Handbrake adjustment

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Officerdibble

Member
Posts
75
Location
Northwich
Hi guys I’ve got a 300tdi defender 90 on a 95 plate tried to adjust handbrake as per manual ie chock wheels lift one rear wheel off the floor release handbrake tighten 17mm adjustment bolt to 25 nm then back of 1 & half turns but that was way to far I mean like just half a turn ? Does this mean the cable has stretched, I know the shoes are good as I only changed em two years ago & it’s not my daily drive
 
Hi guys I’ve got a 300tdi defender 90 on a 95 plate tried to adjust handbrake as per manual ie chock wheels lift one rear wheel off the floor release handbrake tighten 17mm adjustment bolt to 25 nm then back of 1 & half turns but that was way to far I mean like just half a turn ? Does this mean the cable has stretched, I know the shoes are good as I only changed em two years ago & it’s not my daily drive

Assuming you adjusted the nut at the handbrake leaver ?? You only need to release a half turn on the drum but you will be able to judge this yourself when you feel the bite on the drum. Is it adjusted all the way up on the cable.
 
There are two adjustment points (as @kevstar said) 1 on the cable/lever and the other on the back of the drum.
The one on the lever can be accessed by removing the cover under the drivers seat, it's behind the lever, I think a 19mm spanner and a pair of mole grips to hold the cable.
The second id the 17mm behind the drum.
Both need you to be able to turn the rear prop shaft and spin the drum so you can feel the brake pads 'bite'.
Both adjustments work, I normally do the cable first and then the brake drum when the cable adjuster is around 1/2 way.
 
There are two adjustment points (as @kevstar said) 1 on the cable/lever and the other on the back of the drum.
The one on the lever can be accessed by removing the cover under the drivers seat, it's behind the lever, I think a 19mm spanner and a pair of mole grips to hold the cable.
The second id the 17mm behind the drum.
Both need you to be able to turn the rear prop shaft and spin the drum so you can feel the brake pads 'bite'.
Both adjustments work, I normally do the cable first and then the brake drum when the cable adjuster is around 1/2 way.
Oh ok didn’t realise there’s another adjustment point at the handbrake lever thanks for the replies, I’ll get back underneath tomorrow and have another go (strange that the manual which is the Land Rover manual, doesn’t mention this?)
 
There are two adjustment points (as @kevstar said) 1 on the cable/lever and the other on the back of the drum.
The one on the lever can be accessed by removing the cover under the drivers seat, it's behind the lever, I think a 19mm spanner and a pair of mole grips to hold the cable.
The second id the 17mm behind the drum.
Both need you to be able to turn the rear prop shaft and spin the drum so you can feel the brake pads 'bite'.
Both adjustments work, I normally do the cable first and then the brake drum when the cable adjuster is around 1/2 way.

Ive got a disc brake conversion on mine tis easier to pressure wash the mud off. :vb-biggrin:
 
I keep looking at those .... then the £435 price tag puts me off as it's £100 more than an Ashcroft AATB (which I haven't bought either)... decisions decisions

Aye they aint cheap, if your going to fit the ATB youd be as well fitting & new crown wheel/pinion/bearings then if youve
went that far youd might as well get it pegged. :vb-biggrin: :vb-biggrin: You still standing 🤣🤣
 
Oh ok didn’t realise there’s another adjustment point at the handbrake lever thanks for the replies, I’ll get back underneath tomorrow and have another go (strange that the manual which is the Land Rover manual, doesn’t mention this?)
Ok so yes there’s an adjustment point under drivers seat , so it’s a lot better but still on the limit of adjustment i.e. having to use fourth click on handbrake to hold truck securely, so possibly new cable in the spring, cheers again for the replies
 
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