help eas the pain

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Saint.V8 said:
Longtime no speak Wammers....I trust you are well and in good fettle.

P38_EAS_HEIGHTS.jpg
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Not brilliant but just about still here. Trust you and the family are ok. Little un will be running the house by now i take it. See you have a new bus. Looks tidy.
 
wammers said:
Not brilliant but just about still here. Trust you and the family are ok. Little un will be running the house by now i take it. See you have a new bus. Looks tidy.
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Oh yes, Summer is defiantly running the show now, she is really starting to become her own little person. She is 2 and half now and talking well and able to tell us what she wants and what she doesn't like....which is fun!

But all is well, as you can see Anna and I have decided that we need to live the easy life and remove as much 'stress' and 'baggage' as life has kind of overtaken us at the moment so we need to simplify things and get back to basics!

The new acquisition will be picked up tomorrow, and I am looking forward to a 'simpler' life with it.....I don't mind spannering things and getting the DVM out to figure stuff out, but the Range Rover's complex electronics and the need to plug it in, fault find, eliminate and etc are just to much for me and where we are in life at the moment.

As you know, I am one of Range Rovers biggest fans and I adore them, but even I know when to draw a line and back off for a while.

The new bus is a 1988 110 County fitted with a 300Tdi unit.....only electronic thing on it are the glow plugs and the stop solenoid....so if it don't start there is only a couple of things to check....fuel, air, compression....job done!

As for electrickery - it has a heater and some lights....that's it too....

Everything else is nuts, bolts and washers....
 
Well it goes like this, started up, up to full height, switched off, pulled timer relay under seat, measured from arch to wheel rim x 4, left for around an hour, O/S/F dropped to stops, problem solved i hope. Now do i get 2 or 4 air springs.:confused:
 
before buying airbags, pull the pipe for OSF from the valve block and inflate manually. Then re-check the seals at the top of the existing airbag for leaks. At same time spray soapy water all over the bag to see if that's leaky.
 
pwood999 said:
before buying airbags, pull the pipe for OSF from the valve block and inflate manually. Then re-check the seals at the top of the existing airbag for leaks. At same time spray soapy water all over the bag to see if that's leaky.
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Good idea, will do. Had soapy water all over the damb thing, i have some bag o rings if its that, will let you know, fingers crossed:confused:
 
How old are the bags? Supposed to last 7 years (so I'm told on here) but after 10 they'll definitely be on their last legs. If one's gone usually the others need doing so do all 4.
 
Grrrrrr said:
How old are the bags? Supposed to last 7 years (so I'm told on here) but after 10 they'll definitely be on their last legs. If one's gone usually the others need doing so do all 4.
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Not sure how old, will do more tests tmoz when i can see, thats if i thore out. Just put the relay back in and the valve block did a lot of huffin an puffin to level its self. Pulling feed pipes and manualy inflating front bags tmoz.
 
Up date. New front bags, old ones had 98/10 molded in and a landy badge, cant believe there 19yo. All sorted then, NO. front still down after an hour or so but at least the pump stops now. Pumped up pulled relay os front down. Swopped sensors over pumped up pulled relay still osf down. So i an now presuming that the old bags were leaking as the pump now stops but there is still a little leak from the v block
 
Tony e said:
Up date. New front bags, old ones had 98/10 molded in and a landy badge, cant believe there 19yo. All sorted then, NO. front still down after an hour or so but at least the pump stops now. Pumped up pulled relay os front down. Swopped sensors over pumped up pulled relay still osf down. So i an now presuming that the old bags were leaking as the pump now stops but there is still a little leak from the v block
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Look at the plastic pipe that goes under the battery tray if OSF is dropping. It can only be a leak in that, a leak pipe to the bag, a leak from pipe to the valve block, a leak on the small O'ring under the solenoid seat or the solenoid seal itself.
 
Thanks for that pal. Have planned on doing some tests later today. Will check the pipes, didnt think it could be that as it stays up for so long. Good news that the pump now cycles as should so it can only be a small leak now i think.
 
Tony e said:
Thanks for that pal. Have planned on doing some tests later today. Will check the pipes, didnt think it could be that as it stays up for so long. Good news that the pump now cycles as should so it can only be a small leak now i think.
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If it stays up for a long time it is a very small leak and may take some finding. Battery acid does not do the pipe under the tray any favours, don't know how it effects nylon pipe but it does apparently. Also when suspension is up and pressured push the pipe into the bag and valve block again you will find it goes in a little further.
 
wammers said:
If it stays up for a long time it is a very small leak and may take some finding. Battery acid does not do the pipe under the tray any favours, don't know how it effects nylon pipe but it does apparently. Also when suspension is up and pressured push the pipe into the bag and valve block again you will find it goes in a little further.
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:) Will do
 
Checked pipes, joints. All good. Pushed them in under pressure, still dropping on osf. Thought a little carfull spraying around solanoid will be a good idea. IT WAS. Air leaking around base. Stripped it out and found a hair line crack on the rim of the rod sleave holder ( the bit that the small philips screws go into ). Sealed it up ish with gas putty. Still a very tiny leak but will do until i get a new solanoid this week. Pump shuts down now for around 5 mins then only runs for 35 seconds so thats a result if nowt else. Will change rear bags asap as the fronts were 19 yo according to the date stamps and landy badge. Thanks for all your help every one, especialy Wammers who has defo earned a bottle;)
 
Tony e said:
Checked pipes, joints. All good. Pushed them in under pressure, still dropping on osf. Thought a little carfull spraying around solanoid will be a good idea. IT WAS. Air leaking around base. Stripped it out and found a hair line crack on the rim of the rod sleave holder ( the bit that the small philips screws go into ). Sealed it up ish with gas putty. Still a very tiny leak but will do until i get a new solanoid this week. Pump shuts down now for around 5 mins then only runs for 35 seconds so thats a result if nowt else. Will change rear bags asap as the fronts were 19 yo according to the date stamps and landy badge. Thanks for all your help every one, especialy Wammers who has defo earned a bottle;)
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It is very important to check that the solenoid bases are flat. And NOT to over tighten the retaining screws and distort them.The only place on these that can leak and cause a corner to drop is the small O'ring that seals them to valve block or the solenoid valve seal itself. All the other O'rings in them can only leak when the bags are being filled. Rubbing them gently in a figure of eight on some 320 wet or dry will flatten them.
 
I ran the car to pump it all up. Switched off and took top off. Then sprayed again. A leak from the seem where the top and bottem pieces are held together by 2 small philips screws after the slotted screws are removed. The 2 pieces taken apart and thats were i found the crack in the ring that protrudes out of the lower piece
 
Tony e said:
I ran the car to pump it all up. Switched off and took top off. Then sprayed again. A leak from the seem where the top and bottem pieces are held together by 2 small philips screws after the slotted screws are removed. The 2 pieces taken apart and thats were i found the crack in the ring that protrudes out of the lower piece
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Do you mean the solenoid valve seat? Do you have this. http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/
 
Thanks for all that. The picture that shows the internals split down with part no 40-48-98 on the left of the photo. That ring protruding from it has a crack in it and wont seal the thin o ring when the 2 pieces mate together
 
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