O2 Sensor Replacement - Freelander 2

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iamSteve

Member
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10
I need to replace the O2 sensor, Bank 1 Sensor 1. I believe this is the sensor just before the CAT (after the manifold).

I have removed the engine undertay to take a look, I can see it but how the hell do you get to it to replace?

I have a 3rd party sensor and a set of various 22mm sockets for sensors, but is it removed from underneath? Its so hidden in the bulk head area!

I am unable to find any YouTube video guides for an FL2 2.2 Deisel on how to remove/replace.

Thanks in advance,
Steve
 
Just to add the issue is poor cold starting and zero BHP below 2000k revs. All 4 Glow Plugs were replaced (old ones worked when tested but were a little slow to heat up (directly on a battery))

After 2000k revs everything fine once the turbo kicks in.

The only code on the scanner is P0030-13 Heated Oxegen sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1

When trying to start and with a lumpy tick over the car produces white smoke and stinks, assuming this is unburnt diesel.
 
If you have long arms, then it's possible to do from below. From above is more tricky, as it's basically impossible to get at unless you remove the EGR assembly.
 
Is this the sensor in the photo
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So from below it is then, thought it would be. WD40 and pray the exhaust does not get damaged.

Assume from the photo it is plugged in on the top?
Guess I can drop a wire from the top to tape the sensor cable to it? Or to use a wire grabber after to get it?
 
So from below it is then, thought it would be. WD40 and pray the exhaust does not get damaged.

Assume from the photo it is plugged in on the top?
Guess I can drop a wire from the top to tape the sensor cable to it? Or to use a wire grabber after to get it?
Yes. The plug is semi-hidden behind the harness at the back of the engine.
You'll need to remove the air intake pipe to see it.
I've ringed the bracket that holds the plug.
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Replaced today but now have a different error.
P0031-11 Permanent Universal heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor heater control circuit low (bank 1, sensor 1).
 
After some more checks today found the 10a fuse was blown. Replaced and o2 sensor faults all cleared.

Still have an issue with starting and zero bhp between 1k and 2k revs then take off once turbo kicks in at 2k, however guess that’s for another thread.
 
After some more checks today found the 10a fuse was blown. Replaced and o2 sensor faults all cleared.

Still have an issue with starting and zero bhp between 1k and 2k revs then take off once turbo kicks in at 2k, so now just this to sort out.
 
After some more checks today found the 10a fuse was blown. Replaced and o2 sensor faults all cleared.

Still have an issue with starting and zero bhp between 1k and 2k revs then take off once turbo kicks in at 2k, so now just this to sort out.
Maybe investigate the crankshaft sensor or it's wiring, or even the throttle body?
 
So to update this thread.

I also started to receive these other error codes from time to time (as attached).

Looks like the EGR also needs a clean. As a test (and will probably stay even after the EGR is removed for cleaning) I installed an EGR blanking plate on the return to the throttle body.

So now the car starts the first time (rather than the 20th!) and the power is restored below 2k revs.

The only issue I have now is from time to time the Engine light is coming on with P1402-00 and P042F-00

Wondering if these will clear once the EGR is cleaned (also assume the only way to clean this is to remove it?)

I assume the EGR Position shown on the photo is feedback? or is it the position demand?

At least its driveable now and very little smoke is coming out of the rear!
 

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There are 2 types of EGR system fitted to the Freelander 2, which type depends on a DPF being fitted or not.
If there's no DPF, then the EGR valve is controlled by a stepper motor, with position feedback to the ECM.
If there's a DPF fitted, the EGR is vacuum actuated, using a vacuum control solenoid.

Looking at your code, I'm guessing yours has the stepper motor EGR system. It's odd it's got a high code, as that would suggest a faulty motor, or damaged wiring.
The value can also stick, which the ECM can determine by motor current being delivered, without the feedback value changing.
It definitely sounds like some sort of EGR issue, which will need investigating. One thing to note is, if the EGR is manually moved or replaced, an air path calibration needs to be carried out, or the ECM won't be able to control its position accurately.
 
There are 2 types of EGR system fitted to the Freelander 2, which type depends on a DPF being fitted or not.
If there's no DPF, then the EGR valve is controlled by a stepper motor, with position feedback to the ECM.
If there's a DPF fitted, the EGR is vacuum actuated, using a vacuum control solenoid.

Looking at your code, I'm guessing yours has the stepper motor EGR system. It's odd it's got a high code, as that would suggest a faulty motor, or damaged wiring.
The value can also stick, which the ECM can determine by motor current being delivered, without the feedback value changing.
It definitely sounds like some sort of EGR issue, which will need investigating. One thing to note is, if the EGR is manually moved or replaced, an air path calibration needs to be carried out, or the ECM won't be able to control its position accurately.
Yes my car does not have the DPF, it’s VIN just shows a CAT with no DFP fitted.

Temporarily if the EGR was unplugged like it would be with EGR delete kit will that keep the engine fault off. (Blank plate fitted)
 
Yes my car does not have the DPF, it’s VIN just shows a CAT with no DFP fitted.

Temporarily if the EGR was unplugged like it would be with EGR delete kit will that keep the engine fault off. (Blank plate fitted)
The ECM will flag a fault if the EGR control stepper is disconnected. Blanking is done with a plate to block the flow of gasses, but the stepper needs to be connected.
I'd strip and clean the valve, and see how it goes.
 
The ECM will flag a fault if the EGR control stepper is disconnected. Blanking is done with a plate to block the flow of gasses, but the stepper needs to be connected.
I'd strip and clean the valve, and see how it goes.
Already fitted the blanking plate to by pass one of the initial problems.

The engine fault light went off yesterday by itself, so maybe the 'inlet' EGR cleaner spray I used and the 30 mile driven has freed off the valve for now? Will clear any remaining codes later this week and see what comes up after that.
 
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