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Sadly, the previous dizzy was also of the "non-point" variety so reverting back to it (where we started from with it not running/firing) will probably not help at this point.I am beginning to wonder if someone fitted an electric anti-theft device, like I did, which shorted ignition to earth until a microswitch was switched.
Have you tried earthing the coil direct to the batt or the engine or an earthing point?
I know we talked about whether it earthed via the body of the coil or through the earth connection on the cap end.
Personally I'd go back to the old dizzy simply to put power through it, get someone to crank the engine and look at the points to see when you get a spark there. (Hoping I am remembering correctly and it IS a points dizzy.) Not connecting it to anything else apart from the LT part of the coil.
So checking you get +ve 12 volts at the + ve connector to the coil, and that comes out the other connector, i.e. the - ve which goes to the dizzy.
If so, then check you have got +at the dizzy, i.e. that the connecting wire is not bust. If this is so then you should get (tiny) sparks at the points each time the points open, which you can test by opening them with a screwdriver.
Then check that the coil still has resistance within the range across the central big connector and whatever it uses for negative. If this is OK, then you can measure the resistance of the king lead to see if that is intact as well.
If so, connect the king lead to the coil and flick the points as you were doing, to open them and close them, while holding the king lead connector, dizzy end, near to an earth point on the engine. If this give you a fat spark at the end of the king lead then, so far-so good. If not it may mean that the coil is fubar.
Being optimistic, if you get a spark, then you need to check the rotor arm is OK. and the connections to it. Connect the king lead to the dizzy cap and check continuity again between the terminal inside the cap and the king lead.
So pop the rotor arm and cap on, connect any spark plug lead (having checked it for resistance/continuity) to a point on the cap and hold the other end close to an engine earth point, and spin the engine with ignition on. You should get a spark each time the rotor gets into position next to its terminal in the cap. If not, the spring in the cap under the king lead could be too weak, (I have had this happen) or there may be a crack in the rotor arm's brass strip, which you can check by measuring it for continuity from the contact point where the king lead's connector touches it, to the end of the brass rotor where the spark jump's the gap from. This crack can be invisible. Again I've had this. And it may not be obvious until the rotor arm is supposed to be doing its job.
Being "positive" if this all works as it should you can then go back to playing with timing.
Don't forget that once the engine is running (vacuum disconnected) the timing will be much more advanced than the static. And even more with the vacuum connected.
Just realised I haven't mentioned setting the gap at the points. This can be a real barsteward, and for me is the main advantage of having electronic ignition. Even with a dwell meter you have to tweak the gap by just a tiny amount and of course everything, like the spring on the points, is fighting against you. But a thou on the points is a degree on the timing, so it needs to be as right as you can get it. BUT, you can set it off the car, either with feeler gauges, it is SO much easier to do this with the dizzy mounted in a vice, AND you can check the dwell angle by using a meter or a bulb and measuring, through marks made on the rim of the dizzy body and a protractor, or some maths using pi. This way is surprisingly accurate but you won't read about it in books and stuff!
But if the gap isn't right doing all the rest is a bit "pointless".
Best of luck mate!
I do appreciate all of the advice & guidance being showered upon me, and when the weather improves (may not be any time soon) I shall continue in my attempts to get her running. I will call the provider of the new dizzy tomorrow because their web-help is not helping. Maybe I can get some sense out of them.
Strangely they have a "No Spark" section but it all relates to their solid-state contact point replacement systems and not what I have. But it may contain some clues.
