Hard clutch pedal 130 Td5

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You're one step ahead of me....lol

I had just done the slave bleed before my son went to school(no one else here today and where I needed him to do the pumping)

So...I'm just finishing a cuppa now and then out I go to get under the LR. This will of course confirm whether it's cast or mild steel...

It's just,as we all know when a Landie is concerned,more often than not,that it's bound to be what we originally thought !!!....
:D

I'll get back in a wee while with other news no doubt...to include how and when I drew knuckle blood...
:rofl:
 
It is not cast - of that I am sure.
If yu decide it is dodgy replace it with an uprated one (or uprate it yoself)

standard....
!BRV!)nQ!Wk~$(KGrHgoH-D8EjlLlyV52BJ9dbPfj4g~~_12.JPG


uprated....
!BlryhW!!mk~$(KGrHqYH-CYEts)V52JLBLcrbMZ-Ig~~_12.JPG


As you can see - it just has a bar welded across the back of it. The usual fault is the pivot point wearing through the arm.
 
I'm tempted to fit a cast clutch fork next i have a few licking about. Need to do some comparisons tho to be sure they are a direct swap or indeed similar. Also on my landy i need to change my slave cos its the wrong one i think from memory it was boxed as RRC so probably wrong diameter. Which would account for a silly high pedal and heavy knee disturbing pedal.
 
yea they are not weak at all. They are between half an inch and an inch thick. With nylon or neoprene wearable inserts for the metal pivot and pushrod so they are superior but not exactly the same from memory the bearing end is a couple of mm shorter and I'm yet to do a full pivot point Drawing/comparison but have heared that you can use them but gives a slightly stiffer pedal. Ooh Errr!! But that is unconfirmed until I can do a propper comparison.
 
Update...phew...

I downloaded a Td5 manual from here
Defender2 - View topic - Defender TD5 Workshop Manual

....and was able to see that the clutch fork is indeed a different one...so I assume cast as had been mentioned both here and another forum...the diagram shows a beefed up one for sure but I don't think it'll change with a normal 300tdi type one..maybe some other inmate can chime in as to that...

...anyway...I took off the slave cylinder and was able to get the piston to move out and in by pedal action which now means it must be something seized/jammed within the bell housing..........

drat drat and double drat...

Looks like we'll have to open her up ......

If any one else can think of something I've missed please don't be shy in pointing it out lol


:)
 
Ohlins said:
Update...phew...

I downloaded a Td5 manual from here
Defender2 - View topic - Defender TD5 Workshop Manual

....and was able to see that the clutch fork is indeed a different one...so I assume cast as had been mentioned both here and another forum...the diagram shows a beefed up one for sure but I don't think it'll change with a normal 300tdi type one..maybe some other inmate can chime in as to that...

...anyway...I took off the slave cylinder and was able to get the piston to move out and in by pedal action which now means it must be something seized/jammed within the bell housing..........

drat drat and double drat...

Looks like we'll have to open her up ......

If any one else can think of something I've missed please don't be shy in pointing it out lol


:)
Click to expand...

Have you got the clutch hot/slipping recently?

I'm just wondering if the clutch plate has shredded and the fibres are building up and jammimg everything up.

Rb20DET+clutch+plate.JPG



IMG_1374.JPG
 
The last clutch has been in for about a year and it has'nt been cooked at any time......

Looks like it'll be an engine out job just to have a peep due to eliminating the other stuff...


aaaagggghhhhh!!!
:D
 
Hi Jason..

The reason was to also do a rear crankshaft seal,get a good look at the fly wheel condition...and at the same time do the fuel regulator....I know it can be done from underneath but if I take a little longer the working conditions may be more conducive ...engine at waist height,clutch plate lined up better with out flaffing about...just that kind of stuff....

What way do you normally do yours and if its from underneath is it an easy enough job to get at???...would you think underneath the better option??


Now I'm in two minds
:doh:
:D
 
Hi

I Always drop the G/box & T/box as one lump useing rachet straps from the chassis.Not the quickest way but find it works the best way for me on mi tod.

Off to drop mine this afternoon so I will let you know how I get on.
 
Clutch has just arrived from paddocks this minute :)

Forgot to say make some studs out of threaded bar to guide the box off and back on to the engine!

I find the hardest part is getting the bloody breather pipes off !

Catch yeh later.
 
Can someone give me a link to a heavy duty/upgraded clutch fork for a D-90 300tdi?

I think I should have one in my spares collection.

Thanks.
 
ratty said:
It's bloody frustrating knowing how much work you have to do just for a fecking clutch fork.
Click to expand...

Kin tell me about it :mad: Would'nt be doing it if the "cock" that changed the clutch last year was'nt such a tight git and only changed the clutch plate.


2 birds with one stone though as I'm changing the transfer box at the same time.
 

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