembly requires some smd soldering/desoldering.
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Hey

Do we have any update on when these may be going into 'manufacture' ?? I'm definately interested please send PM when your ready for the sales etc :)

Thanks
 
martyuk said:
I've managed to design/build a replacement driver pack for the EAS. It's been in my P38 for the last couple of weeks for testing (to make sure it actually works in the vehicle whilst driving, not just on the bench!!).

I just need to look at getting a prototype PCB made up so it will all fit in a case about the same size as the original LR one! It's on the 'to do' list at some point.

Cost for me just building it on the prototyping waffle board where you have to join the dots, came in about 2/3 the price of a new driver pack.

RF unit... that would be a winner, though I am also looking into viable alternatives with using an old model RF receiver and a P38 key FOB, that is all hard-wired together and then triggered by an aftermarket fob, which isn't affected like the P38 receivers are.

However, I'm like Datatek... don't have the time at the moment. (maybe the next job I go away on I'll take a load of P38 bits to work on whilst the show is on!)

Marty
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Wonder if it worth changing the pressure at which the compressor kicks in so it doesn't run as often? Mine kicks in around 130 - 135 psi, way above the 120 psi stated in RAVE.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Wonder if it worth changing the pressure at which the compressor kicks in so it doesn't run as often? Mine kicks in around 130 - 135 psi, way above the 120 psi stated in RAVE.
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Cut in pressure should be 104 to 116 psi, cut out pressure should be 138 to 152 psi. If it cuts in early, it will run for shorter periods but more often than if it cuts in at the lower pressure, so it's as broad as it's long
 
Grrrrrr said:
Be nice to be able to tune it while he's at the design stage though, wouldn't it? And also be able to turn off the self-levelling after switching off. :)
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Turning off the self leveling when parked could lead to some interesting problems, think Citroen flattening the exhaust when parked 2 wheels on a high kerb, better idea would be to allow it to level upwards until the tank pressure dropped too low.
 
As an update to the EAS driver.. This one doesn't include anything to do with the pressure switch. I have put a slightly lower pressure switch in on my air tank which cuts in at about 80psi and off about 120. I was going to see what difference it made to the system operation (if any) but haven't got around to finishing wiring it in yet.

I've also designed the PCB for this mm ow, and have paid for 2 prototypes to be made, so I can see if it will work once fully built up. The prototype I made and have been using has been working fine for the past 6 months, though one of the driver chips seems to have died ( think due to heat - did a couple of long runs, and on hot days. But still, its got a tiny heatsink, and in a plastic case.. This next one will have much bigger heat sinks and/or have the chips bolted to the case, which will be aluminium.

Can't remember if I started a thread in here about the eas driver project, but might create a new one if I haven't already, once the boards arrive, so we can keep this thread about the touchscreen HEVAC. :)
 
Can't remember if I started a thread in here about the eas driver project, but might create a new one if I haven't already, once the boards arrive, so we can keep this thread about the touchscreen HEVAC. :)[/quote]

YIPEEEE this would be great as this thread has been hyjacked for nearly everything BUT the new touch screen HVAC topic which is where we started and the reason why I'm tracking it in the hope of getting a new and better looking HVAC control unit

Thanks a lot for brining it back with any luck :eek:
 
martyuk said:
As an update to the EAS driver.. This one doesn't include anything to do with the pressure switch. I have put a slightly lower pressure switch in on my air tank which cuts in at about 80psi and off about 120. I was going to see what difference it made to the system operation (if any) but haven't got around to finishing wiring it in yet.

I've also designed the PCB for this mm ow, and have paid for 2 prototypes to be made, so I can see if it will work once fully built up. The prototype I made and have been using has been working fine for the past 6 months, though one of the driver chips seems to have died ( think due to heat - did a couple of long runs, and on hot days. But still, its got a tiny heatsink, and in a plastic case.. This next one will have much bigger heat sinks and/or have the chips bolted to the case, which will be aluminium.


Can't remember if I started a thread in here about the eas driver project, but might create a new one if I haven't already, once the boards arrive, so we can keep this thread about the touchscreen HEVAC. :)
Click to expand...

I would suggest that if the drivers need heat sinks, you are over driving the solenoids. The driver pack uses pulse and hold, full power to the solenoids will burn them out in due course. There is NO heatsinking for the MOSFET drivers in the OE driver pack nor any need for it.
 
Datatek said:
I would suggest that if the drivers need heat sinks, you are over driving the solenoids. The driver pack uses pulse and hold, full power to the solenoids will burn them out in due course. There is NO heatsinking for the MOSFET drivers in the OE driver pack nor any need for it.
Click to expand...
OK see we are back on EAS now :jaw::D
 
Datatek said:
I would suggest that if the drivers need heat sinks, you are over driving the solenoids. The driver pack uses pulse and hold, full power to the solenoids will burn them out in due course. There is NO heatsinking for the MOSFET drivers in the OE driver pack nor any need for it.
Click to expand...

I know the driver pack uses pulse and hold (hit and drop as it's mentioned in the EAS SID) and the driver chips I am using replicate this, though both the 12V pulse and the subsequent duty time are adjustable. I might try reducing the duty time a bit more so after the initial 12V pulse, the PWM is a bit slower.

The LR driver pack does have heatsinking - as the MOSFETs are riveted to the metal housing of the driver pack - though this is only visible if you manage to get all the epoxy out.

On the HEVAC note, I have been planning for quite awhile now to try and make a touchscreen version myself (I have the arduino, 5" touch screen etc) and got as far as being able to read temp sensor and blend motor feedback into an arduino controller, however I need more time to learn the arduino programming language, and then actually try and make it all work!

I was planning on trying to inferface the arduino directly to the PCB where the vehicle loom plugs in, by removing the 2 main chips and then trying to find out which pins do what. This thing called a 'real job' keep getting in the way though, so it's all still on the back burner.

If these guys manage to get something working and usable, then I'll probably just can my idea and buy one of theirs! I'm sure I could find other uses for the arduino and touchscreen around the home :)

Marty
 
martyuk said:
The LR driver pack does have heatsinking - as the MOSFETs are riveted to the metal housing of the driver pack - though this is only visible if you manage to get all the epoxy out.


Marty
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There is no heatsinking of the MOSFETS, the are riveted to the PCB, would you like a photo? There is no contact to the metal housing.
 
Datatek said:
There is no heatsinking of the MOSFETS, the are riveted to the PCB, would you like a photo? There is no contact to the metal housing.
Click to expand...

I've just had another look at the photo I have, and you are right, they are riveted to the PCB. Do you have a picture of one of the PCB's removed from the casing? I would be keen on seeing a picture of the underside as I only have a picture of the top side or with the epoxy removed, but still in the case.
 
martyuk said:
I've just had another look at the photo I have, and you are right, they are riveted to the PCB. Do you have a picture of one of the PCB's removed from the casing? I would be keen on seeing a picture of the underside as I only have a picture of the top side or with the epoxy removed, but still in the case.
Click to expand...
I know I'm right, I have a completely de-potted driver.
In odd spare moments, I'm building an EAS test rig complete with air cylinders to simulate suspension.
I've done a lot of development on air powered systems designing micro controllers for them.
PM me with an email address and I'll send you a photo.
 
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