Headlining and dash diming question

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Jerseyp38

Active Member
Posts
240
Thanks for the speedy replies for the oil question so next question(s) for my 95 P38 DT,

Headlining has started coming down does the advice still hold true from searching the threads to order from..... can not remember but car restorertype mail order site? Is it really only a days work? Will I be able to do it myself with occassional help from the Mrs or do I need a permenant second pair of hands?

Secondly the milage display has started to dim on the last three digits, is this serious? What should I be planning for. There is currently no MOT on Jersey so that is not a problem at the moment.

Lastly, engine temp sits at the top of the blue scale, time to chage the viscous coupling?
 
Headlining, one day single handed. Make sure you get fabric wide enough, 152cm? And 2 cans high temp spray. Try www,automobiletrim.com. Others available. Get old glue off totally or you`ll do it twice!
Visc coupling: try putting a rolled up news paper in the blades: when cool this should stop the fan, but won`t when hot. Maybe more likely to be the thermostat failing in the open position. Coupla three quid and an hour of your time to replace.
 
The dimness in your mileage display is probably just one of the bulbs getting old.

They're easy to replace - the instrument panel comes out as a unit and the bulbs are replaced from the back - probly worth doing all of them while you're at it.
 
Did the newpaper test on the vicous coupling and happily chewed up the end of the paper and I though well thats a bit scary! Viscous coupling and fans on ebay are they OK or just look for the coupling or should the fan be changed as well due to age and cost of new radiator?
 
When did you do the paper test with engine hot or cold. With engine cold you should be able to turn fan easily after a few turns it should free off and become very easy to turn. With engine idling cold you should be able to hold fan with your hand by just finger pressure on it. But don't try this with engine warm. You cannot get fan viscous coupling seperate for the diesel.
 
Lastly, engine temp sits at the top of the blue scale, time to chage the viscous coupling?

Needle should be just to the left of 12 oclock on the gauge, are you saying it's staying in the blue section to the left?
If so it's likely to be the thermostat, even a seized coupling on the viscous fan should not make it run that cool on a run.
If you get a new thermostat, check it opens fully in a pan of boiling water before you fit it as there have been a few reports of duff ones:eek:
 
Needle should be just to the left of 12 oclock on the gauge, are you saying it's staying in the blue section to the left?
If so it's likely to be the thermostat, even a seized coupling on the viscous fan should not make it run that cool on a run.
If you get a new thermostat, check it opens fully in a pan of boiling water before you fit it as there have been a few reports of duff ones:eek:

Hi Datatek, yes the needle sits just at the top of the blue. It happened shortly after getting the car to Jersey on the run to the ferry it sat at 12ish, I assumed it was jersey driving but in the UK it stayed pretty much there even on the motorway, maybe climbed a little.
 
Hi Datatek, yes the needle sits just at the top of the blue. It happened shortly after getting the car to Jersey on the run to the ferry it sat at 12ish, I assumed it was jersey driving but in the UK it stayed pretty much there even on the motorway, maybe climbed a little.

Perfect description of a knackered stat. Gauge only rises out of the blue on the motorway on a good steady climb.

Whilst you're doing the stat you might want to think of changing the water pump, lots of reports of the plastic vaned ones breaking up. You might want to take the opportunity to change yours for a metal vaned one. In fact why not go the whole hog and flush the rad while you're at it?
 
Thanks for the suggestion dogsbody, had forgotten about pumps, so will do. Gave the rad a flush when I bought it. Cheers.
 
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