Head tightening sequence - Elring or Haynes?
- Thread starter moth
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
Go by the one in the Land Rover workshop manual which is more specific than just ‘centre out’
I can take a photo of it when I get home from work later if you want?
I can take a photo of it when I get home from work later if you want?
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
THis is the LR workshop manual
Attachments
Flossie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 11,001
- Location
- Shropshire
That's why I suggested in your other thread about getting a helper to point at the next bolt head in the sequence.
It's a lot quicker and saves a bit of head scratching!
The helper can also help to pull the breaker bar on the final stage cos it's hard work, pulled me back once doing it!
It's a lot quicker and saves a bit of head scratching!
The helper can also help to pull the breaker bar on the final stage cos it's hard work, pulled me back once doing it!
dstainton
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 301
- Location
- Fort Saint James Canada
Old-school shop teacher taught me Centre out in spiral. He said because it doesn't set up stresses between bolts which can lead to head warp, or cracking.
Feedback:
So it's together now using the workshop manual sequence. I was working solo so just wrote the sequence numbers on the bolt heads in the end (underline 6 and 9!!). I used a paint pen line right on one hex corner of each bolt radially down across the flange to the head to doubly monitor. I made a simple plastic protractor disc gripped by a rubber friction sleeve on the socket For the pointer I just took a bit of old coolant hose that snugly fits over a valve spring cap and punched an old cafetiere rod through that. The pointer unit can thus be swapped to the most parallax-free position and the rod pulled in and out so it's just shy of the periphery of the disc.
So it's together now using the workshop manual sequence. I was working solo so just wrote the sequence numbers on the bolt heads in the end (underline 6 and 9!!). I used a paint pen line right on one hex corner of each bolt radially down across the flange to the head to doubly monitor. I made a simple plastic protractor disc gripped by a rubber friction sleeve on the socket For the pointer I just took a bit of old coolant hose that snugly fits over a valve spring cap and punched an old cafetiere rod through that. The pointer unit can thus be swapped to the most parallax-free position and the rod pulled in and out so it's just shy of the periphery of the disc.
Similar threads
