Gear selection problems

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

The Flying Penguin

New Member
Posts
12
Hello all,

I did post a thread to this a week or so ago, but i thought i would do another one as i have just discovered something else.
The problem i had was that i could not select any gears at all, it just would not move away from the neutral path.
By the way it is TD5 1999 Manual with 130,000 miles.

The clutch, thrust bearing and plate were all replaced less than 10,000 miles ago.
What i have just discovered is that with the engine off the gears can be selected fine, if i leave it in gear, depress the clutch and turn the engine over it lurches as if the clutch is engaged.
Someone has suggested to me it is the slave cylinder that has a "little fork" that pops through a membrane, or something to that affect.
Is this something that could be tackled by me, a reasonable novice mechanic?
Your thoughts please would be much appreciated.

Regards , Colin
 
Try bleeding system again failing that, could be sleeve cylinder or master cylinder. If you are competant both easy to fit. Get a haynes manual from halfords and it has step by step guide to replacing and bleeding.
 
Someone has suggested to me it is the slave cylinder that has a "little fork" that pops through a membrane, or something to that affect.
Regards , Colin

Yes - there is a clutch release fork, no membrane just thin metal that pivots on a pin. Google "land rover clutch release fork" and look at the images, if you look closely you will see a small round indent - most fitted are just pressed steel and will eventually wear through and the fork can no longer pivot and bye bye clutch. Cost for part - under a £10 - it should really be done everytime the clutch is done - when I have it all in pieces it's getting EVERYTHING. Fork, release bearing, spigot bush, cover and driven plate should really all be done when the lot is stripped down.

I would first check that the hydraulics are working, first check the master for any signs of leakage and check that their is fluid in the master, then check the slave (down on the gearbox bell housing, small cylinder with oval flange with a pipe going into it and a bleed nipple) for leaks around the unions etc, is there any sign of fluid coming out the bottom of the engine, bellhousing?

Also check the damper (should be fitted to yours) this is on the clutch line just above cylinder - again check for leaks.

Next I would sugest you withdraw the slave - it is on a flexipipe so the pipework can remain connected - be careful when you remove this as there is a pin which is clipped to the fork - you want that to stay there (it can be diffucult to fit it back in if it falls out). Torch and mirror would be handy now, have a look into the bellhousing where the metal rod that went into the slave goes that is one end of the fork, look up that about 4 inches (you may need mirror can't remember if you can see it or not) and look at the middle, does it look like the pivot rod has broken through, is there twisted metal and holes? Does the fork swing about and appear to have no resistance? Then it's probably the fork.

If not, then it's probably going to be hydraulics. Take the little rubber cap off the slave and get a small piece of wood. With the cap off you can see the piston - have someone press the clutch a small amount, I repeat small, while you push the piston back as hard as you can, have them increase the pressure on the clutch untill you feel the piston start trying to push the wood out, watching the piston have your clutcher keep pushing while you hold the wood until the piston is about 1cm from the end of the cylinder - if it manages all that I would say that the hyraulics are OK and it may be broken clutch cover - do you know if this was done when your clutch was done or did they just do the plate?

Anyway - if it is the fork then it will need the gearbox/engine split and a new fork fitted, as said part is cheap, 4 hours in labour though!
 
Aye well OK.

New question:

Is there any brake/clutch fluid leaking (smells like brake and clutch fluid).

Oil I would expect - my pavement likes a new coating everytime I pull up!
 
Back
Top