Help. Superlocked and Engine disabled

couchiedemon said:

Yes, tried that first. Then climbed in and used the internal handle. No joy.

Tried the fob loads, just in case (prev owner told me it doesn't work - seemed like he was right). It flashes red but nothing happens. Now as I open the rear door, the headlights flash which suggests alarm mode. Still locked out. I've ordered a door striker, just in case I have to hacksaw the original one off to get the door open (not overy worried about paint damage as the car is tatty and I will paint the doors in due course). I'm thinking that I might have to try to get the Becm out and send it off to be reset (unlike the previous owner I'll get the EKA code reset to something sensible and get the VIN put in) and the immobiliser disabled. .

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couchiedemon said:

Thanks for all the comments so far, much appreciated.

I think I'm going to wait for the replacement door striker to arrive, then get the door open, check the rods. But I'm puzzled as to why the internal handle doesn't open the door - that feels securely connected to the actuator (this pointed me to superlocking in the first place). On every car I've ever had the inside handle overrides the lock (and is I believe an MOT failure if the door doesn't open from the inside in normal operation). I'll change the actuator back to the non-locking, but otherwise working one I took out and see if this allows the engine to be enabled. If not, it's BeCM repair time.

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pwood999 said:

If you have a door latch out then do the microswitch tests. If the microswitches have failed, then you might as well open the latch & see how it works.

You can also check both motors using a 9V battery.

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couchiedemon said:

Thanks. I will. Anyone know where there is a schematic/diagram of the lock.

On locks: I've read somewhere that lock actuators from the MGTF are the same (but much cheaper than those sold as RR parts). Is this correct. I've looked at a few on Ebay and they look identical except for a 2nd wire going from the small plug on the harness into the actuator body.

Also, can microswitches be replaced independently or is the actuator/lock toast and needs replacing with a new/known good unit?

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Grrrrrr said:

Could be the plastic clip that holds the rod for the lock handle has unclipped itself and either the rod has dropped out of its hole or got wedged at an odd angle.

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Datatek said:

I believe the MGTF lock is the same as the P38, others may confirm.
The micro switches can be replaced, Marty when he is in the UK does an exchange service.
The micro switches are a moulded block of three but for replacement are only available individually. I have replaced them an three locks so I can tell you which micro switches to buy, but it is not that simple to do.

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couchiedemon said:

Thanks. Replacing the microswitches sounds like a job that's not with doing if the MGTF parts fit. I might try that and see how we go.

Thanks to everyone who's chipped in so far. I am very grateful.

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Datatek said:

I believe the MGTF lock is the same as the P38, others may confirm.
The micro switches can be replaced, Marty when he is in the UK does an exchange service.
The micro switches are a moulded block of three but for replacement are only available individually. I have replaced them an three locks so I can tell you which micro switches to buy, but it is not that simple to do.

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couchiedemon said:

Well, today I dismantled the offending lock, removed the superlocking pawl and refitted it. I tried sync'ing the remote key with apparently no joy (with the locks anyway) and the EKA code again and was not surprised when it - apparently - did not work. A short while later I noticed that the alarm tell-tale light on the dash was no longer flashing. Tried the key in the ignition and it cranked!. I can't be sure whether the key-sync followed by a lock/unlock cycle or whether the EKA worked. However, the upshot is that I have a working vehicle again, for which I'm mightily relieved.

While refitting the lock, the cable from the inner handle to the lock disintegrated. One step forward and two steps back - back to reload the parts cannon. I get the impression that this is the shape of things to come owning a P38.

I am astonished at the breadth of knowledge available from kind people on here. Thank you all so much for all the helpful advice.

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couchiedemon said:

I get the impression that this is the shape of things to come owning a P38.QUOTE]
It's the shape of owning a 26 yr old complicated car.

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