HELP – Replacing DEFENDER Front Half-shaft Oil Seal (inside swivel pin housing)

Before I even start this has anyone got any tips for getting the swivel pin housing-to-axle bolts (double-hex) out? I’m used to using my breaker bar for getting bolts undone on my Defender but this job is down to a ring spanner since there is no room for a socket, and I just cannot seem to get enough leverage to “crack” the locking compound. Once "in" do I need any special tools to get the oil seal out? I've tackled quite a bit - wheel bearings, shocks, starter, radiator, exhaust system and so on - but this new job is daunting me and I've no option but to do it myself.

get a good combination spanner and then using the longest 19mm to 22mm spanner you have hook the ring over the open jaw of the spanner on the hub. and use the extra leverage to undo the bolts. Though I also belt the combo spanner with a lump hammer a couple of time to get the bolt moving before extending it.

Seal will just lever out with a big screwdriver

Gosh that was quick! Thanks Redhand that has really put my mind at rest, I had had this awful feeling that someone was going to say "don't even bother to try!" Thanks again.

Did the swivels on the 90 and they were a piece of **** to do.. just stripped the axles down on RobinT's 300 disco and they were a bastid to do. The bolts had to be forced all the way out even the last half turn was tight. before you put em back together, run a tap thru threaded holes to clean out the threadlock,

As above... unless ye mean the seal inside the stub axle

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/cv-joint-renewal-68945.html

Anybody know the part number for the bolts ?

As it turned out, the swivel ball to axle bolts did not present the problem I had feared and the job went smoothly enough EXCEPT THAT… when I jacked the car up and the weight was taken off the wheel, the gap between the swivel ball face and seal opened up and axle oil gushed out !! What had happened was that the lower swivel pin bearing had collapsed and it was that that had then allowed the drive shaft excess movement which in turn had broken the oil seal to the axle. Why hadn’t I realised that?!! With the car left on the jacks I ordered a Swivel Kit from Paddock Spares and four days later was on the job again. The complete dismantling and then reassembly took me a good day and a half what with cleaning off all the old locktite and all. Two quirky things: first the Swivel kit does not include a lower swivel pin gasket for some reason, although it includes a good set of shims for setting up the top pin. Secondly the kit came with a brand new Top Swivel Pin (but not a bottom one) which I did not need to use since both pins were in perfect condition. That was a good job because the fit between the new top pin and the new bearing was extremely tight (interference) and so was in fact of no use. That is because in the reassembly the fit has to be a smooth running fit to allow you successfully assemble the pin housing and the swivel ball together.
Overall the job is time consuming but straightforward and I am grateful to redhand for giving me the confidence to get on and do it.