Gearbox fault?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
It charged the battery yesterday during my trip. at 15.2-15.7 volts (battery was 12.4 volts at startup)
Then i parked it in the garage, took it on my batterycharger for 4-5 hours, came back today with 12.4 volts
I can see corrosion greenish/white from battery to chassis. no voltage drop from standstill or idle touching other grounds.

Chassis to rocker cover seems fine.

I was mistaken thinking battery went straigth to rocker cover, it was a trap which has lured me.

It goes from battery to a bracket, which then has another cable ontop of it which goes to rocker cover (the one who looks fine)
Battery to earth cable is not fine.


BUT, it charged yesterday.

I don't know if my electronics has taken damage from yesterdays charge off 15.2-15,7 volts?
no usual smells, just the fusebox being electric smelly... Craddocks still not shipped it, as their out of stock, tho their page says their not :)

When i took the battery charger on, i do positive first, (straigth to the battery clamp) and then minus.
did not take off any cables from battery, is that necessary?

I have charged batterys several times before, same methods.

And the only thing i've touched today is the gear box sump and changed filter and fluid.
abit of a let down, as i wanted to try how the beast gears now with some new fluid, filter and lucas. :(
 
synchro said:
It charged the battery yesterday during my trip. at 15.2-15.7 volts (battery was 12.4 volts at startup)
Then i parked it in the garage, took it on my batterycharger for 4-5 hours, came back today with 12.4 volts
I can see corrosion greenish/white from battery to chassis. no voltage drop from standstill or idle touching other grounds.

Chassis to rocker cover seems fine.

I was mistaken thinking battery went straigth to rocker cover, it was a trap which has lured me.

It goes from battery to a bracket, which then has another cable ontop of it which goes to rocker cover (the one who looks fine)
Battery to earth cable is not fine.


BUT, it charged yesterday.

I don't know if my electronics has taken damage from yesterdays charge off 15.2-15,7 volts?
no usual smells, just the fusebox being electric smelly... Craddocks still not shipped it, as their out of stock, tho their page says their not :)

When i took the battery charger on, i do positive first, (straigth to the battery clamp) and then minus.
did not take off any cables from battery, is that necessary?

I have charged batterys several times before, same methods.

And the only thing i've touched today is the gear box sump and changed filter and fluid.
abit of a let down, as i wanted to try how the beast gears now with some new fluid, filter and lucas. :(
Click to expand...

Did you remove it from the car to charge it ?
 
When you first turn on the ignition, does the red battery light on the dash illuminate?
The high voltage you had can be an indication of a bad connection. If you have jump leads, first put a lead from the alternator case to battery negative and see what happens. If no change, put a lead from the alternator output to battery positive and see what happens.
 
The battery light does not come on.

i did however got a alternator fault message in the dash just now (ignition 1) not engine on.
 
i am coooooooonfused.
I have 12.3 volts on battery and airbag fault in display, that is not normal. Airbag fault usually comes if its under 12... (ignition 1)

I've checked that the fusebox has same voltage as the battery.

I almost, always get a bigger issue whenever i fix something else.
Guess im just making it worse..

I put the battery on charger again, just so that is said.

Actually,
Did you say that the normal charging rate from factory is 13.6 volts @Datatek ?
as my old charged 14.2-3 volts. which is .6-7 volts difference, and my new regulator usually on startup sits on 15.5, and slowly crawls down to 15.2, then up again... (but its the 14.7volt regulator) Abit up and down with it.. Now 12 volts tho..

I suppose theese readings indicates i have a bad connection? as you've said i probably have @Datatek
In that case they have the same, "to much" reading.

well im gonna do my best and try to get some cables for tomorrow. so sad the near warehouse is sold out :(

I find it quite odd it just stopped charging tho. i havent moved the cables any since yesterday. only done the gearbox filter and fluid change.

heres how awful my filter looked btw, u can see i took some off.
 

Attachments

  • 74FAE449-4986-4E8F-A884-1D1BD832C3E8.jpeg
    74FAE449-4986-4E8F-A884-1D1BD832C3E8.jpeg
    360.7 KB · Views: 109
synchro said:
i am coooooooonfused.
I have 12.3 volts on battery and airbag fault in display, that is not normal. Airbag fault usually comes if its under 12... (ignition 1)

I've checked that the fusebox has same voltage as the battery.

I almost, always get a bigger issue whenever i fix something else.
Guess im just making it worse..

I put the battery on charger again, just so that is said.

Actually,
Did you say that the normal charging rate from factory is 13.6 volts @Datatek ?
as my old charged 14.2-3 volts. which is .6-7 volts difference, and my new regulator usually on startup sits on 15.5, and slowly crawls down to 15.2, then up again... (but its the 14.7volt regulator) Abit up and down with it.. Now 12 volts tho..

I suppose theese readings indicates i have a bad connection? as you've said i probably have @Datatek
In that case they have the same, "to much" reading.

well im gonna do my best and try to get some cables for tomorrow. so sad the near warehouse is sold out :(

I find it quite odd it just stopped charging tho. i havent moved the cables any since yesterday. only done the gearbox filter and fluid change.

heres how awful my filter looked btw, u can see i took some off.
Click to expand...
If the battery light on the dash does not illuminate, then there is either a bad connection as I said before, or the new regulator has failed.
I reckon your English is better than my French:(
 
Datatek said:
If the battery light on the dash does not illuminate, then there is either a bad connection as I said before, or the new regulator has failed.
I reckon your English is better than my French:(
Click to expand...

hmm, old regulator did atleast charge it some, but idk… With the old regulator i could drive, but abit low volts on the battery, and becm and rest of system..

Why would it just brake like that then? Is it not odd, that it worked the night before?

Also, as i described earlier, had 12.44 ish volts friday afternoon, then goes down to 12.22 by monday.
Thats to rapid voltage drop is it not? As i have a 1000cca 110ah battery.

i can use my multimeter at the back of the alternator yes, (on big wire, not small) and that will be alternator volt output yes? If im correct alternatoe is grounded to engine, engine is grounded to same bracket as battery ground. I only know that battery to ground is irred abit where isolation is open.

i am going to swap back to old regulator, and see if it will charge. However its odd my voltage dropped earlier before anyhow. Shouldnt drop as much as it is.

my aftermarket stereo shouldnt be problem as amplifier has remote, and is off when radios off
 
Last edited:
synchro said:
hmm, old regulator did atleast charge it some, but idk… With the old regulator i could drive, but abit low volts on the battery, and becm and rest of system..

Why would it just brake like that then? Is it not odd, that it worked the night before?

Also, as i described earlier, had 12.44 ish volts friday afternoon, then goes down to 12.22 by monday.
Thats to rapid voltage drop is it not? As i have a 1000cca 110ah battery.

i can use my multimeter at the back of the alternator yes, (on big wire, not small) and that will be alternator volt output yes? If im correct alternatoe is grounded to engine, engine is grounded to same bracket as battery ground. I only know that battery to ground is irred abit where isolation is open.

i am going to swap back to old regulator, and see if it will charge. However its odd my voltage dropped earlier before anyhow. Shouldnt drop as much as it is.

my aftermarket stereo shouldnt be problem as amplifier has remote, and is off when radios off
Click to expand...
There should be a heavy earth strap from engine to chassis underneath in the region of the starter motor, it is a know failure item.
A bad earth connection can damage the regulator and the diode pack.
 
Datatek said:
There should be a heavy earth strap from engine to chassis underneath in the region of the starter motor, it is a know failure item.
A bad earth connection can damage the regulator and the diode pack.
Click to expand...


That one sounds interesting to check.
as when i lowered the sump, the dipstick pipe also followed and i probably smacked it around :D

that does really sound as what has happend, i’ll check that one out when back from work cheers :)

Weird i can start the car tho if i were to miss that earth.
 
oof, took a nice size of cardboard and layed under the sump yesterday, to see if it drips. obviously it does that :oops: It seems to have dripped atleast 30-40 drops.

The only good news i can bring right now is that my battery is at 12.8volts. Guess im gonna disconnect the negative on battery and refit the old voltage regulator and see if it gives powah..
I did not succsedin finding the big heavy earth cable @Datatek, i only saw a tiny black one from starter which goes into a sleeve with another cable.
Is the earth cable sleeved or a plain isolated, standard earth cable?
I would say the "earth" from starter motor which i saw, was atleast 6-8mm. Not a heavy earth for me there.

Do you have a picture of this earth @Datatek
actually holy guacamole i did spill some gearoil at the chassis yesterday, before firing the car up. under dipstick area, idk if that could affect an earth cable :D

Planning to go out and fight the voltage regulator soon..
I am quite ****ed about that sump leaking..
I tight'nd them up real good. and gasket is seated nicely, it had a nice slot in it, so i suppose its not that easy messing it up.
it's leaking from the rear, where that odd bolt close to the crossmember is.
I smeared the gasket in with gearoil before seating, is that a bad thing to do? :confused:
It is the correct gasket, perfect fitment on sump.

Had a hard monday, work..... I prefer doing car repairs at week'ends but can't wait for the weekend :eek:

and geez i wish the garage was isolated...
I can feel for thoose who dosnt have a roof over their car and needs to fix stuff on it tho...
 
well, spank me and call me daddy :eek:

was a lose nut at the voltage regulator :D WHOO UNDID THAT?

probably the engine vibrating the shid out of it :D It charged at 14.5-6 volts steady, note battery was at 12.8 volts, i took ignition on 2-3 times and battery terminals off twice and it magically cleared my airbag and srs fault :cool:

now i just have aprox 250-350ml of gearoil to much in the box. I question myself why. Since my first meassurement, no joke was right inbetween the min and max marks, my stupid ass told myself, nah no way i just filled 5 liters of gearoil and its full, and i just poured half a liter back in and woop now its 2-3 cm above max mark :eek:


I tough it took 7 liters, and yes i know theres some fluid in the converter.
Anyhow, voltage issue fixed, geez :D
thanks for all helpz people!
i am probably going to undo the sump slightly and try to get some fluid out, if not do some tricks trough dipstick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ar1g3
P38A Stall speed monitoring gearbox fault
2 3 4
Replies
64
Views
6K
ar1g3
ar1g3
V
Range a rover P38 Gearbox power solenoid fault
2 3
Replies
44
Views
4K
Datatek
Datatek
B
L322 Range Rover l322 gearbox issue
2
Replies
24
Views
4K
rich28uk
rich28uk
S
L322 SC Electrical Issues. Terrain control, Handbrake
Replies
0
Views
339
spitfire
S
K
2005 L322 Transfer Failsafe (3 year problem, still unsolved).
Replies
8
Views
1K
Bemble
B
Back
Top