Help will not run

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
G

goggo

Member
Posts
15
Hello all sorry if this is posted in the wrong area

I have a problem with my 4.6 HSE 2 weeks ago it was running fine doing about 250 miles a day then I had a problem the suspension lights came on then went out run for about half a mile then every light on the dash came on engine cut out the car restarted and drove 400m to the car park.

after 30 min car started and ran fine for 200m then stopped eventual restarting so called RAC

car drove onto recovery truck

test showed Crank sensor failure car. NOW THE FUN BIT

car taken to garage who in there wisdom insisted that the cam position sensor needed to be changed £214.00
then they said it had a misfire and changed the plug leads £68.00
after 2 days they said still had a misfire and were looking at the wiring
as I can see pound notes flying out of my wallet I instructed them I wanted the car back

when it came back the battery was dead, jump started it eventually and it struggles to reach 500 rpm and that is with blipping the accelerator


any ideas I was wondering if they had removed and refitted the crank sensor and not fitted the spacer (the car is an auto) if that may be the problem.

after spending £400+ on the car only to get it back not working at I am a little P@£$ed off with the garage car is a 1996

any ideas many thanks
 
Hi. I am in Spalding Lincs. The garage have replaced and charged for a cam sensor, don't know if they have removed and inspected the crank sensor.
 
A genuine cam sensor is £166.50 from Land rover. OEM is £119.00 from Island. Crank sensor is £94.32 from Landrover and £35.00 from Island. Somebody is having their arse felt. If diag said crank sensor why have they changed the cam sensor?
 
good question I also asked why and they said that their equipment had pointed to cam sensor but having read how it works on rave it seams that even if the cam sensor had gone the car will still run, I must admit at the moment if it was the old type of engine I would have said it was timing or the plug leads were fitted in the wrong order, and as the car drove up onto their recovery vehicle when it went in and now doesn't even drive 2 feet I am of the opinion that what ever they did last is part of the problem

N
 
Hi all another update of the problem
I have checked the plug leads an they are in the correct order

tried to start the car and the battery was dead flat so jump started it and it fired up first time revd up to 3000 rpm then cut out started the car again and it ticked over at 850 nice and steady as I tried to rev it up cut out fired up third time tick over great if you slowly increase the speed it will climb and rev freely, however, as soon as the jump leads came off it cut out and refused to start.

left the car for 20 min jump leads on as it did exactly the same any ideas I am charging the battery as we speak

N
 
goggo said:
Hi all another update of the problem
I have checked the plug leads an they are in the correct order

tried to start the car and the battery was dead flat so jump started it and it fired up first time revd up to 3000 rpm then cut out started the car again and it ticked over at 850 nice and steady as I tried to rev it up cut out fired up third time tick over great if you slowly increase the speed it will climb and rev freely, however, as soon as the jump leads came off it cut out and refused to start.

left the car for 20 min jump leads on as it did exactly the same any ideas I am charging the battery as we speak

N
Click to expand...
If the battery is fecked and/or the alternator the engine will stop when the jump is removed.
Also worth looking at the MAF.
 
Hi alternator is charging ok (14.9v) going in having been playing with it again it shows the same symptoms as a car with a choke (for those that remember such items) that has not been pushed in and is flooding the engine

not sure what controls the fuel supply to the injectors all I can say is if you live in Peterborough area avoid MONOCH AUTOMOTIVE like the plague

N
 
goggo said:
Hi alternator is charging ok (14.9v) going in having been playing with it again it shows the same symptoms as a car with a choke (for those that remember such items) that has not been pushed in and is flooding the engine

not sure what controls the fuel supply to the injectors all I can say is if you live in Peterborough area avoid MONOCH AUTOMOTIVE like the plague

N
Click to expand...
14.9 volts looks high, I would expect 14.5 volts on the 4.6. Maybe nothing, maybe an indication of a problem.
I repeat if the battery is fecked, the car may stop when the jump is removed, what is the battery voltage engine off?
 
battery was reading 6.6v when it came back from the garage it is still on charge it should be ok as it was replaced about 8 months ago and upto when it broke down I could leave the car for over a week and it would still start ok.
I will put the battery from my other car onto the range rover tomorrow, it does seem like the engine is flooding but I m not sure if the crank sensor controls the amount of fuel/time the injectors open
 
goggo said:
battery was reading 6.6v when it came back from the garage it is still on charge it should be ok as it was replaced about 8 months ago and upto when it broke down I could leave the car for over a week and it would still start ok.
I will put the battery from my other car onto the range rover tomorrow, it does seem like the engine is flooding but I m not sure if the crank sensor controls the amount of fuel/time the injectors open
Click to expand...
If the battery got down to 6.6 volts, it may well be fecked, hard to recover a battery from that level of discharge.
 
goggo said:
battery was reading 6.6v when it came back from the garage it is still on charge it should be ok as it was replaced about 8 months ago and upto when it broke down I could leave the car for over a week and it would still start ok.
I will put the battery from my other car onto the range rover tomorrow, it does seem like the engine is flooding but I m not sure if the crank sensor controls the amount of fuel/time the injectors open
Click to expand...

Try a known good battery and go from there - let us know what happens.

My battery packed up after 6 months, gave me a few problems which have since gone when replaced.
 
goggo said:
but would a duff battery cause the other problems?
Click to expand...

A Range Rover and a suspect/duff battery are never good friends and the low level of charge will wreck havoc when it comes to diagnosing issues....

First rule with Range Rover diagnosis....make sure you have a strong battery and good charge from the alternator....without these you will chase your tail!
 
goggo said:
but would a duff battery cause the other problems?
Click to expand...

Saint.V8 said:
A Range Rover and a suspect/duff battery are never good friends and the low level of charge will wreck havoc when it comes to diagnosing issues....

First rule with Range Rover diagnosis....make sure you have a strong battery and good charge from the alternator....without these you will chase your tail!
Click to expand...
+1 to that.
 
Hi I have bought a brand new battery and fitted it to the car turned the key and same bloody problem!

I am now convinced that it is running rich after about 2 mins rough tickover it settled down to a nice even tick over as it used to be but as soon as you attempt to open the throttle it starts to stall if you take your foot off then the tick over is back rough when it was ticking over I disconnected the maf and it made no difference, I have noticed that when the tick over is rough there is a smell of petrol and black smoke out of the exhaust.
 
goggo said:
Hi I have bought a brand new battery and fitted it to the car turned the key and same bloody problem!

I am now convinced that it is running rich after about 2 mins rough tickover it settled down to a nice even tick over as it used to be but as soon as you attempt to open the throttle it starts to stall if you take your foot off then the tick over is back rough when it was ticking over I disconnected the maf and it made no difference, I have noticed that when the tick over is rough there is a smell of petrol and black smoke out of the exhaust.
Click to expand...

Unplug the MAF sensor see if it gets any better. If it does change the MAF sensor.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
P38 DSE Auto intermittent lack of power after vehicle has been hot
Replies
4
Views
305
JT_spark
J
S
Newbie urgent help supercharged 55 reg problems
Replies
2
Views
495
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
I
P38 BeCM locked?
Replies
8
Views
606
pwood999
pwood999
feyniriel
P38 alarm and immobilizer problems
2 3
Replies
42
Views
2K
Datatek
Datatek
B
4.4 sdv8 ticking noise 2014
Replies
6
Views
603
Bazerspain
B
Back
Top