Gearbox fault?

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synchro said:
U got a petrol? Mines a 97dse
Got all nuts of bbut holy shid that plastic cover is so stuck inbetween the hose :mad:

tried prying for 30mins!!
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Mines 2001 diesel.
Maybe someone has routed the hose wrong in the past.
Nothing goes smooth for you does it?o_O.
Maybe you could slacken off the hose fittings and rotate the hose a bit and retighten? That might be quicker than taking the alternator off?
Knowing your luck though the hose would probably snap off:rolleyes:
 
Flossie said:
Mines 2001 diesel.
Maybe someone has routed the hose wrong in the past.
Nothing goes smooth for you does it?o_O.
Maybe you could slacken off the hose fittings and rotate the hose a bit and retighten? That might be quicker than taking the alternator off?
Knowing your luck though the hose would probably snap off:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Remember he is in Norway so the steering box pipes will be there as a left hooker
 
brianp38dse said:
Remember he is in Norway so the steering box pipes will be there as a left hooker
Click to expand...
Yup, thats the issue. I watched work on p38 videos for a long time now. He actually had a video on this, sadly no photage ripping out the cover.. Anyhow, made it work now!

I assume its this high voltage as the batterys quite low. (12.3volts before starting up)
 

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synchro said:
Yup, thats the issue. I watched work on p38 videos for a long time now. He actually had a video on this, sadly no photage ripping out the cover.. Anyhow, made it work now!

I assume its this high voltage as the batterys quite low. (12.3volts before starting up)
Click to expand...

Could well be as your battery is very low that or your meter is a little out.
 
After a 30min run, i came back to the garage.
Parked it all up and then it started idling worser than before. You could see the interior light dim up and down as the rpm went from 700-750. Also have this weird noise when turning off the engine, more noticeable now :eek: Abit like a squeech, i assume this is the pulleys stopping up as the engine turns off? My belts are new, so is my idler pulleys..

The car have also been out of timing for a while. (timing modulation) and have been slight more and more troublesome at idle, i assume its just the timing which makes the rpm go brrr? :confused:

The car did however drive lovely, dunno why but felt i had some more power, as the power steering has become abit lighter aswell... My nanocom now reads a higher voltage. Goes from 12.6-13.6. Previously it was at 11.6 :confused:
Its worth noting that when my car had this bad idle (just now) the voltage fluctuated between 15.1-15.6

It was a nice drive atleast... Can't wait for my new fusebox to arrive. Smells electrics :rolleyes: I am hoping that the fusebox replacement will indeed fix my coolant temp gauge stop fluctuating like a F1 car. I've had tips that it might be a dry solder in the instrument panel going bad during driving, but i dont know. its worth knowing my red warning light is on all the time now.

But i do think the voltage regulator gave me some more juice, as when i brake now, my hvac screen wont dim as before... i just hope a new fusebox will fix my electrical gremlins and also will get someone to time my fip towards the easter. as its cold now...

My nanocom screen was brighter and more responsive than before aswell :D

i have btw not taken on the alternator cover. I guess this is needed if i don't want it to short it accidentaly one time?
 
and no, @Flossie nothing goes smooth with me. Not even the air filter as i ordered the wrong the first time :D Changed engine oil and filter- broke the socket thingy on the top of the filter cover.

Actually, the only thing which has gone smooth is diff oil, that was a fairly easy job.

Last time i was at a tire shop, refitted my tires due to air leakage. They used an air impact obviously.

2-3 weeks later snow came and i realised the winter tires sucked anyhow, and still leaked air, so got new (used) rims and new winter tires for 1000pounds. nokian hakka 10 btw.

I could almost not get the bolts off due to the workshop using their air impact to infinite torque... I am shocked if several tire business's just use an air impact and torque them to infinity...
I do have another tire shop tho, and their very, very good.

It's almost as the tireshops are doing it on purpose, so when the owner tries to undo them him/her self their just stuck on and just quits trying and just rolls it to the shop instead. For me thats an evil move.

I even used a long, 1meter lazyarm to undo the wheel bolts, and i barely got them loose. I am not the strongest, but i am not at all weak. I bet if one would meassure the torque they've done thoose nuts it would've been 2-4 times the newtons, as the 108newtons you do on the p38, are fairly easy to undo.
I also tried to use my impact. Nope. So had to use the lazy arm.
Note, the tires were on the car for 2-3 weeks. I've previously taken them off and on and then they've been easy.

The voltage regulator would've been a walk in the park if it wasnt for that plastic cover. The hose i managed to pry abit away, as work on p38 suggested in his video. Was just abit stuck at first.
 
Datatek said:
Left hand drive, you will have to take the alternator off:(
Click to expand...

I did manage to pull it off :) Just broke off a little piece, but that ain't too bad. Will need to cut a small slot in it, as the only problem is the power steering hose being way to close.

Haven't taken it back on tho.

I feel so stupid to not take advantage of the air suspension! i haven't lowered the suspension whilst working in the engine room. But it would certaintly help to lower it to Access mode.
 
synchro said:
I did manage to pull it off :) Just broke off a little piece, but that ain't too bad. Will need to cut a small slot in it, as the only problem is the power steering hose being way to close.

Haven't taken it back on tho.
Click to expand...
Sounds like hard work, I just pulled the alternator off and did the regulator on the bench where I could see what I was doing.
 
Datatek said:
Sounds like hard work, I just pulled the alternator off and did the regulator on the bench where I could see what I was doing.
Click to expand...
It was indeed abit hard.

Used 2-3 hours on it. Even had to fix my spanner first as it had rusted stuck. So that took some time aswell..

The regulator itself was quite easy to replace. 2 nuts, and 1 screw. 3 nuts for the plastic cover and 2 for the wire connectors.
The old regulator did seem to be OK, i dont know how the brushes wear down, but i suppose they just become shorter? as their spring loaded and just grinds on the rotor? I am not sure, but they were in good condition.
Just low voltage.

I am abit afraid however on why its sat 15.5-15.6 volts
 
synchro said:
It was indeed abit hard.

Used 2-3 hours on it. Even had to fix my spanner first as it had rusted stuck. So that took some time aswell..

The regulator itself was quite easy to replace. 2 nuts, and 1 screw. 3 nuts for the plastic cover and 2 for the wire connectors.
The old regulator did seem to be OK, i dont know how the brushes wear down, but i suppose they just become shorter? as their spring loaded and just grinds on the rotor? I am not sure, but they were in good condition.
Just low voltage.

I am abit afraid however on why its sat 15.5-15.6 volts
Click to expand...
That might be because the battery is in a low state of charge, the voltage should drop back gradually. How quickly will depend on the battery state. Certainly the voltage should not stay that high for more than say 20/30 minutes.
Various bad connections can also cause high voltage.
 
I put it on a charger, battery should be full to the brim tmw with my 15amp charger.
I took on my lamps etc, whilst engine off to remove the surface charge etc, waited some hours and it looks like its at 12.6 volts. So it must have charged the battery some on the trip. Yay :rolleyes:

Im gonna put on the cover on the alternator tmw. Hopefully also do a gear oil change, couldnt be bothered today as that regulator was some pain due to the cover and hose…

However, i would have saved time by just undoing the alternator, so on my next projects i will just go the easy way instead of gambling if it will barely work or work.
If i have enough oil i’ll do transfer box aswell. That shouldnt be harder than replacing diff oil! Might postpone it if i need a washer tho :)

i really want my fusebox now so i can get that done aswell! Im pretty sure that might be the issue on some of my cases.
also must aquire a new earth cable, slightly corroded itself behind the ecm box it seems (type white, not green.

and if my fusebox aint fixing my temp gauge, im ripping out the speedo and will check its contacts.


Is it true that the BECM limits engine power when it reaches 98C? (My nanocom says it gives coolant warning then) just wondering if it might be a cable/contact on the becm then.
 
synchro said:
I put it on a charger, battery should be full to the brim tmw with my 15amp charger.
I took on my lamps etc, whilst engine off to remove the surface charge etc, waited some hours and it looks like its at 12.6 volts. So it must have charged the battery some on the trip. Yay :rolleyes:

Im gonna put on the cover on the alternator tmw. Hopefully also do a gear oil change, couldnt be bothered today as that regulator was some pain due to the cover and hose…

However, i would have saved time by just undoing the alternator, so on my next projects i will just go the easy way instead of gambling if it will barely work or work.
If i have enough oil i’ll do transfer box aswell. That shouldnt be harder than replacing diff oil! Might postpone it if i need a washer tho :)

i really want my fusebox now so i can get that done aswell! Im pretty sure that might be the issue on some of my cases.
also must aquire a new earth cable, slightly corroded itself behind the ecm box it seems (type white, not green.

and if my fusebox aint fixing my temp gauge, im ripping out the speedo and will check its contacts.


Is it true that the BECM limits engine power when it reaches 98C? (My nanocom says it gives coolant warning then) just wondering if it might be a cable/contact on the becm then.
Click to expand...
The BECM does not limit engine power, the EDC does, but not at 98C, not even at 105C on mine. It has to go over 105C to go into overheat limp mode.
 
Ok, cheers. Gonna tackle the gear oil now.

Sad to say, but i am thinking my harmonic balancer is going out soon. I believe this is my thud squeech sound when taking the engine off.
Its gotten worse now by the winter. I suppose temperature changed did the rubber bad?

went from 10c, to -7c to now again 8c.

Seems like an expensive part, but if it helps loose some idle vibration and also the thud… and last but not least, keep the engine in good shape…

worth noting that my ac pulley is grinding badly. Sounds like, no bearing in it. Not the worlds worst issue, ill take ac belt off to make sure its not that bearing squeeching whilst stopping for its dear life

Gotta eat some then run out to the garage and just get that oil changed. Hopefully enough for transfercase also
 
synchro said:
Ok, cheers. Gonna tackle the gear oil now.

Sad to say, but i am thinking my harmonic balancer is going out soon. I believe this is my thud squeech sound when taking the engine off.
Its gotten worse now by the winter. I suppose temperature changed did the rubber bad?

went from 10c, to -7c to now again 8c.

Seems like an expensive part, but if it helps loose some idle vibration and also the thud… and last but not least, keep the engine in good shape…

Gotta eat some then run out to the garage and just get that oil changed. Hopefully enough for transfercase also
Click to expand...
The vibration damper is a fairly common failure item, cheaper from BMW the Land Rover I believe.
 
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