Ground up re build of a 300tdi 110 CSW, HELP!

Hi guys and girls, i hope I'm posting this in the right place..

I'm a few months off starting my rebuild now and wanna start getting as much information and inspiration as I can. So I thought best start with what I'm using it for.. I'm a fine furniture builder so I currently use it for moving timber and machinery around, as well as moving furniture to and from shows etc.. I also use it for my band, carrying gear and band members on long distance, fully laden trips all over the uk (the roof rack is a must!) plus the normal commute to work and social etc... once the re build is done I want to use it for overland adventures and a bit of off roading too, but nothing so dangerous I need a roll cage or higher than 2" lift kit... so here's what I have in anticipation for the rebuild which is scheduled for the end of May, and needs to be done start to finish in 3 weeks as it's being done in my mechanic friends garage, Which I know isn't possible so I'm breaking it down into parts that HAVE TO be done when it's in pieces and what can be fitted after such as roof linings, new doors etc

What I have already-
Rachards galvanised chassis with TD5 rear cross member
Plastic TD5 fuel tank (I know I need the sender etc...)
Galvanised bulk head from Ashtree restorations
Galvanised B posts
Mach 5 16" steel wheels
New roof with out the sun roof
New passinger front wing (my friend parked his ford focus 'in' it)

What I know I still need for the first phase-
Paint to re spray the whole lot once it's been broken down (I spray guitars so no big deal doing panels...)
Stainless steel bolt kit for the whole thing (ANYONE HAVE A LIST FOR 110 300TDI? )
All new polybushes
New suspension
Galv turrets and rings
Have Ashcroft rebuild my gear and transfer box
New anti roll bars?
New break lines
New wiring loom?
A fully restored rear tub...this is a sticking point for me, I'm doing the restoration on it but don't know where to start, I've seen the YRM rear tub repair package and all the galvanised cross members but I think I've got rot on the tub benches too so I could do with some pointers on how to repair aluminium or where I can get replacement parts.

What I've had put in the Landy so far-
New sumo bars and steering box
New fuel injection pump
New gas flowed head
New fuel pump
New disks, calipers and pads
New rear shocks
Heated front wind screen

Cheers guys,
Adam

Ahh and I know I need galvanised tub cappings too

Like your ambition...

Will be interesting to see how you get on in completing it in 3 weeks, even if the finishing touches are not done.

One thing is that Stainless steel bolts do not have the same mechanical strength as a normal 8.8 or 10.9 bolt. Make sure where it counts you have the correct bolts.

Good luck.

Cheers

Ok great, yeah the guy who sold me the landy is doing the chassis change and the bulk of the work with his team and I'm doing the less mechanical side like the rear tub and re spray.. yeah I'm I in two minds about stainless steel bolts, the guy doing the classic said he wouldn't bother and just aluminium grease them instead but I also know he's not a meticulous and obsessed on getting it right as I am haha

Not the best pics but I cut all replacement panels out of ally tread plate and had the lips bent by an engineering place with a metal folder.
Pics are 14 yrs old but I would use plain flat plate if I did it again.

Stainless steel bolts are also further away from aluminium on the bi metallic corrosion table thing (can't remember the exact name high school chemistry was a while ago) so they actually corrode your aluminium panels faster than steel bolts. Looks like you have a good start, good luck.

Flossie said:

View attachment 116694 Not the best pics but I cut all replacement panels out of ally tread plate and had the lips bent by an engineering place with a metal folder.
Pics are 14 yrs old but I would use plain flat plate if I did it again.View attachment 116695

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I see, that's really helpful thanks! I guess I need to befriend a metal firm pretty sharpish!, so if you did it again would you go 2 or 3 mm aluminium?

ging360 said:

Stainless steel bolts are also further away from aluminium on the bi metallic corrosion table thing (can't remember the exact name high school chemistry was a while ago) so they actually corrode your aluminium panels faster than steel bolts. Looks like you have a good start, good luck.

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Thanks mate, I shall bare that in mind, tbh just after reading a load on this forum stainless steel is going out the window, maybe I'll just use them on the bulkhead to chassis and the bolts for the gearbox, transfer etc...

I think the other thing to understand is that the tensile strength of stainless steel is less than the normal steel. I have used quite a few stainless where they can be seen because they look so much cleaner than rusty.

I have recently bought my second new front bumper which is three millimetre and not two mil like the first one. When you lift the three mil you really get a sense of difference in value.

If you choose to fit checker plate on front wings and bonnet I would elect for three mil which will allow you to stand on the wing. The two mil will not hold too much weight.

There's clearly too much money in spraying guitars! Your job list is looking impressive but expensive.

If you wan't a good reliable long lasting Defender, use the best you can afford.

Alan Crossley said:

I think the other thing to understand is that the tensile strength of stainless steel is less than the normal steel. I have used quite a few stainless where they can be seen because they look so much cleaner than rusty.

I have recently bought my second new front bumper which is three millimetre and not two mil like the first one. When you lift the three mil you really get a sense of difference in value.

If you choose to fit checker plate on front wings and bonnet I would elect for three mil which will allow you to stand on the wing. The two mil will not hold too much weight.

There's clearly too much money in spraying guitars! Your job list is looking impressive but expensive.

If you wan't a good reliable long lasting Defender, use the best you can afford.

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Great, so where would you suggest using stainless steel? Bumper, rear cross member? Prop shafts? Cheers!

Adam

Adam Rose-Alison said:

Great, so where would you suggest using stainless steel? Bumper, rear cross member? Prop shafts? Cheers!

Adam

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Bumper, door hinges, wiper spindle adapters, all self tappers, floor plates to sill bolts. Hose clips, exhaust hangers, .....

I'm not qualified to answer, but I have used ss pins on the external vent hinges, bonnet hinges and would say that Flossie has most of the others covered.

Adam Rose-Alison said:

I see, that's really helpful thanks! I guess I need to befriend a metal firm pretty sharpish!, so if you did it again would you go 2 or 3 mm aluminium?

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Probably 3mm for the rear floor ,maybe 2mm for everything else.
You will need to reuse the channel braces under the floor, they can be rusted out but are available new. Keep the rubber buffer blocks that fit to the channels for reuse.

Also, in my second pic you'll see that long black steel channel? That bolts on top of the chassis under the 2nd row. They rot out too and are difficult to re new with the body in place. There are 4 brackets that bolt to that, they can rot out too!
Basically, all I had left of my tub that was reused was the outer wings and the tops of the wheel boxes.

Flossie said:

Also, in my second pic you'll see that long black steel channel? That bolts on top of the chassis under the 2nd row. They rot out too and are difficult to re new with the body in place. There are 4 brackets that bolt to that, they can rot out too!
Basically, all I had left of my tub that was reused was the outer wings and the tops of the wheel boxes.

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Ok so I'll get galv under supports and new aluminium 'top hat' supports,... so the brackets on the chassis, what are they called? And get I get galv ones anywhere? I'd be happy to get parts acid dripped and galvanised if the lead time was less then a week haha

Also the outerwings have seen better days..I really don't wanna buy tub wings so is there anyway I can repair them? I thought about backing them with glass fibre then car body filler on the top before I respray it but I'm not sure they'll stand the test of time..ideally my not yet born, not yet even conceived, not yet even got with there mother .. children will still be driving this around once I'm to old to climb into it haha

Depends on where the damage is really.
Tratters tend to suffer lower wing , behind the rear wheel, damage.
A piece of tread plate improves things.

Here's some photos of him in his current state

Front wing will carefully beat out and fill or replace the skin.
Rear OS wing looks good , no holes? Beat and fill.
Rear NS wing, looks like 2 holes?, Make higher tread plate protection for the lower, larger hole? Blind rivit the higher hole ?

You may find rot in the lower parts of the rear light panels too.
These are straight forward to replace, well...I think they are!
They rot mainly around the cross member bolts.