Gear selector rods

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duncanpage4

duncanpage4

Active Member
Posts
455
Location
East Sussex
Having recently changed my clutch and flywheel I'm now struggling with a floppy gear lever. It has always been loose and I replaced the rear rubber block with a poly one for the PG1 gearbox. But the linkages at the front where it connects to the gearbox are different.
I went to Land Rover in Lewis and they said they don't supply the rubber bushes that have worn on the linkages they only supply the 3 linkage rods. All together that would cost £249!!!!!

Can anyone recommend a cheaper way to replace the rubber bushes and tighten up the loose gear lever?
6e9eqyru.jpg
 
hi there

i have the same prob with my gear linkage ,all floppy :-(

i have a 2002 td4 , been looking and looking as my td4 is not a pg1 box :-( but still not sure what it is lol

looking at your pic ,and what im thinking of doing to mine is chopping the ball/cup and rubbers off ,then fitting a rose joint in its place ,that should do the job and in future would be much easier to change if needed and would make gear change feel all tight again

its just a idea im sure people will say if its a bad idea lol

griff
 
A Rose joint might work or measure the worn bushes, then contact one of the suppliers of Polyurethane bushes giving them the measurements. You never know, they may well have something that would work.
 
Look closer towards the gearbox and you will find a joint that's supposed to have a little more nylon on it that it does have. That was my culprit on my td4. I put it on my to do list about 6 months ago but haven't got round to it yet
 
Thanks for the suggestions.
The orange poly bush was from the PG1 kit but the rest of the bushes were different as mine is the Getrag.
Will have a look at the other joints and see if I can find some newer bushes.
 
I have the exact same issue on my TD4, but same as you I can only seem to find solutions for the PG1 box. If you manage to find a solution for yours could you please let me know as I would be most interested!
 
I may have found something related to the problem!
042bff22b2aa3d2ff41e24cbd6c2890f.jpg
518a89fabbddd9d0ac77f8b580bde790.jpg
85daf1b3c28e7e135b02d69d5bab5cdd.jpg

I removed this part from the car today and noticed the tip looks very worn.
There is a lot of movement in the gear selector rods before it's even started to move the gear change selector shaft quadrant (as the Rave disc calls it).
Is it supposed to have a cam shape to it or is it supposed to be round?
 
Hi everyone.
If anyones interested I can confirm that the funny shaped thing at the end is the cause of the wobbly gear lever.
Having cut it off, drilled out the hole and replaced with a hardened steel metal punch which I then cut down to the size of the original height, the gear lever is much tighter and changes gear beautifully. Clearly its not as tight as a modern Audi or similar but it is a 100% improvement on how it used to be.
Don't bother replacing the gear selector rods. I spent £125 replacing the two short rods and it made no difference whatsoever.
 
I'm reviving this thread to ask the same question as xpuser8334. Also, how did you fix the punch to the quadrant?
 
xpuser8334 said:
I know this is an old thread.... but...
did you replace the funny shaped thing with a round pin, or did you shape the pin similar to above???
Click to expand...
DefenderPilot said:
I'm reviving this thread to ask the same question as xpuser8334. Also, how did you fix the punch to the quadrant?
Click to expand...

From Duncan's post, it seems that this is exactly what he did: cut off that peg and replaced with fresh metal. I wonder whether you could use a high-tensile bolt, but a length of hardened steel dowel would probably be better.
 
Yes, but it's unclear how the new metal was fixed to the quadrant. Welded? Interference fit in the hole he drilled? Or what?
 
I've not got around to doing it yet.... the other half has no car, so she is using it to commute...
hopefully, this year will see the Hippo going into my freshly built garage (if the council allow me to build the flaming thing)
My idea was to take the thing off... use a high tensile steel bolt, weld it in the hole and grind the back so it's flush - as I can't think of a way to get an interference fit without a hydraulic press of some description.
I will keep following this thread though, as friends and Colleagues on the freelander owners club on Facebook are undoubtedly going to ask the same question at some point.
 
Hi peeps I did a quick search for hardened steel metal punch as stated above and it appears the majority come square shaped so could only assume it stays that way just trimmed to correct hieght maybe. I also would like to know as I have a sloppy stick lol
 
I've heard of people knocking the mishapen pin out and actually using the smooth part of drill bit, and welding it in place - and grinding it smooth.
 
oh I'm looking into solving same problem. question is. Is it supposed to be round or should it have a flat side from new?
 
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