HELP! Scary Engine Failure

Ok everyone, firstly, I know nothing about engines. I'm one of the simple folk who just wants to drive and park, if there's a problem it goes to the expert. However, My trusty old 1997 P38 2.5 DSE is starting to give me problems and I need to be prepared for whatever the mechanic says this coming week. Here's the problem:

• Turn ignition on, car starts ok, but idles at a constant undulating variance of between 700 and 1000 revs.

• More often than not it works well, no problems, but now it's started to immediately cut out as soon as I move from P to D. As I said, it doesn't happen all the time, but it's happening more over the past ten days or so.

• Its now started to happen at random periods when I'm driving - usually in an urban cycle mode. It simply cuts out...obviously, this can be nerve wracking if you're in traffic etc. as the steering cuts out!

• When it cuts out I’ve found its easier to start from Neutral, keep my foot on the accelerator and move into Drive, otherwise it cuts out when I transfer from P to D (or R)

• I’ve also noticed that during the cut out periods a smell of diesel wafts into the car

The car has been in today for a dealership diagnostics check and they've suggested the fuel injector pump could be faulty (Ouch!), but I would be grateful for any advice whatsoever, as the car’s been fantastic (I know, looking through the site, that’s an unusual comment) and has never given me a problem in the five years I’ve owned it.

Any thoughts on the diagnosis? If its correct, where could I either buy a new/recon one or have the existing one fully checked?

Also, I forgot to mention that for a few months prior to all this happening, the car wasn't drawing fuel from the tank unless it was over a third full, Not sure if this is connected, but thought I should mention it.

All help welcome

Cheers

thecruiser

Not much of a mechanic but I reckon its worth checking the fuel filter too

I'm not sure of the diagnosis, but I'd certainly look for the source of that diesel smell - check the spill off pipes between the injectors & to the return.
perhaps they're perished and leaking.

First thing i would do is change the filter, eliminate the easy cheap options first ! (dont throw the old one away just yet in case it is ok) look for fuel seepage around the injectors, they are a common fault, (but doubt that is your problem) and the return pipes.

Also check the pump in the tank is working, as the comment about the third full tank makes me think it is not, easy to check when the filter is changed, just put a bowl or pot under the filter head (with filter removed) and get someone to switch ignition on, should spurt fuel out if it is ok.

Thanks for the replies so far.

It had a full main service only last week, as I thought this might help, but it made no difference. I'll get check the tank pump as suggested, but could that be the main issue or might it have simply precipitated a problem with the FIP?

If it is the FIP, any ideas where to go or what to do?

thecruiser said:

Thanks for the replies so far.

It had a full main service only last week, as I thought this might help, but it made no difference. I'll get check the tank pump as suggested, but could that be the main issue or might it have simply precipitated a problem with the FIP?

If it is the FIP, any ideas where to go or what to do?

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Before you think of the FIP, check the leak off pipes, the in tank pump and the filter.

I would put my money on either the in tank pump or the main fuse box.

First of all check in tank pump is working, relay 12 maybe duff or pump itself. Engine speed is measured by a combination of signals from crank sensor and number four injector. Then ECU adjusts fuel quantity solenoid and injection timing as required. So also check the connections on multi plug to FIP. Check connections to number four injector. Do all this and see what you get.

Thanks for all the great assistance. The Beast goes in next week, going to start with the in tank pump etc...but would that account for it cutting out when driving? We'll see...and I'll be sure to report back.

Thanks again

when the in tank pump failed on mine would suffer cutting out under load. back off the throttle and it would come back. also when plugged in gave a fault code that that would lead you to beleave that main injection pump was failing suspect it only brought up that fault as it had low fuel pressure defo first thing to get checked is in tank pump!

Having read everything, I'm inclined towards the tank pump, let's see.
I now have a new problem. Just been on a 100 mile journey and the HVAC system is playing up.

The passenger side is set to 'lo' but is pumping out red hot heat. This seems to have coincided with the 'auto' display going missing.

A bit weird I know, but any and all advice will e gratefully received.

Thanks

Hi everyone. Just a quick update.

The problem was the injection pump, had it removed and then I took it to PA Bashers in Southampton. They tested it and told me it was knackered (contaminated throughout etc) and I had the thing completely overhauled. £800.00 later it was taken back to the mechanic and re-fitted. Whilst it was out and parked with the mechanic he did a few other things I'd asked him to sort out. So all in all it was off the road for about a week and runs like new. Incredible. My mechanic charged 175! fantastic.

I now have a strange situation where my HVAC is blowing cold, when in demand for heat. Any clues??

Will this be something I have to embrace if I intend to live my life with the beloved P38?

wammers said:

First of all check in tank pump is working, relay 12 maybe duff or pump itself. Engine speed is measured by a combination of signals from crank sensor and number four injector. Then ECU adjusts fuel quantity solenoid and injection timing as required. So also check the connections on multi plug to FIP. Check connections to number four injector. Do all this and see what you get.

Click to expand...

I agree with wammers!!!