HELP! 110 Td5 alarm

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update4;

today i noticed my foglight switch is un opperational as well as my headlights.

so im back to thinking earth fault?!

looking in the haynes does anyone know exact location of;

earthing points E7 + E2?

foglight control unit?

Is there any other earth bonding i should be checking?

pukker stumped now!! :confused:
 
hmmm

more investigation via haynes indicates the trailer socket uses earth point E7 (no supprise there)

since the blown fuse i replaced was marked 'chassis/trailer socket' could there be a chaffed/trapped wire back there somewhere causing the fault?!

i need to locate;

trailer socket to foglight 'diode'
rear foglight 'ecu'
 
deaftonewonder said:
hmmm

more investigation via haynes indicates the trailer socket uses earth point E7 (no supprise there)

since the blown fuse i replaced was marked 'chassis/trailer socket' could there be a chaffed/trapped wire back there somewhere causing the fault?!

i need to locate;

trailer socket to foglight 'diode'
rear foglight 'ecu'
Click to expand...
If you look behind the light cover inside the o/s/r of your landy you should find a multiplug for the trailer socket. You could try unplugging this. If this has no effect try adjusting the position of the rear lighting wiring loom from the underside of the o/s/r as they are prone to chaffing through on the plastic wheel arch liner.


Have you checked the ECU earth under the drivers seat?
 
cool, cheers for the steer ratty, i'll be pulling that bit of loom appart tomorrow!

the earth under drivers seat was spankers -i still took it up and cleaned it then applied some electrical compound as i did to all door switches and bonnet earth point/switch.

i read a post from a guy on LRO website who had exactly the same issue as mine.

there was only 1 reply saying earth fault and advising to run seperate earth wires direct from earth point to both headlights individually and alarm sounder.

there was no update to say if ths fixed it so im waiting on a reply to my PM.

im gonna do it anyway + see what happens!
 
today i tried disconnecting the trailer socket -no effect

got the new bonnet pressure switch + fitted -no effect

i dismantled my n/s headlamp and disconnected all the plugs, removed the heater intake cowl and washer bottle to get the loom out, unravelled it and did find a tiny chafe on the high beam wire but nothing significant -as well as 2 wires snipped both ends of the run, these were green with black trace. -no effect to the alarm when replaced.

on another note the sounder is labeled as a BBUS yet doesnt sound when the battery is disconnected??

had to get home before dark so didnt have time to do the drivers side loom -job for tomorrow i think!

this gets stranger + stranger, has anyone heard of an ecu dropping its settings? -this is last resort i can think of.
 
deaftonewonder said:
today i tried disconnecting the trailer socket -no effect

got the new bonnet pressure switch + fitted -no effect

i dismantled my n/s headlamp and disconnected all the plugs, removed the heater intake cowl and washer bottle to get the loom out, unravelled it and did find a tiny chafe on the high beam wire but nothing significant -as well as 2 wires snipped both ends of the run, these were green with black trace. -no effect to the alarm when replaced.

on another note the sounder is labeled as a BBUS yet doesnt sound when the battery is disconnected??

had to get home before dark so didnt have time to do the drivers side loom -job for tomorrow i think!

this gets stranger + stranger, has anyone heard of an ecu dropping its settings? -this is last resort i can think of.
Click to expand...

The only other thing that I can think of is that the earth behind the dash could be at fault. The reason I say this is because my nanocom shows the voltage at my dash as being around 13.6-14v even though the battery voltage is actually 14.5v volts with the engine running (I've also checked this with a multi-meter to confirm it). The more electrics that I have on the lower the voltage shown even though the battery voltage is usually still 14.5 volts.
 
i had the instruments out yesterday and couldnt see it....

whilst im at it is there 1 in the drivers footwell? -or is that the 1 in the drivers seat locker?

i used the fag lighter today and it works but the light on it doesnt

could the BBUS not working be a symptom?

reckon i'll be tearing the dash appart tomorrow :frusty:
 
deaftonewonder said:
i had the instruments out yesterday and couldnt see it....

whilst im at it is there 1 in the drivers footwell? -or is that the 1 in the drivers seat locker?

i used the fag lighter today and it works but the light on it doesnt

could the BBUS not working be a symptom?

reckon i'll be tearing the dash appart tomorrow :frusty:
Click to expand...

On the disco there is one down by the accelerator pedal. Was the fag lighter light working before you fitted the dash vent?

I think there may be an earth by the wiper motor but again i'm not 100% sure.:eek:
 
i peeled back the soundproofing in the drivers well today but couldnt see it?

yeah the fag lighter light was working with the sidelights before the alarm issue.

i only took the top + face off the dash when putting the vent in as wasnt a need to strip the lower panels so not seen the wiper motor yet, i didnt see an earth point but wasnt really looking -more interested in trying to get the panels to fit bak in! :mil40:

gotta be an earth / wiring issue in the dash somewhere!?

do you reckon the headlights will work if i got a hawkeye + turned the alarm system off? iv fitted a battery isolator with removable key as a hardwire back up to the alarm but i like the warm fuzzy feeling a alarm system gives me........
 
deaftonewonder said:
i peeled back the soundproofing in the drivers well today but couldnt see it?

yeah the fag lighter light was working with the sidelights before the alarm issue.

i only took the top + face off the dash when putting the vent in as wasnt a need to strip the lower panels so not seen the wiper motor yet, i didnt see an earth point but wasnt really looking -more interested in trying to get the panels to fit bak in! :mil40:

gotta be an earth / wiring issue in the dash somewhere!?

do you reckon the headlights will work if i got a hawkeye + turned the alarm system off? iv fitted a battery isolator with removable key as a hardwire back up to the alarm but i like the warm fuzzy feeling a alarm system gives me........
Click to expand...

My first port of call would definately be to re-trace the steps in the dash and pay particular attention to the licghter socket and its wiring.

I don't know if reprogramming the ecu would sort the issue if the alarm module is being back-fed.
 
yeah i had been wondering if it would solve the issue as theres obviously a hardware issue somewhere rather than the ecu software one, plus the alarm ecu isnt really 'off' just inactive as an alarm -the things still wired into the engine so i guess it still needs to run through it to work.

bone question but why is the fag lighter light significant m8?
 
deaftonewonder said:
yeah i had been wondering if it would solve the issue as theres obviously a hardware issue somewhere rather than the ecu software one, plus the alarm ecu isnt really 'off' just inactive as an alarm -the things still wired into the engine so i guess it still needs to run through it to work.

bone question but why is the fag lighter light significant m8?
Click to expand...

From what I gather, you are saying that the problem you are having only materialises when your lights are on. The lights on the dash and the cigarette lighter come on with the headlights. (sorry if the letter g keeps getting missed out on any of my posts. My parrot has managed to get a nut stuck under it:eek:).
 
lol kinda m8, the issue is the lights (head + side) dont come on at all when the switch is made -just the annoying back up alarm sounder going off -not even the full horn + sounder- so the ciggy light doesnt come on at all.

lol i didnt even notice the G's. damn nuts:eek:
 
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