Help Can anyone confirm all starting related components and requirements ?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
R

REDNAL3

Active Member
Posts
106
Location
scotland
Hi all, I am kind of running out of solutions on this one. I have been trying to solve poor starting problem on my 2005 freelander td4 97k miles. It starts but only after 5-6 attempts.If its been running for while and if not left more than 10 minutes it will start ok but if left longer it struggles.Once started it runs absolutely perfect.
So far I replaced low pressure pump and fuel filter , changed battery, upgraded the copper starter solenoid kit , replaced crankcase breather with the upgrade, cleaned air intake manifold and removed gunk from EGR ,replaced both air filters and renewed all glow plugs.I carried out all the leak off tests ( ignition only , Cranking and finally leak off running test below)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h299/GCG1967/IMG_1233_zpsm1gkvplb.jpg
I have purchased i930 carsoft diagnostic and engine has no fault codes.I swapped the camshaft sensor with brothers identicle car but no difference to either car and his still starts no problem.
Is there anything starting related that I am missing (yes its got plenty fuel)
smile.gif
and would a particular reading of live data offer any clues ?
P.S if anyone in close proximity central scotland wants use of my diagnostic reader just give me a shout ;)
 
If you've swapped the camshaft position sensor (assuming the wiring to the ECU is OK) then I'd next be thinking crankshaft position sensor or fuel pressure sensor given you've checked most of the usual suspects.
 
Do you know if either of these would emit a fault code if faulty ? I had thought about that camshaft wiring at the time. I removed the sensor and tried to crank without putting sensor in to see if that would log a fault. it did ( P1e25 ) so im assuming that means wiring ok. what you reckon ?
 
I suggest all earths get cleaned, then I suggest your starter motor needs replacing, it could be drawing too much current to turn efficiently, or perhaps your battery is underperforming, check this out with jump starting it!
 
I had already sanded earth connections but have now replaced the starter motor as suggested . I am however still in same boat as still takes multiple attempts before starting. Battery is also new and starter is getting full voltage. Does anyone know if crankshaft sensor or fuel pressure sensor would emiit a fault code ? Can i determine if either has a problem within my icarsoft 930 data steam ? .
 
REDNAL3 said:
I had already sanded earth connections but have now replaced the starter motor as suggested . I am however still in same boat as still takes multiple attempts before starting. Battery is also new and starter is getting full voltage. Does anyone know if crankshaft sensor or fuel pressure sensor would emiit a fault code ? Can i determine if either has a problem within my icarsoft 930 data steam ? .
Click to expand...
The fuel pressure sensor should generate a fault code, as should the crank sensor. You can get the live data from the high pressure fuel rail and low pressure fuel pump. These might give you a clue as to what is going on. The crank sensor would need testing with a scope, which is beyond most DIYers budget.
 
Thanks for swift reply ! If these two sensors would generate fault codes then Im guessing my issue lies elsewhere as no codes present.Any idea what could possibly be left to check ?
 
Hi All, I think I have made some progress but its confusing the hell out of me o_O My brother has an identicle car to mine and by process of elimination I have been trying parts from his car on mine. Tonight I put his crankshaft sensor in my car and mine in his. the result was that his car would start but then cut out as soon as gave it some throttle. My car would not start at all with his . I then put them back the way they were and his starts and runs fine again. Mine however struggles to start and once started is missing continuously so much so I couldnt drive it home. I checked and it gave me the crankshaft fault code for first time ever but not sure if thats just because sensor had been disconnected or if recognising true fault.
My thinking is that this exercise may have damaged my already failing sensor further and its now goosed.
What I cannot understand however is why did his sensor not work in mine ??
Can anyone have a think and offer their interpretation on this ?
just to add that prior to the exercise my car was driving fine but taking multiple times to start
.
 
I take it you've read the 'Help, what did I do' thread, which might help, especially the last page.
Only thing that jumps to mind is the injector wiring harness has a bad wire/connection, so when starting it can't handle the load, but is fine when running.
But I'm not convinced by this.
Mike
 
Hi, No I had a look and cant find that "Help what did I do" thread do you have a link ?
Since my last post I tried couple more things. I took off crankshaft sensor gave it a clean and put it back on. It got car running normally again but with exact same starting issues. I bought a new sensor and fitted it but as above still has same starting issues. I picked another injector rail harness as you suggested and again it made no difference. I noticed one of the small vacuum hoses leading to rail sensor was frayed so replaced that as well. You guessed it no difference and still no fault codes :)
If there is anyone in central Scotland who you thinks they can help solve this please let me know
The car starts at first turn of key in the morning providing its been left overnight for at least 8 hours. As soon as its warm the starting trouble begins.
Is there any component / fault that is known to follow this pattern that I havent checked yet ?
 
Thanks Mike makes interesting reading and gives me couple of further checks. Firstly low pressure pump. Mine is new pump but on reflection was only £35 and suspect should have gone for more expensive better quality pump.
My low pressure supply at idle is 344 and high pressure 28658.
My brothers identicle car at idle is 353 and high pressure 28500. His starts perfectly every time and as you can see his figures are not too far apart from mine.. Does anyone have a car that starts fine and delivers similar figures to mine ?
Second check is pressure regulator gasket and seals.
I've had search on site for any pics on removing this but no joy yet. I'll keep searching elsewhere as haynes reference is not very detailed.
 
My TD4 has a slightly higher LP at 360Kpa but my HP pressure is about 28,500Kpa at idle and starts just fine.
A couple of Kpa here and there shouldn't make much difference in starting. The HP regulator seals appear to fail, causing sluggish or complete failure to start.
 
Is it a known symptom of lp pump or split regulator seals/o rings to be temperature sensitive ? The car starts at first turn of key if left overnight for 8-10 hours.
If its left for same period of time during daytime it will take 5 or more attempts.
I have been looking on ebay for the gasket and o ring kit for my 2005 Freelander td4. None of those listed have the vehicle compatability check though so taking bit longer than id like to find correct kit to fit. If anyone does know which one fits mine please send me link as itching to try this fix.;)
 
Ok thats one ordered now so fingers crossed this solves the mystery,
Not sure where this regulator is but hopefully its easy to get to, Ive probably spent more time under the bonnet than behind the wheel :)
 
REDNAL3 said:
Ok thats one ordered now so fingers crossed this solves the mystery,
Not sure where this regulator is but hopefully its easy to get to, Ive probably spent more time under the bonnet than behind the wheel :)
Click to expand...
The HP regulator is on the back of the HP pump. It's not that easy to get at because access is limited by the starter and visibility is limited by the inlet manifold. I'd take the IM off as that's an easy task. It's much easier to remove something that you can see, as opposed to doing it by feeling your way with your fingers.
 
I've removed the regulator replaced o rings but stuck in a quandry. Which side of this new gasket should face into engine side ?IMG_1328.JPG IMG_1329.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
FL1 TD4 warm start issues
Replies
3
Views
914
Arctic2
Arctic2
K
Help with weird electrical fault which affects starting and brake lights?
Replies
6
Views
921
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel
spacebrodie
Freelander 2 (LR2) Cut out - P0045-19
Replies
6
Views
661
Arctic2
Arctic2
bankz5152
Defender TD5 Starting Issue and More!
Replies
0
Views
765
bankz5152
bankz5152
Flossie
P38A On going leak off issue, driving me mad!
Replies
14
Views
1K
Flossie
Flossie
Back
Top