Hello Again!

So we got this going,

Engine was removed and we started the conversion on the replacement engine.

For anyone wondering there are a few things for a wasted spark to distributor conversion and I'll probably make a separate thread with a lot more detail but the distributor valve cover MUST be used as the wasted spark one has slightly different layouts that would make it incompatible or at least not as reliable or along those lines.

But in short the conversion was great! Went really well got the engine back together nicely with no issues.

New distributor
New clutch
New pressure plate
New release bearing
New crank pulley
New belts
New spark plugs

Got all the accessories over.
Alternator
Tensioners that weren't replaced
Checked for cracks on the flywheel honestly overall a nice experience started about 12:30 had the engine ready to go in about 3pm

But then that's where we had issues getting the engine in took about 30 mins but then trying to get it to align to the gearbox was IMPOSSIBLE over 5 hours shimmying it this way then way the raise and lower then push and pull, no matter what I tired to clutch would not spline into the clutch... to be sure I've said it yes I've tried turning the crank to align the holes but they won't and now it's really close but won't go in but I cannot turn the crank like its held on but still won't spline in!

Am I missing something? Is it worth dismantling the whole engine bay gearbox ird etc to the be able to shimmy the gearbox onto the engine instead or any other tips? Because I really don't want to do that

Thank you!

How did you centre the friction plate when you fitted the clutch?

Good call above, did you try the plate on the splines before fitting, hopefully you have the correct plate.
Sometimes when you come back to it you can get it to align. Only needs the engine to be half inch too high or low to stop it going in.
Fingers crossed for you

andyfreelandy said:

How did you centre the friction plate when you fitted the clutch?

Click to expand...

Used a clutch alignment tool to get the clutch plate aligned with the pressure plate and bought oem parts so they should fit?

I guess more shoving is needed haha!

Has to be 100% square on.

When I had a problem in the past I measure distance between engine plate and bellhousing, so the gap. It needs to be same all the way around then should push in.

Not too much force and don't put strain on the input shaft of gearbox.

andyfreelandy said:

Has to be 100% square on.

When I had a problem in the past I measure distance between engine plate and bellhousing, so the gap. It needs to be same all the way around then should push in.

Not too much force and don't put strain on the input shaft of gearbox.

Click to expand...

My thought was as i can't see the splines on the Gear box I'm thinking of getting an endoscope then looking through the starter hole to align it correctly. Thoughts?