brianp38dse
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You can just unbolt the hole hub complete with disc of the axle, i did on mine i think i only swung the caliper out the way and just pulled the whole bearing hub out six bolts iirc.
Ah yes you are correct .You can just unbolt the hole hub complete with disc of the axle, i did on mine i think i only swung the caliper out the way and just pulled the whole bearing hub out six bolts iirc.
Ah yes you are correct .
Thought it was a rear diff that's gone.Well it saves having to fight with the hub nut especially if your in a scrapyard and cant stop the shaft turning
Thought it was a rear diff that's gone.
You had me going there.My bad the rear has no shaft nut, i was getting confussed as i never undidit, i am easily confussed
Well the grizzly truth….
a point to everyone who said UJ !
but… unfortunately the bearing in the rear diff has completely collapsed, a crown wheel has destroyed itself and there are teeth and bits of swarf throughout the casing.
a new diff is required… quickly.
(Supposed to go on holiday with it on wed)
garage reckon they can source a new one for around £800. Scouring The bay for a 4 pin rear diff for a 4.6 P38 that’s within a 3-4 hour drive of Glasgow but not having a whole lotta luck.
If anyone has any thoughts they’re most welcome !
Thanks again
Bob
And we know that don't take muchYou had me going there.
Yeah I mailed them yesterday to ask about it and they said they have forklifts and high stands.UPullIt in Inverkeithing are generally good. If you ask nice, they'll lift the car for you to get under it.
Check the condition of the oil in the diff if it's full of shiny flecks I'd be weary. If the old bearing's were knackered then they would clunk when taking up drive.Yeah I mailed them yesterday to ask about it and they said they have forklifts and high stands.
I know what I'm likely doing Monday ! -Just hope its not trashed like mine was !
Actually, I wonder if the dying diff / UJ was the source of the clunking from underneath....
One other daft question, How does one check the vu]iscous coupling isn't toast ?
That how i do it ,but in neutral if auto ,and manual for that mater ,Keep a constant pressure on the bar it should rotate slowly with force as said above,if it trys to snap the wheel stud its toastYou will have to check the viscous when the motor is back together, with the car on the ground lift one front wheel use a beaker bar on a wheel nut and you should be able to turn the wheel slowly with firm pressure there is a torque figure but i cant remember it some one else will
30min swap
1) Remove rear calipers and discs.
2) Undo the 6 or 8 bolts around the hub
3) slide the shafts out
4) Drop the rear propshaft off, 4 bolts.
5) undo all the nuts from around the final drive unit.
6) drop the old one out
7) clean the casing internally best you can
8) fit the new 'un.
9) slide the shaft in "oh yeh"
9) Add some new 75w90
You will have to check the viscous when the motor is back together, with the car on the ground lift one front wheel use a beaker bar on a wheel nut and you should be able to turn the wheel slowly with firm pressure there is a torque figure but i cant remember it some one else will
Hi,
so just when I thought all was well with the world, I was driving along the M80 doing 70, marvelling at the near 25 mpg that was being attained when I started to hear a bit of a rumble, not too distinct, wasn’t even sure it was coming from me, and then Boom.
something let go the noise became an ominous and serious Rhythmic clunk and suddenly there was a massive vibration I could hardly see
It was so violent.
I eased the car over to the hard shoulder and let her stop gently.
I’m now awaiting rescue.
everything ‘seems’ intact underneath but I wonder if something could have happened with the rear prop
Shaft or diff.
I’ve no warning lights or messages on the dash -other than ‘Fuse 10 has failed’
I know that all sounds very vague but if anyone has any ideas I’d be very grateful.
thanks again
Bob
-and I thought all I had to worry about was a misaligned / perished sunroof
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