Help! MOT seat issue.

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JIM JAM

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Hi All, my 92 Classic has just failed its MOT (first time) due to the new MOT regs requiring electric seats to work - my drivers doesn't! Its been fine for the past couple of years as I've been the only one driving her. I'm pretty sure the ECU has gone.

I'm sure with all the knowledge here that someone can offer some advice!

Cheers.
 
Don't think there is an ECU. Look under rear of drivers seat ( best with seat fully forwards) but that maybe a problem for you. You will see auxilary fuse box 'D', four fuses in it, D1 D2 D3 D4. D1 and 2 are for passenger seat Fuses D3 and 4 are for drivers seat. D1 is the furthest inboard fuse D4 is the furthest outboard fuse. All 30 amps. Check those.
 
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wammers said:
Don't think there is an ECU. Look under rear of drivers seat ( best with seat fully forwards) but that maybe a problem for you. You will see auxilary fuse box 'D', four fuses in it, D1 D2 D3 D4. D1 and 2 are for passenger seat Fuses D3 and 4 are for drivers seat. D1 is the furthest inboard fuse D4 is the furthest outboard fuse. All 30 amps. Check those.
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Depends on Model Year and Spec....if it has Memory Seats and Mirrors (my '93 Classic did) there will be some 'brain' there somewhere....

Most usual filure item is the switch pack that controls the seats, give it a blast with compressed air and if you feel brave you can take it apart and clean the contacts (becareful there could be loose springs and contact strips in there....there was in my '88 classic)
 
Thanks for the quick replies. Its got memory seats (2 positions) . When I get the car back I'll have a closer look. If I can't make it work is it an easy job to replace the seat with a manual one? I just want to avoid expense and keep the car on the road as she means alot to me! The last thing I want to is have to sell her for parts!
 

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JIM JAM said:
Thanks for the quick replies. Its got memory seats (2 positions) . When I get the car back I'll have a closer look. If I can't make it work is it an easy job to replace the seat with a manual one? I just want to avoid expense and keep the car on the road as she means alot to me! The last thing I want to is have to sell her for parts!
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She looks great....

the seat rail mounting points are the same I believe...so should just unbolt and replace....

Not sure how this will effect the Mirrors though...I assume it won't effect them at all, as they have a seperate switch, but the memory function also sets the mirrors too....but should be fine (I hope)
 
JIM JAM said:
Thanks for the quick replies. Its got memory seats (2 positions) . When I get the car back I'll have a closer look. If I can't make it work is it an easy job to replace the seat with a manual one? I just want to avoid expense and keep the car on the road as she means alot to me! The last thing I want to is have to sell her for parts!
Click to expand...

It will have some sort of ECU in that case.
 
I've managed to have a look this morning. All fuses are fine. It looks like the ECU has been bypassed (mirrors don't work) and the seat motors wired up direct. I've had a play with the switch and given it a spray with some electrical cleaner, but no joy. The passenger seat works fine. I've got 10 days to see if I can solve the problem before it will need a new MOT.

What I am thinking of doing is removing the seat and replacing the seat mount with a manual one and sticking the seat back on, leaving the electrics in place so the passenger seat still works. It only has to work in the fore and aft sense to pass the MOT. Has anyone tried this method and how easy is it?

1992 lse I'm in RH7 6BJ, Lingfield Surrey. Again any words of wisdom really welcomed!!
 
JIM JAM said:
I've managed to have a look this morning. All fuses are fine. It looks like the ECU has been bypassed (mirrors don't work) and the seat motors wired up direct. I've had a play with the switch and given it a spray with some electrical cleaner, but no joy. The passenger seat works fine. I've got 10 days to see if I can solve the problem before it will need a new MOT.

What I am thinking of doing is removing the seat and replacing the seat mount with a manual one and sticking the seat back on, leaving the electrics in place so the passenger seat still works. It only has to work in the fore and aft sense to pass the MOT. Has anyone tried this method and how easy is it?

1992 lse I'm in RH7 6BJ, Lingfield Surrey. Again any words of wisdom really welcomed!!
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Might be a good idea to see if you have any power to switch for a start.
 
ecu is repairable...but if bypassed one needs to draw out the circuit thats been made, by doing this one should be able to work out whats ****ed up...

but as we dont know whats been done its hard to comment on a cure...but start with obvious..ie 12v at switches, then follow to motors etc...
 
Thanks guys, seat motors are working fine (connected them direct to battery), I'm just not the best auto electrician :eek: around and feel a bit lost when it comes to determining whats got power or not! I've found a manual seat, will swap it over for the mot and then swap them back again after its passed - seems a bit of a faff just to keep Brussels happy - should never have joined the EU!
 
Hi, I have electric seats in my 92 classic, they are constantly playing up, so changing them to manual ones. Got two old manual seats and stripped off the fabric and cushions, wanted to keep the leather seats so have transfered the leather and cushions to the manual seats, did the passenger one yesterday and was relatively straight forward. Will be doing the drivers side today.
 
JIM JAM said:
Thanks guys, seat motors are working fine (connected them direct to battery), I'm just not the best auto electrician :eek: around and feel a bit lost when it comes to determining whats got power or not! I've found a manual seat, will swap it over for the mot and then swap them back again after its passed - seems a bit of a faff just to keep Brussels happy - should never have joined the EU!
Click to expand...

If the motor is working, it is a simple matter to connect live to one side of switch and other side of switch to motor i would have thought.
 
If the motor is working, it is a simple matter to connect live to one side of switch and other side of switch to motor i would have thought

My next cunning plan is to get a two way spring centred switch and using a 12 volt source just wire it up to the fore/aft motor. But then theoretically I should be able to use the existing switch. Hey ho don't you just love them! When they work that is! :rolleyes:
 
The memory electric seats are slightly different to the non-memory seats. As far as I know, the memory seats don't switch 12v, they work on 3v or 5v the ecu is basically just a collection of relays, a memory chip and a couple of driver chips.

The non-memory seats/mirrors do switch 12v, so you might find it is a better option to see if you can get hold of the non-memory seat and mirror looms and go from there.

The alternative is open up your seat ecu and see how bad the internal damage is - it might be repairable. Generally, the internal battery leaks and damages the board, if the leak hasn't been too bad, it is sometimes possible to have the damaged tracks and components repaired restoring proper operation of seat and mirrors.
 
Thanks Kev, that explains why I was getting 5 volts when I tested the switch connection. So the motors work, the switches work, I'm getting 5v of power at the switch - why doesn't it work! Rather than start fitting separate switches and relays etc I've asked a mobile auto electician to come and have a 'quick' look - hopefully might be a quick fix. Will let you know, thanks again for all your advice!
 
JIM JAM said:
Thanks Kev, that explains why I was getting 5 volts when I tested the switch connection. So the motors work, the switches work, I'm getting 5v of power at the switch - why doesn't it work! Rather than start fitting separate switches and relays etc I've asked a mobile auto electician to come and have a 'quick' look - hopefully might be a quick fix. Will let you know, thanks again for all your advice!
Click to expand...


It dosen't work because the 5 volts is for switching the ECU to pull down a relay that carries the full voltage to work the motors.
 
Sorted now! Turned out to be one of the 30 amp fuses under the seat after all! Had it retested this morning (day 10) and it passed with flying colours!
Cheers all!
 
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