Help me fix up my freelander!

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Well Hell! Mr America....you would need to work for 20 years on a crappy KV6 engine. I know you guys need a V6 to pull your big asses down the freeway at 55!.

Noob Power Dude! :p
I'm runnin' 4.2 litres of V-8 Solihull alumineeum horepower my friend, so my rotund backside is cruising at 75 mph. When it's running.
 
I'm runnin' 4.2 litres of V-8 Solihull alumineeum horepower my friend, so my rotund backside is cruising at 75 mph. When it's running.

Well hell!, i cant compete with a Buick V8, one of the finest short block pick up engines ever conceived by man.

Dont you worry about polar ice caps and penguin survival?.

We cant afford V8's in the UK :(
 
Yup, recon so in a 300 form. Used in the "Surfer" series etc. Edelbrock did a version i think. I can argue, damm fine motor.
The engine is a pile of crap compared to Detroit Iron, but the rest of my Range Rover is quite extraordinary. Except for the electrics and the death wobble and oil splooged driveway and difficulty getting parts quickly. The sound system is very nice.
 
The engine is a pile of crap compared to Detroit Iron, but the rest of my Range Rover is quite extraordinary. Except for the electrics and the death wobble and oil splooged driveway and difficulty getting parts quickly. The sound system is very nice.

Well, we say in the uk...if it leaks oil its still alive :p

Harmon Kardon is a nice system, there is another one called Meridian if it ever breaks down. Land Rover need a good HiFi so you cant hear all the nasty stuff going on underneath..

Have you got a P38?
 
Well, we say in the uk...if it leaks oil its still alive :p

Harmon Kardon is a nice system, there is another one called Meridian if it ever breaks down. Land Rover need a good HiFi so you cant hear all the nasty stuff going on underneath..

Have you got a P38?
I drive a '93 LSE and I have a '90 Rangie to cannibalize for bits.
 

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I drive a '93 LSE and I have a '90 Rangie to cannibalize for bits.

Well Hell!, your a true Rangie enthusiast. A real classic, i bet it's in A1 condition as you guys dont have so much damm salt on the roads!...knocks the hell out of our cars in the UK. I have a 4.0 P38 on LPG (we cant afford the gas prices in the UK). It has a sunroof i have recently calibrated and got working...but there is very little sun! :mad:

I have to go and sleep, it's 2AM in the UK. It's been nice arguing with you!.

Don't think it wont happen again!. :p

Drive safe.
 
Well Hell!, your a true Rangie enthusiast. A real classic, i bet it's in A1 condition as you guys dont have so much damm salt on the roads!...knocks the hell out of our cars in the UK. I have a 4.0 P38 on LPG (we cant afford the gas prices in the UK). It has a sunroof i have recently calibrated and got working...but there is very little sun! :mad:

I have to go and sleep, it's 2AM in the UK. It's been nice arguing with you!.

Don't think it wont happen again!. :p

Drive safe.
Good night.
 
Krisboats.
I think the garage you mention in your first post has answered ALL your questions,
" don't throw any more money at this", especially as you don't intend to keep it.
 
Krisboats.
I think the garage you mention in your first post has answered ALL your questions,
" don't throw any more money at this", especially as you don't intend to keep it.

Well that's kind why i'm unsure about the whole thing. They said it could last a couple of years or it could last 20 minutes. If it's the former... i can't really drive round with windows that dont work and doors that wont lock for the next two years until it dies. I'm trying to determine which of the faults are worth sorting and should be worth the price of fixing them and which ones should be ignored or left until the car bursts into a blazing flameball of glory.
 
Well that's kind why i'm unsure about the whole thing. They said it could last a couple of years or it could last 20 minutes. If it's the former... i can't really drive round with windows that dont work and doors that wont lock for the next two years until it dies. I'm trying to determine which of the faults are worth sorting and should be worth the price of fixing them and which ones should be ignored or left until the car bursts into a blazing flameball of glory.

Kris, to answer your question:

The central locking could take a lot of time/money to fix - replace the handset battery (2 quid) and live with the rest.

The rear leak is unlikely to be expensive to fix, but time-consuming to find. Set aside an empty weekend to investigate - Inspect all external seals, remove trim, have someone water the back end...

Window regulator - 50-70 quid. Worth doing on driver's door.

Clunking - ball joint somewhere, budget 20-30 quid.

Sunroof - free it yourself for free.

VCU - we're not sure without seeing it. Rule out binding rear brakes. If in doubt - summer's coming! Remove the propshaft/VCU assembly and drive it in 2WD. No charge.
 
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Kris, to answer your question:

The central locking could take a lot of time/money to fix - replace the handset battery (2 quid) and live with the rest.

The rear leak is unlikely to be expensive to fix, but time-consuming to find. Set aside an empty weekend to investigate - Inspect all external seals, remove trim, have someone water the back end...

Window regulator - 50-70 quid. Worth doing on driver's door.

Clunking - ball joint somewhere, budget 20-30 quid.

Sunroof - free it yourself for free.

VCU - we're not sure without seeing it. Rule out binding rear brakes. If in doubt - summer's coming! Remove the propshaft/VCU assembly and drive it in 2WD. No charge.

That's a great help, cheers dude. I did the drivers electric window yesterday anyway at the grand total of £20 off ebay and an hour of my time.

The central locking works for two doors so it's not the battery. From what i've found it's going to need a new door latch in both drivers side doors. At about £40 each for those i could be putting nearly £100 towards a new car, or fix just one of them. Which brings me to the decision of fix the one i'm likely to use the most, the drivers door to save me having to fiddle with the badly fitting key in the latch during the rain etc. Or fix the rear one so i don't have to lean my arm round the centre pillar to unlock the rear door with the drivers door open.... :confused:
 
That's a great help, cheers dude. I did the drivers electric window yesterday anyway at the grand total of £20 off ebay and an hour of my time.

The central locking works for two doors so it's not the battery. From what i've found it's going to need a new door latch in both drivers side doors. At about £40 each for those i could be putting nearly £100 towards a new car, or fix just one of them. Which brings me to the decision of fix the one i'm likely to use the most, the drivers door to save me having to fiddle with the badly fitting key in the latch during the rain etc. Or fix the rear one so i don't have to lean my arm round the centre pillar to unlock the rear door with the drivers door open.... :confused:

Window reg - good find! Can you send me a link?

Central locking - scrapyard? Try 1stChoiceSpares.co.uk. Worth a punt if cheap enough.
 
Window reg - good find! Can you send me a link?

Central locking - scrapyard? Try 1stChoiceSpares.co.uk. Worth a punt if cheap enough.

LAND ROVER FREELANDER FRONT RIGHT DRIVER SIDE WINDOW REGULATOR 1998-06 *NEW* | eBay

This is the one i went for. Seems well built, saved the hassle of just trying to fit a new cable to my old rails. Just unbolted my motor from the old one and attached it to this. Nice and smooth motion, but i think the motor isn't that great anyway as it's always been slower going back up than the passenger window. The window goes up and down now though and doesn't drop of it's own accord when going over speed bumps :lol:

Never been to a scrapyard before, do i just search for local ones to loughborough and turn up, then go hunting for bits? How does it work?
 
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