help starting issues
- Thread starter greenn424
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
It's a start.
But first, some logic.
1. Face the facts - all the bits of this engine are still there in the right place? Right?
2. This engine USED to run. In fact it has probably done a million miles.
3. But it doesn't run now.
THE Question: what happened to this engine between 2. and 3. ?
Make a list of all the things that were done to it.
One or a combination of those things is probably the culprit.
It is smart only to do one thing at a time, and try the engine each time.
Like, suppose it drove under its own power into your driveway.
Then you fitted a set of points to it.
Now it doesn't start.
Hmmmmm............ I wonder what could possibly have caused that ..... ?
There are some terrible possibilities to make a stuff of fitting and setting ignition points.
The + terminal of the coil is ALWAYS LIVE when the IGN is on.
The points work by making and breaking the connection FROM the coil to EARTH! They do NOT switch the current on and off TO the coil.
When the points are CLOSED the current flows all through the coil and out to earth through the points.
When the points snap OPEN, the spark occurs. Just believe me. OK?
So, to make sparks at all the points MUST make and break the connection from the coil - to earth.
Therefore, take off the lead from the coil to the points AT THE COIL end so you also check this lead. Set your meter to OHMS and make sure the probes are plugged into the right holes if you have more than just two.
Take out the spark plugs.
.
Connect ONE probe to the connector on the lead you just took off the coil.
Connect the other probe to EARTH.
Turn the engine over using a big spanner on the crankshaft pulley or any other way you can think of. Even use the starter.
As the engine turns over you MUST get a series of OFFS and ONS on the meter, like TWO of each in one full turn of the engine.
Unless and until you reach this stage the engine WILL NOT START because there will NOT be sparks..
OK?
CharlesY
But first, some logic.
1. Face the facts - all the bits of this engine are still there in the right place? Right?
2. This engine USED to run. In fact it has probably done a million miles.
3. But it doesn't run now.
THE Question: what happened to this engine between 2. and 3. ?
Make a list of all the things that were done to it.
One or a combination of those things is probably the culprit.
It is smart only to do one thing at a time, and try the engine each time.
Like, suppose it drove under its own power into your driveway.
Then you fitted a set of points to it.
Now it doesn't start.
Hmmmmm............ I wonder what could possibly have caused that ..... ?
There are some terrible possibilities to make a stuff of fitting and setting ignition points.
The + terminal of the coil is ALWAYS LIVE when the IGN is on.
The points work by making and breaking the connection FROM the coil to EARTH! They do NOT switch the current on and off TO the coil.
When the points are CLOSED the current flows all through the coil and out to earth through the points.
When the points snap OPEN, the spark occurs. Just believe me. OK?
So, to make sparks at all the points MUST make and break the connection from the coil - to earth.
Therefore, take off the lead from the coil to the points AT THE COIL end so you also check this lead. Set your meter to OHMS and make sure the probes are plugged into the right holes if you have more than just two.
Take out the spark plugs.
.
Connect ONE probe to the connector on the lead you just took off the coil.
Connect the other probe to EARTH.
Turn the engine over using a big spanner on the crankshaft pulley or any other way you can think of. Even use the starter.
As the engine turns over you MUST get a series of OFFS and ONS on the meter, like TWO of each in one full turn of the engine.
Unless and until you reach this stage the engine WILL NOT START because there will NOT be sparks..
OK?
CharlesY
slob
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 22,488
- Location
- Harrogate or London
just a thought , you int sprayed that damp start stuff inside the dizzy?
Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 922
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
Use the startin honnel....works a treat...
Before you use effort, use your meter to make sure that, when the IGN is ON, you have 12 volts or more (full battery voltage) at the + connector of the coil.
Do nothing more till this is done. If there wasn't, but after five minutes you sort out why there wasn't, and there is now, the engine should have sparks again.
But proceed thus ....
Switch on, and make sure coil + is live to 12 volts / battery volts.
Disconnect the coil to distributor wire to leave the coil - terminal empty.
Take out the high tension king lead from the top of the coil.
Now you need two bits of INSULATED wire .... ordinary car lights wire will be fine, say a couple of feet (609.6 mm) long, and strip a little off each end so there's a wee bare bit at each end of each wire.
Now take the end of one wire and poke the end into the top of the coil (this is why you take out the king lead first ...) so it will make contact when you poke it into the top of the COIL. Jam it in somehow. Screwed up paper will do fine.
Take the other end of that wire and lay it on the head somewhere, so the end is near metal, but not quite touching. A quarter inch / 6mm gap will be fine.
Here's the good bit. Hold the ends of the other wire in your hands, and poke one end firmly onto the bare metal somewhere that will be earthed. Hold it there firmly. You will not get a shock. Now, take the other end and dab it on the empty coil - terminal where the wire to the distributor goes.
Every time you dab that wire OFF the coil, a bloody big noisy blue spark should appear on the end of the wire coming out of the top of the coil going to the head.
If you cannot make sparks doing this, a stuffed coil is probable, which is rare but it happens.
It's good fun making 20,000 volt sparks.
CharlesY
Do nothing more till this is done. If there wasn't, but after five minutes you sort out why there wasn't, and there is now, the engine should have sparks again.
But proceed thus ....
Switch on, and make sure coil + is live to 12 volts / battery volts.
Disconnect the coil to distributor wire to leave the coil - terminal empty.
Take out the high tension king lead from the top of the coil.
Now you need two bits of INSULATED wire .... ordinary car lights wire will be fine, say a couple of feet (609.6 mm) long, and strip a little off each end so there's a wee bare bit at each end of each wire.
Now take the end of one wire and poke the end into the top of the coil (this is why you take out the king lead first ...) so it will make contact when you poke it into the top of the COIL. Jam it in somehow. Screwed up paper will do fine.
Take the other end of that wire and lay it on the head somewhere, so the end is near metal, but not quite touching. A quarter inch / 6mm gap will be fine.
Here's the good bit. Hold the ends of the other wire in your hands, and poke one end firmly onto the bare metal somewhere that will be earthed. Hold it there firmly. You will not get a shock. Now, take the other end and dab it on the empty coil - terminal where the wire to the distributor goes.
Every time you dab that wire OFF the coil, a bloody big noisy blue spark should appear on the end of the wire coming out of the top of the coil going to the head.
If you cannot make sparks doing this, a stuffed coil is probable, which is rare but it happens.
It's good fun making 20,000 volt sparks.
CharlesY
slob
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 22,488
- Location
- Harrogate or London
drive it and jump on yer clutch pedal a few times
slob
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 22,488
- Location
- Harrogate or London
are you sure its outta gear?
slob
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 22,488
- Location
- Harrogate or London
take yer trans cover off and make sure yer g/stick is doing what its supposed to do
slob
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 22,488
- Location
- Harrogate or London
try jackin one rear wheel up and try turning that with the g/box in 'n' and the t/box in 2wd. then try it in gear
slob
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 22,488
- Location
- Harrogate or London
and yer prop was turning while you was doing this?
slob
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 22,488
- Location
- Harrogate or London
that dint make sense! if it trys to move when you turn the engine over and the g/box is in 'N' then it has to have drive going to the axle(stuck in gear). if its stuck in gear you wouldn't be able to easily turn a rear wheel....
go back and put both boxes into 'N' and try starting it again.
go back and put both boxes into 'N' and try starting it again.
