If I do that I will never get them back in intact without breaking them. might try and just work around them.Yer amazon in a spray can next day delivery....
Looked at your pics now pick the beading out the kidney window seals & remove the seals n glass.
Theres a good boy.
Will mask them up best I can and do my best, what are they wood or fibreglass , dont think they are metal.Haha my mate says the same ive done hundreds of windows in boats its easy for me to say.
I have a tool for putting the beads back in too.
I know I am missing some do
Not sure wouldnt know as it was in bits when I got it.
Thank god for that thought Id made another mistake.
Can only try my best, never done this before. Managed to order this, 1 x 2.5 Litres Heat Resistant Etch Primer Paint - Grey. Brush Or Spray On | eBay was only one I could find that was guaranteed to be delivered before weekend. Just hope it does the job.
I would prime as is and then reassess if you need to go any more. I am currently using hammarite special metals primer on mine as an etch primer. I like this because it is red and my top coat is massai red, (by having a red base coat i only need two top coat layers), it is available in homease/B&Q if you run out, and although hammerite is not what it used to be I have happily painted both land rovers using this previously with no issue. That being said it is not a high build primer, my technique is usually sad it down as you have, prime it so it is all an even colour and imperfections show again (see pic three between front window and door pillar) and then re-sand the imperfections before giving it its final primer coat. I am however not going for a concourse finish so I am just looking for smooth enough and no hard edges. i am also applying everything with gloss rollers and quality paint brushed for places a roller cannot reach.
Great Job there Mate.
The prep work is down to personal preference and how much effort you want to put into it. There have been parts where I have taken it back to bare metal but where I can get away with feathering the edges I have done. The 110 pictured I painted about 10 years ago with the same method but am now repainting after the engine fire. The series similarly I have done twice with about a 10 year gap.
Looking good, primer will be thin, especially if it is water based. The grade you sand to depends on how perfect you are looking for the finish to be. I don't sand past 320grit on a mouse sander, I do not bother with wet and dry and do not bother with hand sanding. You should only need to sand the areas that you can still see imperfections after priming, it should not need a full sand between coats unless you are trying to achieve a really high quality perfect finish. An enamel paint will smooth the finish to certain extent but any hard edges or obvious imperfections need dealing with at this stage.
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