Getting Gwen the Mini to Run.
- Thread starter DanClarke
- Start date
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- 16,796
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- Benfleet, Essex
It did indeed runIt did run.
So cant be far off?
Dan can sort this.
J
, but only enough to get it off the transporter on the 9th December and then for <5 minutes two weeks ago before it died and never recovered. So I do believe there cannot be a whole lot wrong with it and what I am trying to do is take it back to some kind of non-boy-racer standard as a fast road mini setup. It is beautiful looking little car with a lot of "quirks" to go with it that all belong in that golden age of BLMC motoring design and manufacture.
I had to laugh today, the bonnet catch failed (wouldn't latch) and in resolving this I found that one of the grille securing screws was so long it was poking through the front deck panel and fouling the bonnet catch so not only was the bonnet release extremely difficult to pull, once opened it could not re-latch because the return spring was not strong enough to pull the release mechanism back past the point of the screw. Such a silly mistake to make and so easily avoided. I put mole-grips on the screw and snapped it off. The latch now works exactly as it should.
I suspect there are many more such little "treasures" lurking to be discovered and enjoyed.
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- 45,645
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- East Dorset
I think you are going to have to take the grille off and leave it off until you have some idea of what is going on.I would agree that an old school "points" solution would be easier to set up.
So, it almost works but I have no real idea which way to turn it CCW or CW. Ha! Ha! This dizzy has the cap screwed in place (not clips) so you have no real clue where the rotor is pointing WRT to the #1 post. To get to see the rotor position you have to pull the dizzy to access the screws (dumb design or what)?
Then you can take the cap off, put the dizzy back on, crank it over and observe the direction of rotation which should be anti-clockwise.
You can then mark on the body of the dizzy where the #1 spark plug connector sits.
The rotor arm needs to get to this point between 5 and 10 degs before TDC. i.e. when the #1 cylinder is at TDC. And to check this take the plug out and stick a long thin screwdriver in to feel it. You won't be able to feel TDC but you'll be able to feel where it seems to stop moving and again where it starts moving. Mark both of these on the crank pulley, TDC is in the middle of these two marks.
So fix the engine in this position, making sure that you can wiggle both rockers.
Then rotate the dizzy until the mark you have made is right under the tip of the rotor arm. That is as close as you'll be able to get to static timing. If your Haynes, or a forum says that static timing is different to this then use that.
Cap back on, screws done up, give it a whirl!!
To advance the timing you move the dizzy clockwise and vice versa. If you set it a little retarded to begin with it might start easier. You won't have to lock it up tightly leave it so you can rotate it with the engine running. Try not to get your hand too near the spark plug leads, a jolt from electronic ignition is quite a jolt! But once you have it running you should be able to use your fancy strobe timing toy!
Best of luck!
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- 45,645
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- East Dorset
Have you worked out whether the HT part of the coil earths via the body of it or not?
I did mention the pink wire being a ballast wire, have a read of this, they can play up and often are not necessary.
www.theminiforum.co.uk
This thread also mentions wiring an electronic dizzy to a coil.
The original BW wire should have been the feed to the old fashioned dizzy, or even the new one.
Do you have a Haynes for a 1275 Mini? It should tell you all this stuff.
I did mention the pink wire being a ballast wire, have a read of this, they can play up and often are not necessary.
Cuts Out Instantly! Help - Problems, Questions and Technical
Cuts Out Instantly! Help - posted in Problems, Questions and Technical: Hey all, changed the head on my mini to a 12g295, tried to start it, it fired up instantly then cut out! If you keep the key in the crank position it will stay running and will rev to 5000rpm but as soon as you release the...
This thread also mentions wiring an electronic dizzy to a coil.
The original BW wire should have been the feed to the old fashioned dizzy, or even the new one.
Do you have a Haynes for a 1275 Mini? It should tell you all this stuff.
- Posts
- 16,796
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
Will have a peruse of the topic you have quoted.Have you worked out whether the HT part of the coil earths via the body of it or not?
I did mention the pink wire being a ballast wire, have a read of this, they can play up and often are not necessary.
Cuts Out Instantly! Help - Problems, Questions and Technical
Cuts Out Instantly! Help - posted in Problems, Questions and Technical: Hey all, changed the head on my mini to a 12g295, tried to start it, it fired up instantly then cut out! If you keep the key in the crank position it will stay running and will rev to 5000rpm but as soon as you release the...
This thread also mentions wiring an electronic dizzy to a coil.
The original BW wire should have been the feed to the old fashioned dizzy, or even the new one.
Do you have a Haynes for a 1275 Mini? It should tell you all this stuff.
Yes, I grabbed a passing Haynes manual from e-bay. It does cover '69 to '96 and mentions all the variants I think.
I bet I have the original Morris 998cc loom into which has been inserted the 1275 A+ engine.
I think it might have used a ballast coil in a previous life (1975 998cc) but right now there is a dedicated (switched live) +12v direct to the +ve of the LT side of the coil.
IF it isn't piddling down tomorrow I am going to try some static timing with a lamp I have cobbled together as you have suggested and go from there.
I do have a fancy strobe (a cheap/fancy one) and once it is running I can switch to that for further timing.
Thanks again for all the help...everyone.
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- 45,645
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- East Dorset
I do hope you are not wasting your time with the static timing lamp. It may well be the case that it cannot be done with electronic ignition.Will have a peruse of the topic you have quoted.
Yes, I grabbed a passing Haynes manual from e-bay. It does cover '69 to '96 and mentions all the variants I think.
I bet I have the original Morris 998cc loom into which has been inserted the 1275 A+ engine.
I think it might have used a ballast coil in a previous life (1975 998cc) but right now there is a dedicated (switched live) +12v direct to the +ve of the LT side of the coil.
IF it isn't piddling down tomorrow I am going to try some static timing with a lamp I have cobbled together as you have suggested and go from there.
I do have a fancy strobe (a cheap/fancy one) and once it is running I can switch to that for further timing.
Thanks again for all the help...everyone.
However there are a few different ways of doing it according to this thread, but it does involve connecting your test lamp differently to the "normal" one.
Setting Static Ignition - Problems, Questions and Technical
Page 1 of 2 - Setting Static Ignition - posted in Problems, Questions and Technical: Ok ive done a bit of research but still cant really find my answer. How exactly are you supposed to set static timing? I have read, that for my 1275 with electronic ignition i should be able to set it at 5...
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- 16,796
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- Benfleet, Essex
Ok, all attempts at static timing were a complete waste of time. Lamps didn't go on/off, Digital Voltmeters displayed no change in state when set to either volts or Ohms.
But, I have passed a major milestone.
It has run.
And at decent revs (2-3k) for a few seconds, then it died.
Here's how it played out.
I got suspicious of the pops, bangs, blow-backs, misfires and general misbehaviour so I persevered and disconnected the battery and shoved long screwdrivers in through the radiator grille and managed to get the cap off while the dizzy was installed.
Yup! As I had suspected although I have the HT leads in exactly the same orientation as per the original dizzy that I have just replaced this one is 180° out of phase. The offset drive-dog on the bottom of the dizzy's shaft which is secured by a roll-pin and can be assembled round either way is in fact at 180° to the old one and not as per the book.
Car has not changed, #1 cylinder is still in the same place, TDC has not been moved but this new dizzy is assembled differently.
I could change it back, but it makes no difference the firing order is still 1342, we are just starting in different spot on the dizzy.
So, after it ran for this brief and glorious short spell further attempts to start it resulted in a "bogging down" of the starter (like it could not turn the engine over). No idea what that could be...yet. Battery is brand-new.
Anyway IT RAN!
Now I need to keep it running.
But, I have passed a major milestone.
It has run.
And at decent revs (2-3k) for a few seconds, then it died. Here's how it played out.
I got suspicious of the pops, bangs, blow-backs, misfires and general misbehaviour so I persevered and disconnected the battery and shoved long screwdrivers in through the radiator grille and managed to get the cap off while the dizzy was installed.
Yup! As I had suspected although I have the HT leads in exactly the same orientation as per the original dizzy that I have just replaced this one is 180° out of phase. The offset drive-dog on the bottom of the dizzy's shaft which is secured by a roll-pin and can be assembled round either way is in fact at 180° to the old one and not as per the book.
Car has not changed, #1 cylinder is still in the same place
, TDC has not been moved but this new dizzy is assembled differently. I could change it back, but it makes no difference the firing order is still 1342, we are just starting in different spot on the dizzy.
So, after it ran for this brief and glorious short spell further attempts to start it resulted in a "bogging down" of the starter (like it could not turn the engine over). No idea what that could be...yet. Battery is brand-new.
Anyway IT RAN!
Now I need to keep it running.
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- The Wooly Witch
Ok, all attempts at static timing were a complete waste of time. Lamps didn't go on/off, Digital Voltmeters displayed no change in state when set to either volts or Ohms.
But, I have passed a major milestone.
It has run.
Here's how it played out.
I got suspicious of the pops, bangs, blow-backs, misfires and general misbehaviour so I persevered and disconnected the battery and shoved long screwdrivers in through the radiator grille and managed to get the cap off while the dizzy was installed.
Yup! As I had suspected although I have the HT leads in exactly the same orientation as per the original dizzy that I have just replaced this one is 180° out of phase. The offset drive-dog on the bottom of the dizzy's shaft which is secured by a roll-pin and can be assembled round either way is in fact at 180° to the old one and not as per the book.
Car has not changed, #1 cylinder is still in the same place
I could change it back, but it makes no difference the firing order is still 1342, we are just starting in different spot on the dizzy.
So, after it ran for this brief and glorious short spell further attempts to start it resulted in a "bogging down" of the starter (like it could not turn the engine over). No idea what that could be...yet. Battery is brand-new.
Anyway IT RAN!
Now I need to keep it running.
Take the plugs out and try again ...
Does the starter dog throw forward and it hasn't the ummfff to turn the engine ?
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- 16,796
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- Benfleet, Essex
It does engage, but it turns over, very slowly like it is fighting itself.
Not allowed any more playtime I am told I must work out how many tiles she needs for the utility room.
Apparently measure it in Sq ft/metres was not the correct answer.
JimS
Well-Known Member
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I guess check the grounds, if you've got a tuned engine / new rings the starter might need every volt to overcome the initial force
I guess you rotated the plug leads to reflect the new dizzy No.1 position
Sounds like you are getting closer though!
I guess you rotated the plug leads to reflect the new dizzy No.1 position
Sounds like you are getting closer though!
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- 16,796
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- Benfleet, Essex
Yes, but all the pain might have been avoided if the 2 dizzy's had had their drive keys set the same way.
Everyone knows #1 is at 1 O'clock on a Mini and that's how the old dizzy was keyed. LOL
Maybe you need to pull the dizzy turn the shaft 180 and refit, Hey presto its the right way, Or is it
.Cos I don't know where number 1 lead Should be on a mini dizzy cap.
But you have got it running(ish) progress
Sounds as if you need to get the battery on charge, you have been doing a lot without any meaningful charge going in.
J
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And check the starter leads are clean, tight and bright ...Maybe you need to pull the dizzy turn the shaft 180 and refit, Hey presto its the right way, Or is it
Cos I don't know where number 1 lead Should be on a mini dizzy cap.
But you have got it running(ish) progress
Sounds as if you need to get the battery on charge, you have been doing a lot without any meaningful charge going in.
J
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- 16,796
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
The starter is VERY bogged down and it doesn't crank very fast at all.
But then, all of a sudden.....
There is no vac advance fitted yet (awaiting the parts).
But then, all of a sudden.....
There is no vac advance fitted yet (awaiting the parts).
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- Benfleet, Essex
Good shout! I just dialed it back about 10° (CCW)and tried again and it started "on the button".
It still doesn't like running without a bit of choke, but we are a million-miles forwards today. At last!
If I can get it to at least "run" I can then put a strobe on it to see what sort of timing we have.
Chasing for the vac-advance plumbing (should have been here 3 days ago).
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- The Wooly Witch
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Try a bit of brake cleaner while it's running. Spray around anywhere you find air could get in. Any doubts on the inlet manifold, cracks or damaged gasket?Good shout! I just dialed it back about 10° (CCW)and tried again and it started "on the button".
It still doesn't like running without a bit of choke, but we are a million-miles forwards today. At last!
If I can get it to at least "run" I can then put a strobe on it to see what sort of timing we have.
Chasing for the vac-advance plumbing (should have been here 3 days ago).
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- Sud ouest France !
Does it have an electric fuel pump to boost starting?
