P38A Help ! Catastrophic failure -ominous metallic clunking from rear

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You can just unbolt the hole hub complete with disc of the axle, i did on mine i think i only swung the caliper out the way and just pulled the whole bearing hub out six bolts iirc.
 
Well, the eBay one in Edinburger is gone.
I can try and coax the diff from the scrapped one (with no ramp, etc), try a specialist breaker I know of, or call William…
it’s either that or £800 + labour for a new one
 
Crikey:eek: i must check my diffs for oil,....Also ,sorry bob but you might half to check the viscous coupling in the transfer box,When they seize they can knacker diffs and ujs puts extra strain on them and they can fail.....:eek: Hope not....;)
 
Well the grizzly truth….

a point to everyone who said UJ !

but… unfortunately the bearing in the rear diff has completely collapsed, a crown wheel has destroyed itself and there are teeth and bits of swarf throughout the casing.

a new diff is required… quickly.
(Supposed to go on holiday with it on wed)

garage reckon they can source a new one for around £800. Scouring The bay for a 4 pin rear diff for a 4.6 P38 that’s within a 3-4 hour drive of Glasgow but not having a whole lotta luck.

If anyone has any thoughts they’re most welcome !


Thanks again

Bob

Ashcrofts do refurbed ones.

I believe the 4 pin and 2 pin are interchangeable but never tried it so not certain. 4 pin on later models although rear diff with traction control on earlier models should be 4 pin post '97. I seem to recall a lively debate as some were and some weren't, presumably as JLR used the parts bin up.
 
Ashcroft are a good shout -about half the price quoted and a known / refurbished item rather than a pull from a donor.

unfortunately they’re closed to Monday and their lead times may be too long
 
30min swap

1) Remove rear calipers and discs.
2) Undo the 6 or 8 bolts around the hub
3) slide the shafts out
4) Drop the rear propshaft off, 4 bolts.
5) undo all the nuts from around the final drive unit.
6) drop the old one out
7) clean the casing internally best you can
8) fit the new 'un.
9) slide the shaft in "oh yeh"
9) Add some new 75w90 :D
 
UPullIt in Inverkeithing are generally good. If you ask nice, they'll lift the car for you to get under it.
Yeah I mailed them yesterday to ask about it and they said they have forklifts and high stands.
I know what I'm likely doing Monday ! -Just hope its not trashed like mine was !

Actually, I wonder if the dying diff / UJ was the source of the clunking from underneath....

One other daft question, How does one check the vu]iscous coupling isn't toast ?
 
You will have to check the viscous when the motor is back together, with the car on the ground lift one front wheel use a beaker bar on a wheel nut and you should be able to turn the wheel slowly with firm pressure there is a torque figure but i cant remember it some one else will:D
 
Yeah I mailed them yesterday to ask about it and they said they have forklifts and high stands.
I know what I'm likely doing Monday ! -Just hope its not trashed like mine was !

Actually, I wonder if the dying diff / UJ was the source of the clunking from underneath....

One other daft question, How does one check the vu]iscous coupling isn't toast ?
Check the condition of the oil in the diff if it's full of shiny flecks I'd be weary. If the old bearing's were knackered then they would clunk when taking up drive.
 
You will have to check the viscous when the motor is back together, with the car on the ground lift one front wheel use a beaker bar on a wheel nut and you should be able to turn the wheel slowly with firm pressure there is a torque figure but i cant remember it some one else will:D
That how i do it ,but in neutral if auto ,and manual for that mater ,Keep a constant pressure on the bar it should rotate slowly with force as said above,if it trys to snap the wheel stud its toast:eek:
 
30min swap

1) Remove rear calipers and discs.
2) Undo the 6 or 8 bolts around the hub
3) slide the shafts out
4) Drop the rear propshaft off, 4 bolts.
5) undo all the nuts from around the final drive unit.
6) drop the old one out
7) clean the casing internally best you can
8) fit the new 'un.
9) slide the shaft in "oh yeh"
9) Add some new 75w90 :D

And buy a battery grinder and gun rather than an expensive diff you wont regret it...
 
You will have to check the viscous when the motor is back together, with the car on the ground lift one front wheel use a beaker bar on a wheel nut and you should be able to turn the wheel slowly with firm pressure there is a torque figure but i cant remember it some one else will:D

70 nm on the hub nut with the refurbed unit I got on my manual box. It'll click if you go too fast but slow steady pressure and you should be able to tease it around. My knackered one was scrubbing the outside of the tyres and took 140Nm to turn.
 
Hi,

so just when I thought all was well with the world, I was driving along the M80 doing 70, marvelling at the near 25 mpg that was being attained when I started to hear a bit of a rumble, not too distinct, wasn’t even sure it was coming from me, and then Boom.

something let go the noise became an ominous and serious Rhythmic clunk and suddenly there was a massive vibration I could hardly see
It was so violent.

I eased the car over to the hard shoulder and let her stop gently.

I’m now awaiting rescue.

everything ‘seems’ intact underneath but I wonder if something could have happened with the rear prop
Shaft or diff.
I’ve no warning lights or messages on the dash -other than ‘Fuse 10 has failed’

I know that all sounds very vague but if anyone has any ideas I’d be very grateful.

thanks again

Bob

-and I thought all I had to worry about was a misaligned / perished sunroof
 
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